fashionologie

Kate Moss Turns 38, Giles Deacon Creates iPad Prints, and Tommy Ton Snaps Pitti Uomo

Christina Perez — Mon, 16 Jan 2012 07:25:36 PST

>> Today's stories and more - here, in our daily news roundup.

Kate Moss turns 38: A look at the supermodel's best bad-girl moments
[Stylecaster]

Peek inside a Teen Vogue editor's New York apartment [Refinery29]

Moda Operandi’s founder talks strategy, Taylor Tomasi Hill, and average transaction price per customer
[Fashionista]

Giles Deacon on his new iPad prints [Elle]

Alberta Ferretti: semi-celebrity meets demi-couture
[Telegraph]

Tommy Ton's street style: the photographer hits Pitti Uomo [GQ]

Grace Coddington, Scarlet Woman: former husband Willie Christie unveils his intimate portraits of Vogue’s creative director [Nowness]

French swimwear line Tooshie teams with A.P.C. for capsule collection [T Magazine]

Target's new design collaboration thinks local, ships national [Racked]

Emanuel Ungaro Is Moving Ahead Without a Head Designer, Instead Relying on a Team

fashionologie — Thu, 29 Sep 2011 12:41:25 PDT

>> After cutting ties with Giles Deacon earlier this month - Deacon signed a four-year contract last year, but produced a black, dominatrix-inspired collection (left) when management wanted a more heritage-driven line - Ungaro is moving ahead, deliberately without a head designer.

Emanuel Ungaro chief executive Jeffry Aronsson, who joined the company in June, says he will instead rely on the label's team of 35 employees, including some who worked under Ungaro himself. "I'm not looking for a big name from the outside, because I don't want the development of the brand to be dependent on a big ego." He hasn't yet figured out who will take the runway bow, and adds: "I don't believe in overnight sensations. My goal is to revitalize the company in a sustainable way, not a flash in the pan."

Ungaro is no longer carried in any major American department store, and even several of the shelves in the Ungaro store downstairs from the label's offices in Paris are bare. Aronsson says he plans to woo retailers back; however, even if it takes a few seasons, by focusing on tops, loungewear like caftans, and capitalizing on silks and prints. "I want the retailers to see this, that it's a whole new page," he says of the upcoming Ungaro show.

Giles Deacon, Emanuel Ungaro Part Ways

fashionologie — Thu, 15 Sep 2011 07:34:16 PDT

>> Emanuel Ungaro and Giles Deacon have "mutually decided" to end their collaboration, they announced. Deacon joined Ungaro in May 2010 and produced two collections for the house; it is understood that the upcoming Spring 2012 collection, meanwhile, will reflect the work of the design team.

"Emanuel Ungaro embodies a very rich and distinct DNA which the company will deliver with a modern spirit," Ungaro CEO Jeffry Aronsson said in a statement. "The creative process for executing our strategy is largely in place and I will comment on this further at the appropriate time."

Aronsson was in attendance at Prabal Gurung's show last week; although he said at the time he was checking out talent for his consulting business, not Ungaro, that statement doesn't seem as convincing in light of Deacon's departure.

Giles Deacon for Nine West Is Now Available

fashionologie — Thu, 11 Aug 2011 13:07:19 PDT

>> The nine-piece capsule line of shoes, bags, and jewelry that Giles Deacon did for Nine West has just hit online and select Nine West stores. The collection - which runs $26 to $149 - has a couple of black leather-and-suede strappy shoes more in line with Deacon's fetishistic Fall 2011 collection, plus pieces featuring the bug-eyed creature Eek, which Deacon has placed sweaters and blouses in his previous collections.

Giles Fall 2011

fashionologie — Tue, 22 Feb 2011 07:41:54 PST

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Sophie Theallet, Giles Deacon to Collaborate with Nine West

fashionologie — Mon, 24 Jan 2011 10:16:21 PST

>> Nine West, which previously collaborated with Vivienne Westwood, Thakoon, and Sophia Kokosalaki in 2006, is kicking off a new collaborative initiative, "Shoelaborations," which will involve working with up-and-coming designers, artists and musicians. First up? Sophie Theallet and Giles Deacon.

The Sophie Theallet for Nine West collection includes "fresh and feminine" shoes, accessories, and handbags, and hits stores May 1. “For the collection I designed my own stripe print, which you will see interpreted on a ballet flat, a raffia wedge and a double platform sandal. I also designed little straw bags with charms representing icons of France,” Theallet explained. Prices are expected to run $79 for flats up to $109 for the platform espadrille sandal.

Deacon's collection, meanwhile, is slated for Fall 2011. Nine West is already in talks for its 2012 partnerships, but declined to give any more details.

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Phoebe Philo, Lara Stone Take Top Prizes at 2010 British Fashion Awards

fashionologie — Tue, 07 Dec 2010 14:14:29 PST

>> Phoebe Philo took this year's top prize - Designer of the Year - tonight at the British Fashion Awards over fellow nominees Erdem Moralioglu and Christopher Kane, while Lara Stone won the battle of the pretty faces, scoring Model of the Year over David Gandy and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley.

