fashionologie

Fashion Magazines With Less Retouching: The Future or a Current Fad?

fashionologie — Thu, 28 May 2009 16:38:02 PDT

>> In the March 2008 issue of Vogue, premier retoucher of fashion photographs, Pascal Dangin, tweaked a total of 144 images, from ads to editorial spreads, and in The September Issue, which focuses on the making of Vogue's September 2007 issue, Anna Wintour definitely displays a reliance on retouching, asking Mario Testino to superimpose cover girl Sienna Miller's head from one shot onto her body in another shot, and requesting that a cameraman's gut from an editorial shot be diminished, to Grace Coddington's dismay: "Everybody isn't perfect in this world. It's enough that the models are perfect."

When digital manipulation programs first came into use in the early '90s, reports Eric Wilson for The New York Times, art directors originally used them to create a heightened sense of reality like images achieved through movie special effects - "hyper real" style, as former The Face art director and current Love creative director Lee Swillingham coined it - as a reaction against the images of supermodels that looked too perfect. Editors weren't suggesting the resulting look be attainable, Swillingham explains: “We were trying to create a future fashion. You could do something that looked gritty and real or something that looked like plastic.”

Now, some major photographers are pushing for less plastic, more real »

Cannes Film Festival 2009: Carine Roitfeld Appearances, Chanel Movie Screenings, and Lily Cole Film Debuts

fashionologie — Wed, 13 May 2009 15:06:13 PDT

>> While fashion types are currently migrating to Venice for tomorrow's Chanel Cruise 2010 show - Karl Lagerfeld arrived Monday with Baptiste Giabiconi and his runway favorites Siri Tollerod, Heidi Mount, Liu Wen, Charlotte di Calypso, and Denisa Dvorakova are all already in town for fittings and the dinner Karl's hosting tonight - many are continuing on to the Cannes Film Festival, which opened today.

In fact, the Chanel theme carries over in Cannes - Jan Kounen’s Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky, starring Anna Mouglalis and Mads Mikkelsen, screens May 24, the closing day. In between now and then, Carine Roitfeld - as well as Donatella Versace and Kenneth Cole - will make her annual appearance at amfAR's Cinema Against AIDS benefit on May 21 at the Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc, which also features an exhibition by photographer Bruce Weber.

Lily Cole, Laetitia Casta have films debuting »

Fashion In 50 Seconds 04/13/09 Matthew Williamson For H&M Ads & More

coutorture — Mon, 13 Apr 2009 06:33:52 PDT

Matthew Williamson's H&M ads have been revealed and feature model Daria Werbowy on the beach...

Some misses' specialty stores, like Ann Taylor and Chicos, are failing to update their retail strategies.

French Elle's April issue features a number of top models and actresses without makeup or retouching.

Trovata's suit against Forever 21 for copying a number of its designs is slated to go to trial next month.

Eva Herzigova, Ines de la Fressange Go Without Makeup, Retouching for French Elle Covers

fashionologie — Fri, 10 Apr 2009 18:06:25 PDT

>> While the editors at Elle are making lists of what the economy has forced them to give up (bottled water, working out with a trainer) and what necessities they can't bear to part with (haircuts at Fekkai, Wolford tights, monthly facials), their counterparts at French Elle are preparing to do something novel. This week's issue, which hits newsstands Saturday, features Eva Herzigova, Inès de la Fressange, and actresses Monica Bellucci, Sophie Marceau, Anne Parillaud, Karin Viard, Charlotte Rampling, and Chiara Mastroianni, who all agreed to appear without any makeup or retouching. Peter Lindbergh did the honors, and inside the magazine, five more unnamed celebrities are promised.
*image: source

View Slideshow ›

Kate Moss Turns 38, Giles Deacon Creates iPad Prints, and Tommy Ton Snaps Pitti Uomo

Christina Perez — Mon, 16 Jan 2012 07:25:36 PST

>> Today's stories and more - here, in our daily news roundup.

Kate Moss turns 38: A look at the supermodel's best bad-girl moments
[Stylecaster]

Peek inside a Teen Vogue editor's New York apartment [Refinery29]

Moda Operandi’s founder talks strategy, Taylor Tomasi Hill, and average transaction price per customer
[Fashionista]

Giles Deacon on his new iPad prints [Elle]

Alberta Ferretti: semi-celebrity meets demi-couture
[Telegraph]

Tommy Ton's street style: the photographer hits Pitti Uomo [GQ]

Grace Coddington, Scarlet Woman: former husband Willie Christie unveils his intimate portraits of Vogue’s creative director [Nowness]

French swimwear line Tooshie teams with A.P.C. for capsule collection [T Magazine]

Target's new design collaboration thinks local, ships national [Racked]

Hearst Could End Up Buying Elle After All

fashionologie — Wed, 01 Dec 2010 12:52:41 PST

>> The rumors have been flying for well over a year now, but finally, French conglomerate Lagardere, which owns publisher Hachette Filipacchi, and subsequently, Elle, has confirmed that it is exploring options for its international magazine business.

