fashionologie

This Week's Best Dressed

fashionologie — Fri, 18 Nov 2011 17:34:06 PST

>> It's a week of double-timers: two Haider Ackermann looks, two Calvin Klein looks, and one model who appears twice. See who's wearing what - and where - in the slideshow.

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Report - Marc Jacobs Could Be Headed to Dior and Phoebe Philo to Louis Vuitton

fashionologie — Mon, 22 Aug 2011 07:14:24 PDT

>> A couple of weeks after rumors popped up suggesting that Marc Jacobs was at the top of the pack to take over as Dior's new designer, reports corroborate that the rumors just might be true.

According to WWD, Bernard Arnault is in talks with Jacobs about moving from Louis Vuitton to Dior, and meetings have reportedly been scheduled in Paris this week between Dior officials and legal representatives for Jacobs. Jacobs, who signed on as Vuitton's artistic director in 1997, has been in the midst of renewing his employment contract at Vuitton, but those discussions are said to have been put on hold, pending the outcome of Jacobs's discussions with Dior.

One source cautioned WWD that deal with Jacobs is not done, but both the designer and Dior management are so far "excited" about the prospect. If the deal goes through, Jacobs will get his first opportunity as a couturier, and his business partner Robert Duffy would come with him. Dior declined to comment on the reports, and Jacobs could not be reached for comment.

As for who would replace Jacobs at Vuitton, it sounds like Phoebe Philo could be first in line. LVMH has already reportedly held preliminary discussions with Philo, who is said to be "intrigued" by the project. If the shuffling plays out, it's reportedly likely she would design Vuitton in addition to Celine.

WWD reports that a number of potential candidates have been approached to succeed John Galliano, who exited Dior in March, including Alber Elbaz, Nicolas Ghesquière, Sarah Burton, Haider Ackermann and Hedi Slimane. Elbaz and Ghesquiere, who both have equity stakes in and strong commitments to the houses they design for, have withdrawn themselves from the running, and Burton is said to have rebuffed overtures. Talks with Ackermann and Slimane, meanwhile, did not end in an agreement. As for Riccardo Tisci, he is still considered a dark-horse candidate, and has been championed by Delphine Arnault, Dior deputy managing director and Bernard Arnault's daughter.

Tilda Swinton Works With a Creative Director for Her Red Carpet Looks Instead of a Stylist

fashionologie — Tue, 12 Jul 2011 10:11:00 PDT

>> Tilda Swinton has played muse for Viktor & Rolf and Haider Ackermann - she met both, as well as Alber Elbaz, Stefano Pilati, Phoebe Philo, and Raf Simons (who designed her wardrobe for the 2010 film I Am Love) - through her close friend Jerry Stafford, the creative director of a French production company, who she works with in place of a stylist. “He’s my playmate,” she says. “It’s a game, and we have great fun with it.”

Swinton cites David Bowie and her father, Major General Sir John Swinton, as her style icons, and says of working with friends on what she wears for the red carpet: “For someone to know what you need to make you comfortable, they need to know who you are. Having them make clothes for me is like being cooked for by someone who knows what you like to eat.”

For the one-sleeve black Lanvin sheath she wore to the 2008 Oscars, for instance, she told Elbaz she wanted “to attract as little attention as possible and to feel as comfortable as if I were wearing pajamas. Little did I know that the really simple, chic dress one might have worn in Paris or Berlin would stick out like a sore thumb in Los Angeles.”

Stafford also creative directed Swinton's cover story for the August 2011 issue of W (left) - together they created a mood board for the shoot.

Lara Stone Covers Vogue Paris August, Still Repping for Calvin Klein

fashionologie — Tue, 12 Jul 2011 08:54:49 PDT

>> Lara Stone graces Emmanuelle Alt's fourth Vogue Paris cover - Alt has yet to feature anyone other than a model on one of her covers - for August 2011, wearing Fall 2011 Haider Ackermann in a cinematic shot. A peek at Stone's new Calvin Klein Collection campaign for Fall 2011 also just came out, which means that despite her recent stint for Tom Ford, her exclusive contract for the brand must still be going strong.

