fashionologie

fashionologie — Fri, 17 Sep 2010 07:50:32 PDT

>> Grazia Coming to America? -They already have editions in Britain, Australia, Germany, France, Italy, and even Bulgaria. Now Grazia, the weekly magazine that's half gossip and half fashion, is reportedly gathering troops to make a bid for the American market. A source within the company says: "They're very interested in America, and they've been putting serious research into getting an American edition ready to go. It's closer than you think."

Fashion in 50 Seconds 01/25/10 Mr. By Roland Mouret, Grazia Displeased with View Through Tavi's Hat

coutorture — Mon, 25 Jan 2010 09:25:18 PST

Roand Mouret presents his first menswear collection of 15 looks in an intimate setting where the focus was on the details.

At Dior Grazia editors were "not pleased to be watching couture through 13-year-old Tavi's hat." This twitter image is labeled "Dior through Tavi's pesky hat."

The best and worst of January fashion magazines.

Paulo Borges, one of the organizers of Sao Paulo Fashion Week, voices concern over emaciated models on the runway.

The Row launches a website with e-commerce to come with the fall 2010 delivery.

Isaac Mizrahi, Rachel Roy, Justin Giunta, Lorraine Schwartz, Alexis Bittar, Monica Botkier, Deborah Lloyd of Kate Spade, Albertus Swanepoel and Devi Kroell accessorize Barbie with diamonds, jewels and furs as part of CFDA initiative.

Quote Of The Day: Raquel Zimmermann on Being One of Vogue's Best Dressed

PopSugar — Tue, 23 Jun 2009 13:00:00 PDT

“

"That was such a surprise and I'm very flattered. I asked them why, though! I didn't understand why they chose me but they said it's because I have my own style and I then I realized it's true. I don't dress to please anyone else, just me."

”"Sao Paulo Fashion Week Exclusive: Raquel Zimmermann talks Brazilians", Grazia

Karl Lagerfeld Has Landed in Venice, Others Soon to Follow

fashionologie — Tue, 12 May 2009 13:00:54 PDT

>> The Chanel Cruise 2010 show is coming up this Thursday, and already people are in a packing panic. Style.com's Derek Blasberg tweets, "What does one wear to dinner with Karl on the Lido in Venice? WHAT? High collar? Heels? Ponytail? Wait, am I a tranny?" Grazia's style director Paula Reed is also preparing for takeoff. But Karl Lagerfeld, who made a quick stop-off yesterday at his Saint Tropez villa Ramatuelle for a Purple Fashion shoot with his new muse Baptiste Gianiconi, has already arrived in Venice, Goyard travel cases in tow, and brought Olivier Zahm along to document it all - including the Chanel logo-ed motorboat taxi that was waiting for them.
*image: source

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fashionologie — Fri, 20 Mar 2009 12:01:32 PDT

>> INSIDER WIRE -Steven Meisel isn't the only one currently obsessed with the It Brits - Grazia is shooting today with a number of London designers, and apparently Jonathan Saunders wanted Pixie Geldof to model for Pollini, but it didn't happen because her father wanted her to concentrate on her exams, instead. Christopher Kane was also at the shoot and revealed he's a "massive" Gossip Girl and The City fan, and "does an amazing American accent." [Grazia Twitter, Grazia Twitter, Grazia Twitter]
*image: source

Kate Moss: No Longer a Best-Dressed List Fixture?

fashionologie — Tue, 12 Aug 2008 17:03:40 PDT

»Kate Moss has been dropped entirely from Grazia's best-dressed list, Agyness Deyn fills the No. 1 slot [The Cut]

»Alek Wek's 16-year-old niece Atuai is making a go at modeling [Of the Minute]

»Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are enjoying their vacation, for sure; Katy Perry has been tapped to play the D&G after party in Milan [TMZ, Chic Report]

»Fashion mag assistants augment their low salaries by "stalling to steal" [Style File]

»Alexander Wang loves his Cheap Mondays [Refinery29]

»Naomi Campbell, still vacationing with that billionaire boyfriend of hers [PopSugar UK]

»Diane von Furstenberg: designer, CFDA president, travel writer [Fashionista]

»Simon Doonan adores Tilda Swinton, so does W [Washingtonian, W]

»Barneys Warehouse Sale starts Thursday [Racked]

»Cult fave Mischen is showing for the first time at New York Fashion Week [The Cut]

»Vogue scribe Plum Sykes is developing a comedy for NBC [Variety]

»Bottega Veneta's motto in the '70s was "When Your Own Initials Are Enough" [Vanity Fair]
*image: bauer-griffin online

