fashionologie

Rick Owens Sticks to Black, White, Gray, and Nude, But Brings Back Models of Color for Spring 2010

fashionologie — Thu, 01 Oct 2009 15:47:28 -0700

>> This evening at the Ecole Des Beaux Arts, Rick Owens had a bit of a seating situation, leaving a number of guests standing and unhappy. One editor reportedly decided "standing is the new front row," and WWD later noted: "If you’ve outgrown your venue, move on. Otherwise, there’s no excuse for double-booking seat upon seat."

To a soundtrack of crashing waves and with Gareth Pugh front row (Owens attended Pugh's show yesterday), a stream of sculptural shoulderpieces, long loincloth-like skirts, slicked back hair (glue sticks were used to keep it in place) and crinkled metallic bubble dresses exited backstage. Suvi Koponen made her first appearance since her smattering of shows at New York Fashion Week, but most striking was Owens's sudden casting of models of color - Georgie Baddiel, Kinee Diouf, Aminata Niaria, and Rose Cordero all made appearances; his shows have been entirely whitewashed since the Spring 2005 season, when he also cast four black models.

Gareth Pugh Goes Gray, Even a Little Soft for Spring 2010

fashionologie — Wed, 30 Sep 2009 12:04:30 -0700

>> For his second major runway show in Paris - last time around he surprised everyone with a video presentation instead - Gareth Pugh, went softer, androgynous, and gray. None of his until-now trademark hard-edged black and white palette to be seen - gray covered the model's faces, hairs, nails, bodies, and even blocked out their eyebrows. Toni Garrn walked for the first time this season.

Showstopping plumed mohawk headdresses are an editorial shoe-in, and will perhaps soon be seen on front row guest Rihanna, dressed in Pugh, who marked the designer's first major celebrity front row guest (Adrian Grenier and Michael Stipe also attended). Both menswear and womenswear were combined into one show this season, which ended with the Cranberries' "Zombie" playing - perhaps symbolic of the season's "gender-bending zombie look," as the Los Angeles Times's Booth Moore put it. More details from the show here.

fashionologie — Mon, 14 Sep 2009 00:34:53 -0700

>> Gareth Pugh's Spring 2010 Inspiration Film Debuts in New York, Online - This evening in New York, Gareth Pugh hosted a teaser presentation as a prelude to his runway show in Paris. The project, produced with filmmaker Ruth Hogben, outlines the inspirations for the collection - earth, wind, fire, and water - and involved four films being projected onto a monolithic cube in the center of the presentation space; experience the result here. Pugh told Fashion TV he didn't want to upstage his Paris show, so he opted for a different medium, and promised that his next collection will be something very unexpected. [ShowStudio, Dazed Digital]

Alexander Wang Takes His Spring 2010 After Party to a Gas Station

fashionologie — Sun, 13 Sep 2009 22:09:29 -0700

>> Alexander Wang may have changed up his collection's look for Spring 2010, but he's not about to lose his street cred. He partnered with Katie Grand and LOVE, rented out a Mobil gas station last night, and brought a crowd - which included Trish Goff, Daphne Guinness, L'Wren Scott, Erin Wasson, Vanessa Traina, plus fellow designers Esteban Cortazar and Gareth Pugh.

Despite the fact that the station's gas tanks were drained yesterday afternoon and the venue drenched with nonflammable suds, cigarettes were verboten; nicotine-dependent guests were constantly reminded with "Please stop smoking!" announcements. To take their minds off those forbidden cigarette, there were performances by both Courtney Love, who told the audience she received (ironically) a carton of cigarettes and a pair of shoes to play, and Santigold; plus guests had a free run of anything in the station's convenience store: Bee Shaffer took advantage of the candy aisle.

Alexander, for his part, seemed to be enjoying himself - he chatted up Lily Donaldson and Frankie Rayder, got down with Hanne Gaby Odiele (below), and jumped onstage and into Courtney Love's arms during her performance.

fashionologie — Fri, 11 Sep 2009 23:57:45 -0700

>> New Gareth Pugh Video To Be Screened Simultaneously in New York and Online -Score one for the plebes: the art-fashion video Gareth Pugh collaborated on with filmmaker Ruth Hogben to lay out the inspiration behind his Spring 2010 collection (before he sends it down the runway in Paris), which is screening Sept. 13 as part of New York Fashion Week will also be simultaneously screened online by SHOWstudio.com. Set your calendar for Sunday, Sept. 13 at 8 pm EST.