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Lara Stone, Penelope Cruz, Natalia Vodianova and More Pop Up on the 2011 Cannes Film Festival Red Carpet

fashionologie — Mon, 16 May 2011 08:33:43 PDT

>> The first couple of days of the Cannes Film Festival brought us appearances by the likes of Karolina Kurkova, Diane Kruger, and Alexa Chung; with the weekend past, Natalia Vodianova and Lara Stone have joined the fun in Calvin Klein, Tilda Swinton brought out a Haider Ackermann look, and more than a couple of Chanel couture looks hit the red carpet. All that and more in the slideshow.

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Karl Lagerfeld on Cutting His Hair, Christophe Decarnin, and Who He'd Like to See at Dior

fashionologie — Mon, 25 Apr 2011 13:29:38 PDT

>> Karl Lagerfeld has never been one to hold verbal punches, and his recent conversation with W - in which he tells us how he really feels about Christophe Decarnin, explains why he doesn't use computers, and vouches for which designers he would like to see at Dior - is no exception.

A few highlights, below.

On whether he'll ever cut his hair: "No, because I’m afraid it won’t grow again. And I’m not very gifted for hairdos. This is the quickest thing in the world. It takes less than five seconds. I have someone who comes to the house and washes it, puts in the dry shampoo, and takes care of it because I have no time. I don’t even have time to go to the dentist. I’m busy but in a pleasant way. I’m the one who wanted to do all of it, so I can’t complain."

On who he wants to see take over at Givenchy: "Well I’m not a consultant there, but I think Riccardo Tisci would be good, and then Haider Ackermann at Givenchy - not because they are friends of mine, but because they are good."

And if he still wants Haider Ackermann to take over at Chanel: "Not especially. It’s not his world I don’t think."

His thoughts on Christophe Decarnin leaving Balmain: "Forget about it! This was a job done by a fashion editor. I don’t even know the name of the man who did it, so don’t ask me about that."

On why he doesn't use a computer and instead communicates by fax: "It’s very easy to explain: For me, sketching and writing are the same thing. I like to write. It’s a physical thing - I hate to be without paper and pencil in hand. And I write like a talk. I can put my way of talking on the paper exactly the same way. The machines they tried to make where you write directly on computers are not perfect. The minute they’re perfect, I will use them."

The one thing he doesn't like women to wear: "I’m not mad for thongs."

On whether he takes vacations: "I’m not an employee who goes to the office every morning at the same time. Then, vacations are not needed. I’m like a rock singer with one-night stands on the road. I’m here for two days in New York; I leave in the morning early. I come back for Anna Wintour’s party at the Met, then again at the end of May for a prize I get from the Gordon Parks Foundation. I’m lucky that I can do all these things in the best conditions. I don’t have to struggle for that. I don’t have to discuss budgets. I don’t do meetings. At Chanel, there are no meetings. At Chanel, we do what we want, whenever we want and it works. And Fendi is the same."

On not eating or craving sugar: "I like chocolate. I don’t eat it, but I like the smell of it. People can drink with their eyes; I can eat with my nose. I would love to have a perfume based on chocolate."

Riccardo Tisci Reportedly Lobbying for Dior Job; Plus, the Other Designers on LVMH's Short List

fashionologie — Tue, 19 Apr 2011 12:08:17 PDT

>> LVMH is taking its time with the announcement of Dior's new designer, and it sounds like the decision still has yet to be made. At a recent shareholders' meeting, Bernard Arnault said the plan was to interview a number of candidates before making the call when "conviction" arrives.

But who's reportedly on the short list of candidates Bernard Arnault's advisors have submitted? Tom Ford, Hedi Slimane, Olivier Theyskens, Nicholas Ghesquiere, Alber Elbaz, Haider Ackermann, Prabal Gurung, and Sarah Burton. However, a source in Paris told WWD that LVMH is placing less importance on marquee names and focusing rather on “someone who understands Dior and fits the needs of the company.”

