fashionologie

The 2011 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Finalists Announced

fashionologie — Thu, 14 Jul 2011 12:34:07 PDT

>> The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund judging committee - which this year includes Jack McCollough, Lazaro Hernandez, Vogue's Mark Holgate, Jeffrey Kalinsky of Jeffrey and Nordstrom, CFDA executive director Steven Kolb, Reed Krakoff, Andrew Rosen, Diane von Furstenberg, Jenna Lyons, and Anna Wintour - have determined the 2011 finalists. They are:

AA, Antonio Azzuolo
Altuzarra, Joseph Altuzarra
Carlos Campos, Carlos Campos
Creatures of the Wind, Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters
Cushnie Et Ochs, Michelle Ochs and Carly Cushnie
Finn Jewelry, Soraya Silchenstedt
Fenton/Fallon, Dana Lorenz
Ohne Titel, Alexa Adams and Flora Gill
Pamela Love
Suno, Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty

Joseph Altuzarra and Pamela Love are repeat finalists from last year, and Ohne Titel was a finalist in 2009. The winner and two runners-up will be announced Nov. 14.

Ohne Titel's Floral Gill and Alexa Adams Are Feeling Alaia-Like Knit Skirts and Neoprene Tops for Spring 2011

fashionologie — Sun, 12 Sep 2010 18:21:58 PDT

>> Flora Gill and Alexa Adams say that their Fall 2010 collection resulted in a 300 percent jump in sales for Ohne Titel, but they're still attracting the art fashion crowd that has been with them from the beginning: pre-show, Cecilia Dean, wearing an Ohne Titel dress, tucked away a bicycle helmet into her bag, while Olivier Zahm arrived half an hour late - just after a curtain was dropped at the entrance - still stuffing change from a cab ride into his pocket. Carine Roitfeld, who's attended the past couple of seasons, was nowhere to be seen, however (It seems she had not yet arrived, as she was first spotted this morning at Derek Lam).

For Spring, Gill and Adams were inspired by the Japanese woodblock artist Utagawa Kuniyoshi - thanks to a Japan Society exhibit earlier this year - and sent out neoprene tanks (which will apparently be special order-only), Alaia-esque knit dresses with flared skirts, and oversized tailored vests, all on a womanly cast of models: Catherine McNeil, who opened, Cameron Russell in her first and only appearance so far this week, Emanuela de Paula (who hasn't walked a Fashion Week since Fall 2007), and Lakshmi Menon among them. The designers, who collaborated with the artist Tauba Auerbach on lucite and elastic-banded jewelry - marking her first time as a jeweler - also premiered their first handbags.

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fashionologie — Wed, 31 Mar 2010 12:40:57 PDT

>> Hanne-Gaby Odiele, Ohne Titel, and Casting Director Natalie Joos Among Paper's 2010 Beautiful People -Paper has released its annual Beautiful People issue; among the fashion contigent are photographer and Rodarte collaborator Autumn de Wilde, casting director Natalie Joos, Hanne-Gaby Odiele, Calvin Klein model David Agobodji, Prabal Gurung, Ohne Titel, Milk Studios' Mazdack Rassi and wife, Marie Claire fashion editor Zanna Rassi. Among the tidbits gleaned: Alexa Adams of Ohne Titel's great-grandfather was Al Capone's tailor. [Paper]

Ohne Titel Delivers Modern Take on Victorian Style For Fall 2010 Collection

coutorture — Mon, 15 Feb 2010 08:57:17 PST

Influenced by 19th Century shapes, Ohne Titel designers Alexa Adams and Flora Gill took an athletic spin on Victorian style for fall 2010, toughening up Edwardian ideas and adding military details to give the collection the strong and sleek look for which the pair has become known.

"The total idea was this sort of Victorian silhouette. We wanted to take some of the shapes and even some of the textures and modernize it in an interesting way," Adams told us backstage after the runway show. The theme was best illustrated in the graphic netting used in leggings and paneled dresses. For this Adams and Gill explained they used old world lace-making techniques on a series of meshes, then magnified the pattern to create an exaggerated lace-a look which stole the show and provided a constant theme throughout.

Overall the collection was powerful yet approachable and utterly wearable. Some of the designers' favorite looks will no doubt be flying off shelves come fall-most notably a all-mesh dress with matching mesh leggings, a black fox and shearling jacket with a black leather belt, jogging-style slouch pants, cropped leather jackets, and the leather and net booties designed with Cesare Paciotti.

Gill told us the most gratifying part of creating clothes is to see strangers on the street wearing Ohne Titel, and, with this collection, we're pretty sure she's going to have one incredible fall season.

Ohne Titel Fall 2010: Nothing But Net

fashionologie — Sat, 13 Feb 2010 23:07:36 PST

>> Ohne Titel has the industry rapt: one look at the front row - scattered with the likes of Suzy Menkes, Hamish Bowles, Cecilia Dean, Cathy Horyn, Stefano Tonchi, and Carine Roitfeld in her first appearance of the week - is a testament to that. But this season, Alexa Adams and Flora Gill were ready to win over more than just the editorial crowd; they focused on keeping prices down, producing wearable pieces, and growing their clientele.