Gareth Pugh for Topshop: The Collection That Could Have Been, But Won't Be

fashionologie — Mon, 11 Aug 2008 15:33:13 PDT

»Gareth Pugh was asked to do a range for Topshop, but turned it down because he "hate[s] the idea of being in Grazia" [Dazed Digital]

»Roberto Cavalli compares models to "pieces of wood" [The Cut]

»Vanessa Traina appears out and about in Balmain boots with Nicole Richie [PopSugar]

»Karl Lagerfeld, dressed in white with blue striped bib, and Amanda Harlech, spotted in Saint Tropez [Jezebel]

»Did Ralph Lauren's Olympic opening ceremony uniforms embarrass America? [Gawker]

»A recent Bill Blass alum is about to go solo [Style File]

»Anna Selezneva is the Spring 2009 girl to watch [TI]

»Charlotte Ronson, re-imagined as Eli Cash from The Royal Tenenbaums [FabSugar]

»Rodarte among finalists for prestigious Swiss Textiles Award [FWD]

»According to Richie Rich, Heatherette is just taking a breather [The Cut]
*image: source

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli On Why They Don't Design "Editorial" Clothes for Valentino

fashionologie — Wed, 11 May 2011 12:49:32 PDT

>> Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri admit that designing for Valentino in tandem "isn’t easy," but they do agree on the general goal for the brand: "I have to say, with this [most recent Valentino] collection, the idea from the very beginning was not to do 'editorial' things just for the sake of it. Because in recent years, the image of fashion has prevailed over traditional fashion, meaning sartorial detailing and workmanship. But fashion designing means creating something using a special technique that might not emerge in a photo, but when you look at it up close, you see that it’s stylish. That’s a cultural problem. Clearly we live in a time where image is more important than content." Piccioli adds: "It’s as if fashion looks at the women who wear it as less valid. Well, if I want to do something artistic, then I’ll make an art installation." [Interview]

Valentino Designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli "Loved" Working with Fired Designer Alessandra Facchinetti

fashionologie — Mon, 06 Dec 2010 11:50:24 PST

>> According to Valentino CEO Stefano Sassi, if the brand's numbers stay strong through Christmas, it will be in the black again for the first time since the London-based private equity group Permira bought it in 2007.

When Sassi joined the company in 2006, to say that the company was without structure or fiscal discipline is an understatement, he told WSJ. Of Giancarlo Giammetti, Valentino Garavani's longtime business partner, Sassi said: "He is a fox, but also he was dangerous. He was a great communicator and he created an exclusive image, but if you compare what Armani was doing at the same age, now he was an entrepreneur.”

When Garavani retired in 2008, he had for years been only putting effort into the couture collection and the ready-to-wear runway shows. An accessories line - which now accounts for half the brand’s total revenue - didn't exist until 2000, and he left others to the pre-collections, which now make up 75 percent of sales.

When Alessandra Facchinetti took over after Garavani's retirement, she was critically acclaimed, but Sassi says that only 28 percent of her Fall 2008 collection sold at full price. And: “She was interested in one variable. We had 25 variables. And the more the critics talked about her genius, the less she listened [to management].”

Current Valentino creative directors, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, were the brand's accessories designers at the time and say they didn't angle to take the head job after Garavani's retirement. “We loved working with [Facchinetti],” Chiuri told WSJ.

But they took over after Facchinetti was fired at the end of 2008 and have brought a younger slant to the brand: their runway shows are mostly day wear, as opposed to Garavani's mostly evening wear. And they've brought positive momentum to the brand: sales were up 10 percent for the first six months of 2010, and store traffic is up 15 percent.

As for Garavani, who attended the most recent show in October and gave a standing ovation? Sassi says his presence is a mixed blessing: “Yes, you want the founder’s approval, but you also want to show that you are forging your own way. Do you want people to think he is OK with the things you’re doing? Yes. But do you want them to think that it is business as usual? I’m not sure.”

Valentino Spring 2012 Couture

Christina Perez — Fri, 27 Jan 2012 04:37:59 PST

>> Valentino designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli went soft and lovely for Spring 2012, tapping the romance of the Age of Enlightenment and the innocence of Marie Antoinette's Petit Trianon for a couture collection rife with delicateness - or as they put it, "deep lightness." For day, there were softly swishing knee-length dresses with ruffled necks and sheer sleeves; for evening, full-length strapless or long-sleeved gowns in heavy silk and taffeta - some embellished with crystals and pearls, and others printed with antique-looking florals and toile.

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