While Arnault, chairman of the board at Dior, is sure to get the final say on the appointee, Dior CEO Sidney Toledano, who has helmed the company since 1998, and Delphine Arnault (Bernard's daughter), deputing managing director at Dior and widely viewed as the eventual LVMH heir apparent, are also expected to weigh in. Apparently Dior execs are also receiving unsolicited designer suggestions from top editors and even shareholders.

Delphine, for her part, is seen as a champion of Riccardo Tisci; the Givenchy designer has reportedly been lobbying for the position as well, sketching out his vision for the brand. Bernard Arnault, meanwhile, is reportedly transfixed by royalty, and if Sarah Burton does dress Kate Middleton for her wedding at the end of the month (despite Burton's and the McQueen company's denials), she may pull ahead in the race. Arnault would be keen to launch the new Dior alongside the newly-married couple; Princess Diana, after all, helped catapult the brand's image in 1995 when she wore a Lady Dior bag and then in 1996 when she wore a midnight blue, bias-cut Dior gown by John Galliano to the Costume Institute Gala.

In the meantime, design duties are falling on Dior's in-house design studios, headed by Bill Gaytten, who has worked beside Galliano since the '80s. They're already creating the Cruise 2012 collection and have started in on the upcoming Fall 2011 couture collection, in preparation for its debut in July.

Haider Ackermann Had a "Very Good" Fashion Week, Thanks to the Dior Rumors

fashionologie — Tue, 15 Mar 2011 08:47:04 PDT

>> After Haider Ackermann's name was thrown into the ring of potential Dior designers on March 1, his phone started ringing non-stop, according to Katou Brandsma, who represents the designer. "When everything went mad, he locked himself in his showroom and turned off his BlackBerry. I believe it's still off now," Brandsma said, almost two weeks after. "It was a very bizarre fashion week, but a very good one for us. Everyone was congratulating us. We had buyers from shops, like Barneys in New York, we've been waiting for 10 years to turn up to our shows. Our designs stood out because everyone else - apart from McQueen - was so boring." [Guardian UK]

Is Haider Ackermann Ready to Take on Designing for a Major House? Some Think He's "Unprepared"

fashionologie — Wed, 09 Mar 2011 10:05:19 PST

>> In recent years, Haider Ackermann's name has been thrown around as a potential successor for Martin Margiela, Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, John Galliano at Christian Dior, and Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy. But is he prepared for a leap to a major design house? A couple of years ago when he was offered the Margiela job, Ackermann's backer seemed to question just that - she says she asked him, "But can you cope with a big house? Here it is very protective. If you scream, I am there to support you." He didn't take the Margiela position. And of Ackermann attending Chanel's show yesterday, Cathy Horyn writes, "[His] arrival drew notice. Designers are often invited to shows, but Mr. Ackermann is being mentioned as a possible choice for Dior. This suggestion completely flies in the face of the realities of big brands, and instead of dealing with the issue of pressures within these companies, it serves to throw another unprepared designer into that situation." [NY Times]

Haider Ackermann's Backer Would "Support Him" If He Designed for Another Label

fashionologie — Tue, 08 Mar 2011 12:57:56 PST

>> Haider Ackermann admitted Sunday that there are houses he'd like to design for - his name, coincidentally, has been thrown into the ring for the Dior job - and the backer for his signature label, Anne Chapelle, confirmed that he's contractually free to work elsewhere: “I would be very proud and would continue to support him and be a mentor in the mind.” But, she notes, when Ackermann was asked to take over at Martin Margiela after the designer left, “I said to Haider: ‘Do you understand the Margiela woman? If the answer is positive, I have no objection. But can you cope with a big house? Here it is very protective. If you scream, I am there to support you.'” [WWD, IHT]