Starting with "nineteenth century shapes and details" and adding their own utilitarian twist, out came streamlined knits, net skirts, and velvet jackets in moss green, gray, and black. Stylist Alastair McKimm helped the designers pair everything with patchwork tights and strapped wedge boots, the latter part of their ongoing collaboration with Cesare Paciotti.

If Flora and Alexa are looking for more fans, they definitely appear to have won over their models: Maryna Linchuk made her first Fashion Week appearance at the show, dancing as she entered the backstage area after walking; Constance Jablonski, too, gave a happy little shimmy after her runway loop.

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Alexander Wang Takes Home 2009 Swiss Textile Award; Kate Mulleavy On Why Her Label Is Called "Rodarte," Not "Mulleavy"

fashionologie — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 09:37:42 PST

>> Alexander Wang is experiencing quite the winning streak - he was awarded the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund of $200,000 last November, the 2009 CFDA Swarovski Womenswear winner this past June, and now he's taking home the 2009 Swiss Textiles Award, a prize of about $150,000, to go towards international development. Wang becomes the second American designer in a row to win the Swiss Textiles Award, following after Rodarte, who were the first American winners ever last year.

The jury this year, chaired by Isabel Toledo, apparently had a tough time making a decision - Wang's fellow finalists this year were Peter Pilotto, Erdem, Thakoon, Alexis Mabille, and Ohne Titel, who will each receive a prize of approximately $6,000.

Former winners, Raf Simons, Kate Mulleavy sound off »

Ohne Titel Straddles Primitive Egyptian Modernity for Spring 2010

fashionologie — Sat, 12 Sep 2009 23:02:21 PDT

>> Ohne Titel's Alexa Adams and Flora Gill told Fashionista backstage that their Spring 2010 collection was their strongest yet, and they weren't kidding. Inspired by "the graphic lines, lush textures, and bold colors in Egyptian reliefs and sculptures," according to their show notes, Adams and Gill adapted their signature tailoring and body-con sensibilities to span an oxymoronic look of primitive modernity. They elaborated to The Cut: "We looked at a lot of wall painting and sculptures, and so we’re kind of playing with taking those same kind of proportions and applying them on the body."

Lace-up heels, flats, and thigh-high boots done in collaboration with Cesare Paciotti are sure to have the shoehounds drooling, and the prevalent texture in the collection - including patches of multicolored hand embroidery - was exquisite. Alastair McKimm, who worked with Alexander Wang the last two seasons, styled, and both Cathy Horyn and Visionaire's Cecilia Dean appeared front row.

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Get to Know the 2009 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Nominees

fashionologie — Wed, 15 Jul 2009 14:32:38 PDT

>> This year's ten CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists have just been announced - they range from the eco-conscious (Monique Pean, Alabama Chanin) to cobblers (Esquivel Shoes) to straight-up womenswear designers (Sophie Theallet, Wayne, Ohne Titel, Gary Graham). Anna Wintour noted, “We had very strong applicant pool this year, particularly among the jewelers" - here's looking at lucky jewelry nominees Pean and House of Waris. The winner and runners-up, who are bestowed with cash prizes and industry mentorship, will be announced Nov. 16 at the annual gala.

Until then, an introduction (minus menswear nominees Patrik Ervell and Simon Spurr of Spurr).

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Ohne Titel's Fall 2009 Understated Spectacular Confirms They Are Ones To Watch

fashionologie — Sat, 14 Feb 2009 22:42:40 PST

>> It was a three-tone show for Ohne Titel this morning: black, gray, or brown, but it contrasted quite nicely with the light, bright white space; the only pops of color in the room came from the varicolored macaroons being served beforehand. Quite the show for the newly-minted 2009 Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation winners. The model cast was excitingly blue-chip - Liu Wen! Constance Jablonski! Lakshmi Menon! Eniko Mihalik! - it must be those unzipped knee-exposing stretch pants they're all gunning to take home; that and the over-the-knee, ruffled-top, lace-up back leather boots Alexa Adams and Flora Gill did in conjunction with Cesare Paciotti.

The designers say they went "darker" with "armorial" accents this season; along with the tight-fitting knit bondage dresses, the pieces fitted with studs, what looked like washers, and other assorted metallic elements organized in a pattern that reminded me of an art deco skyscraper, stood out. Also of note: Alastair McKimm, who styled Alexander Wang last season and this season, also styled this show.
*image: source

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Fall 2009 Could Be the Death of More Promising Designers

fashionologie — Thu, 05 Feb 2009 17:30:11 PST

>> Fall 2009 is "the make or break season" for small designers, according to Eric Wilson of The New York Times. Stores are reducing their orders by 20 percent or more for Fall, and some are already trying to cancel their Spring orders, which puts small businesses, especially those without independent financial backing, in a tenuous position. Basically, Wilson points out, "The more stores that close, the more designers will follow." And in show season, the cost of samples and putting on a show doesn't help with the strain.

"We're just trying to survive." »