“These are informal discussions, which can result in anything from partnerships to joint ventures to an outright sale," a spokeswoman confirmed. "But at this stage nothing is fixed, and no time limit has been set."

Regardless of what happens, Lagardere plans to hold on to its French magazines - including French Elle - and retain editorial control over the foreign editions of Elle (which includes American Elle). When asked about the rumors that Harper's Bazaar publisher Hearst was interested in buying a controlling stake in American Elle, the spokeswoman replied: “They are certainly one of the possible partners but by no means the only one.”

Hearst Could Own Elle Within the Month

fashionologie — Mon, 03 Jan 2011 10:55:20 PST

>> Harper's Bazaar publisher Hearst could have ownership of all 40-plus foreign editions of Elle (minus the original French one) within the month. After over a year of rumors about the acquisition, and then word that Bauer Media or Meredith Corporation might also be in the running, Elle parent company Lagardere announced on Friday that it is in exclusive talks with Hearst, giving until Jan. 30, for the deal to be struck. Whatever happens, Lagardere still aims to keep full editorial control at Elle, post-sale. [Bloomberg, WWD]

Marc Jacobs on His Fall 2010 Louis Vuitton Cast, the Origins of His Skirt Obsession, and Red Carpet Dressing

fashionologie — Tue, 23 Mar 2010 10:44:11 PDT

>> Last night in Manhattan, Marc Jacobs participated in the French Institute Alliance Française Fashion Talks Series, where he explained that he wasn't attempting to make a statement about age or body type with his womanly Fall 2010 Louis Vuitton cast.

“I believe that these iconic, larger-than-life women are very Vuitton-like . . . This season we talked about it and we decided the criteria was, they have to be available on the day of the show and they have to be gorgeous," he explained. "So we just kept throwing out names . . . I suggested Elle Macpherson and Laetitia Casta, and [my stylist Katie Grand] suggested Alessandra Ambrosio and Adriana Lima." Some models Jacobs wanted for the show didn't work out. "There were plenty of other girls who we wanted to work with who weren’t available. We wanted Daria [Werbowy], but she was booked for a shoot, and Isabeli [Fontana] but she was booked for a shoot." The ultimate goal of the cast, he said, was to have people who "don’t know anything about fashion" say "That was a gorgeous show."

As for the skirt »

Former Vogue Paris Editor-in-Chief Joan Juliet Buck Returns to Acting

fashionologie — Mon, 10 Aug 2009 14:24:45 PDT

>> There are plenty of model-turned-actresses, but editor-turned-actress is a less populated category. Joan Juliet Buck, Vogue Paris's editor-in-chief from 1994 to 2001 and a current contributing editor at Vogue - she most recently did Christy Turlington's cover story for the August 2009 issue - was a child actress for Disney back in 1961's Greyfriars Bobby: The True Story of a Dog, and made a return to screen over the weekend in Julie & Julia, which features Meryl Streep as Julia Child.

Buck's years in Paris paid off - she plays a character with a French accent, who in her words, is "The B*tch: the cold, mean proprietor of the Cordon Bleu Cooking School in 1949, Madame Elizabeth Brassart. I have four scenes. In each scene I abuse Meryl Streep. That was my return to acting." A slice of her work in the movie - which Elle's Joe Zee thought she "played so well" - can be seen from 2:20 to 2:25 here.

So how did she end up in the movie? »

David Bailey Joins Katie Grand, Peter Lindbergh in Reaction Against Airbrushing

fashionologie — Thu, 20 Aug 2009 14:27:25 PDT

>> Last year, there was a huge push for more diversity in fashion, culminating in the publication of Vogue Italia's all-black July 2008 issue. Unfortunately, attention on that issue has waned this year, even though there is still much work to be done; now, the issue du jour seems to be what has become a common practice among fashion magazines: heavy retouching.

Katie Grand, who while at POP was a huge proponent of the "super glossy" look, has since reigned in her reliance on Photoshop. Of her first issue of LOVE, which came out in February, Katie told Interview, "It's not so retouched. I just wanted to take pictures of iconic people without redrawing them." And she's continuing the tradition for her second issue, out Sept. 1 - she had Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott (whose aesthetic generally lends itself to a good bit of retouching) photograph cover girl Coco Sumner as she walked in off the street, no hair or makeup. The Times UK wrote of that decision: "She is shrewdly tapping into the new spirit of the times - heavily airbrushed celebrities seem gauche and embarrassing during a recession."

David Bailey: "It’s f*cking ridiculous" »