>> Halston Bides Time Until Marios Schwab With Perfume-Inspired Spring 2010 Collection — Marios Schwab's first Halston collection doesn't turn up until next season — for Fall 2010 — so the Halston design team of eight whipped up a collection inspired by the brand's perfume bottle (Olivier Theyskens used a similar idea with Nina Ricci's L’air du temps bottle when he was still at the label). Two of the fragrance's top notes, Lavender and Poppy, inspired the color palette, and Dree Hemingway popped by the presentation today. [Style.com, Heard on the Runway, J. Logan Horne Twitter]

>> Lars Nilsson Said to Have Found a Designing Home —After tempestuous stints as creative director at Nina Ricci and Gianfranco Ferre, respectively, Lars Nilsson was supposedly one of the finalists for the Halston job.  Marios Schwab ended up scoring the gig, and now, it's speculated that Nilsson is finalizing a deal for a signature menswear line with Italian manufacturer Mabro-Antichi Telai.  The line doesn't yet have a name, but is expected in time for Pitti Uomo in Florence next Spring. [WWD]

>> INSIDER WIRE —Marios Schwab was just named the new creative director at Halston, but apparently it's not the first job he's been in the running for: "This was my second or third time in talks with a house, and we’re living in such a weird time, I was skeptical that the Halston people would go with a relatively young, relatively conceptual designer." [Style File]

>> Marios Schwab's appointment to head up Halston just came two days ago, and already he's feeling the gravity that comes with a major fashion post: "Of course I feel the pressure. It's a huge challenge but fashion at the moment needs innovation. . . I'm just trying to be humble and see a nice challenge. It's going to take time."

But at the same time, he's excited: "It's a dream - to bring your creative force to a different brand. I love Halston. We share a very similar frame of simplicity and elegance as well as the technical approach. I've been an admirer for a long time."

While Halston will definitely be a priority for Schwab, it sounds like he values the ability to have his hands in two different pots. "I would be hesitant to do just one thing — it's important to be able to create and be open-minded." And despite moving to New York for Halston, he "hope[s]" to continue showing Marios Schwab in London. "I wish for London to support me. I love the thought of having two fashion metropolises. London is amazing inspiration and New York is an interesting place to be — it's important what comes out of them."

>> Marios Schwab is moving to New York to take over at Halston.  His impending appointment as creative director was suggested back in March, but now it's official.  He starts July 1, and his first collection for the label will be for the Fall 2010 season next February.  He plans to continue designing his eponymous label.  

In fact, it was the Spring 2009 designs for his own label that caught the attention of Halston execs. “He used a lot of jersey in the collection in a very modern way,” Halston CEO Bonnie Takhar said. “The silhouettes were also very fluid, and we thought they had a very modern Halston interpretation.”

As for Marios, he's already got big ideas for the brand:

While Halston’s DNA is crucial to its future success, I very much wish to move the brand forward and make it relevant for today.  Simple, effortless pieces realized via modern [fabrics] and technology will play a large role in how I will redefine the brand. The clothes will echo the heritage but with a very distinctive, modern feel that is completely new and completely now.

>> Despite the supposed lobbying of Anna Wintour herself, Olivier Theyskens won't be taking a post stateside — not at Halston, anyway.

Fashion Week Daily reports that the brand has no immediate plans to hire Theyskens, citing a "well-placed source" with knowledge of Halston's creative director search: "Olivier [as creative director at Halston] will never, ever happen.  It's no secret that [the brand] is struggling — they need a designer who can sell lots and lots of clothes, not just get great press."

Great press but not-so-great sales describes Theyskens in a nutshell with regards to his past two posts at Nina Ricci and Rochas, but maybe Schiaparelli or his own label will work out?  As for Halston, so far the label has allegedly approached several European designers — including Marios Schwab — as well as Narciso Rodriguez for the creative director role, but it sounds like none have panned out so far.
*image: source

>> After a manicure yesterday and another round of rumors about his future placement, Olivier Theyskens turned up on the Costume Institute gala red carpet with Lou Doillon in Nina Ricci on his arm.  So what does he have to say about the possibility of an Anna Wintour-orchestrated takeover at Halston? “Oh God. These are rumors.”  When further prodded, he started laughing: "These rumors — I have to live with that.”  But there's no outright denial, it just sounds like he's still weighing his options. “Oh, this I don’t know. Really. It’s really something I don’t know.”

Down the way, Andre Leon Talley — who is usually outspoken about who he wants to work with for the red carpet (this time around he was in pursuit of Marisa Tomei), but after a very public misstep or two, he seems to have reconsidered on stamping his name on specific looks: "I gave a lot of advice to a lot of people, but they shall remain nameless because they don’t want me to say who I’m giving advice to."  Does that mean Anna Wintour doesn't want him connected as a stylist to certain looks?  Or that the people he dressed didn't want to be connected with him?

>> INSIDER WIRE —Olivier Theyskens has been spotted around New York — earlier today he even went in for a manicure — but details are still swirling about where he'll land professionally. Will it be Schiaparelli?  Will it be Halston? Will he end up with his own line?  The latest is that Anna Wintour wants him in New York — to keep him close under her watchful eye, no doubt — and Halston seems to be her placement of choice.  The brand has also looked at Narciso Rodriguez and Marios Schwab for the creative director position. [WWD]
*image: source

>> Halston is still looking for a creative director — talks with Roland Mouret didn't pan out, and Marios Schwab was said to be under consideration early last month, but Halston CEO Bonnie Takhar wouldn't confirm anything.  Now, rumors from Paris thrust newly-orphaned Olivier Theyskens onto the forefront of the search, which seems an odd match to say the least — an American sportswear brand and a Belgian designer known for making costly, romantic gowns.

But Anna Wintour definitely has setting up Olivier's future on her to-do list, and what better way to keep tabs on his well-being than bringing him stateside for a post?  And if Harvey Weinstein still wants to make Halston "the first American global luxury brand, an American LVMH," like he did in 2007, bringing in a closely-watched designer with a French design pedigree could definitely be a good start.
*image: source

>> An in-house team has produced the last two Halston collection since Marco Zanini left, but the search is still on for a creative director.  Sources say that young London talent Marios Schwab might be the man — he's apparently been in talks with the brand — but Bonnie Takhar, Halston CEO, wouldn't confirm anything. “We have been looking at all options in the market, but we have made no decisions.”

If Schwab were to take the job, would he be required to shutter his eponymous label?  Increasingly, brands are looking for devoted creative directors who don't have to split time between labels; in fact, a lot of brands are digging up designers who have never helmed a label before: Vionnet just hired Prada alum Rodolfo Paglialunga, Nina Ricci is supposedly going with Louis Vuitton-trained Peter Copping, Valentino recently promoted accessory designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, and Chloe decided on alum Hannah MacGibbon.

Hiring designers: it's not what it used to be »