Fashion Week Tidbits: Gareth Pugh NY-Bound, Alexander Wang and Katie Grand Teaming Up, and Shalom Harlom Bartending at Organic

fashionologie — Fri, 04 Sep 2009 12:15:40 -0700

>> New York Fashion Week is less than a week away, and the tidbits are flowing freely - a compilation of the highlights from the past couple of days:

Double (or Triple) Duty Presentations

Gareth Pugh confirmed that he will be showing a video directed by Ruth Hogben on Sept. 13 to "set the mood for [his] catwalk show that will take place as usual in Paris." After the private showing, he'll screen the short film in public nearby - get your name on the guest list via MAC's Facebook page. [Style File]
Temperley London is taking their interactive Spring 2010 multimedia presentation on the road for the second time, starting in New York Sept. 15 before evolving in format for London Fashion Week and then again in Paris, where it will become an exhibit. The film aspect, plus stills and a behind-the-scenes cut will be readily available online on Temperley's new website.

First look at Yoko Ono for threeASFOUR, and Karl Lagerfeld's attendance status answered »

Alexander Wang, Gareth Pugh, and More Are Scooping Up Chance to Show at MAC and Milk's Free New York Fashion Week Venue

fashionologie — Fri, 31 Jul 2009 11:31:12 -0700

>> Soon after Maybelline announced it would be be taking over from five-year Bryant Park cosmetics sponsor MAC, MAC - presumedly, as New York Times' Eric Wilson put it, tired of having to share "a rather circuslike stage with other sponsors who were competing for attention, sometimes including makers of doughnuts, cameras, toilets and Big Macs" - announced that it would be producing the tentatively-titled MAC and Milk Fashion Week with Milk Studios at the same time as the traditional New York Fashion Week.

The event can be seen as either a complement or a competitor to Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, but on the record, anyway, there seem to be no hard feelings. Milk Studios founder Mazdack Rassi says of the initiative: "This week is not an alternative show space, it's a way of cultivating designers and helping them come up with new ways of selling their clothes." And Zach Eichman, a VP of IMG Fashion, which produces the shows at Bryant Park, told the New York Times last week the company welcomed the MAC and Milk event and that bus service between shows would be available when possible. “We can’t do every show in the tents. We hope they will be successful.”

Alexander Wang will be there, so will Preen »

fashionologie — Tue, 28 Jul 2009 11:19:19 -0700

>> Olivier Zahm Teases Upcoming Purple Fashion #12 -Olivier Zahm took the upcoming issue of Purple Fashion - out in September - to the printers' today and gave us a peek at Terry Richardson's "Best of the Season" editorial that was photographed at Milk Studios in June. In the past couple of months, Zahm has offered a number of teasers on the issue: a Gareth Pugh spotlight editorial styled by Francesca Burns, a nude pictorial captured by Mario Sorrenti, a Venice shoot with Baptiste Giabiconi by Karl Lagerfeld, and a set by Paola Kudaki. [Purple Diary]

fashionologie — Thu, 07 May 2009 14:31:47 -0700

>> INSIDER WIRE -Models aren't the only ones with a hankering for the bleach blonde: Gareth Pugh has one, too. He and boyfriend Carson McColl (right), are in Singapore for a runway re-show today of his men's and women's collections at the Audi Fashion Festival - apparently they were all lovey at the after-party and then jumped in a pool during a thunderstorm later with Pugh stylist Katie Shillingford and publicist Mandi Lennard. [Purple Diary, ONTD_FF, Mandi]

fashionologie — Tue, 17 Mar 2009 11:49:08 -0700

>> ON THE CAMPAIGN TRAIL -Little by little, Rodarte is making a foray into the advertising world - first with an ad in the Winter edition of Anthem, and now for Spring 2009 in the latest issue of V Magazine (#58), at left. Are Laura and Kate Mulleavy considering going more commercial? If they're receiving LVMH mentoring like Gareth Pugh, they just might be - Gareth has been working on making his pieces more wearable recently. [Fashion Copious, Fashion Copious]