Popular vote determined Alexa Chung winner of the British Style Award, recognizing "an individual who embodies the spirit of London and is an international ambassador for London as a leading creative fashion capital.” And Sarah Burton - who designed two dresses for Special Recognition awardee Naomi Campbell (for a 25 year-long career) to choose from for the festivities - accepted the posthumously-awarded Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Design prize for Lee Alexander McQueen, noting, "We will always miss him."

The full list of 2010 winners (nominees can be seen here):

Designer of the Year: Phoebe Philo for Celine

BFC Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Design: Lee Alexander McQueen

Designer Brand of the Year: Mulberry

Accessory Designer of the Year: Nicholas Kirkwood

Menswear Designer of the Year: Patrick Grant for E.Tautz

Model of the Year: Lara Stone

Emerging Talent Award - Accessories: Husam El Odeh

Emerging Talent Award - Ready-to-Wear: Meadham Kirchhoff

Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator of the Year: Nicola Formichetti

British Style Award: Alexa Chung

Special Recognition Award: Naomi Campbell

Digital Innovation Award: Burberry

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Veruschka Didn't Like Modeling in Giles's Spring 2011 Show

fashionologie — Tue, 02 Nov 2010 10:11:20 PDT

>> 71-year-old Veruschka modeled for Giles Deacon's Spring 2011 show last month, but it sounds like she didn't much enjoy it: "I didn’t like the makeup in the show, and didn’t think much of the dress." She says she felt like a gimmick, and added that designers no longer have the skills to dress women who are not children with bodies that look like ironing boards. When it was pointed out that her star turn in Blow-Up perpetuated the super-thin model look, she replied, "I was in my 20s when I made the movie and found success. We were women, not children. [Yes,] I was tall and I was thin. But just before shooting started I had been on a fashion assignment in Mexico and became terribly sick from drinking the water. I lost so much weight and was really ill and weak when I made the movie." [Daily Mail]

Giles Deacon's First Emanuel Ungaro Collection - for Spring 2011- Involved Anna Dello Russo Modeling a Sheep Purse

fashionologie — Tue, 05 Oct 2010 12:55:55 PDT

>> Giles Deacon is the sixth designer to try his hand at Emanuel Ungaro since the founder retired in 2004, and, as Suzy Menkes noted, he "was brought in to stabilize the brand, rather than rev it up with a grand show in his first season."

Hence, a presentation on an indoor patch of grass, the clothes modeled by “women with character and personality” in a range of ages, including Anna Dello Russo - who held a sheep handbag she named "Funbongo," French actress Joana Preiss, Querelle Jansen - who was coaxed out of modeling retirement - plus several models from the '90s: 37-year-old Claudia Mason, 35-year-old French model Caroline de Maigret, 33-year-old Brazilian model Shirley Mallmann, and 35-year-old South African model Georgina Grenville.

"I went through all the archives, from the '60s all the way through, in order to understand the feeling, the subtlety, the softness of the Ungaro heritage," Deacon explained of his collection. "I wanted the collection to be super-sophisticated, gorgeous, vivacious, sensual - really, just beautiful clothes." WWD noted that the pieces, many crafted by couture methods, "will be expensive to produce and buy," but signified what "looked like a real investment in the label."

Critics in general seemed encouraged by the collection, but not entirely sold. Style.com's Tim Blanks wrote: "You could picture the professional party girls in [the dresses] already, and on that level, the collection was a TKO. But where other women fit into the new Ungaro equation will be the challenge Deacon has to deal with in the months to come." And Cathy Horyn added: "If you consider how much time Phoebe Philo had to rethink Celine before she showed anything, Mr. Deacon needed more time to develop his ideas. Maybe Ungaro can’t wait, though . . . On the whole, the clothes looked French, the Ungaro ruching and draping was kept to a cautious minimum, and the skirts needed more design attention. The collection was certainly pitched to a young woman. Mr. Deacon’s next step is to remove himself a little more from the archive and develop his own fabrics and ideas."

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After Veruschka at Giles, What Does Katie Grand Have in Store Casting-Wise at Louis Vuitton and Emanuel Ungaro?

fashionologie — Wed, 22 Sep 2010 15:28:12 PDT

>> Katie Grand is known for cultivating unique model casts - last season at Giles and Louis Vuitton, both of which she styles, there was a proliferation of Victoria's Secret models on the runway. And while she brought back some of those "curvier" girls for Giles again this season - Alessandra Ambrosio, Ana Beatriz Barros, Anne Vyalitsyna, Noemie Lenoir, plus Sports Illustrated models Jessica Hart, Abbey Clancy (who is pregnant), and Julie Ordon - also peppered in were Agyness Deyn, who shaved her hair into a mohawk for the show, Amber Le Bon, British model and TV presenter Kelly Brook, and 71-year-old Veruschka, who closed the show.

Grand is working with Giles Deacon on his debut collection for Emanuel Ungaro this season - so surely the cast will be special for that occasion - although the only hint that came is not model-related: Deacon is working with edgy London label Sibling on knits for the show. And as for Vuitton, all Grand would say was: “[Marc Jacobs] said, ‘I’ve got all these beautiful clothes for Vuitton - what on earth are we going to do with them?’”