fashionologie

Chanel Fall 2010: All Faux Fur and Icebergs

fashionologie — Tue, 09 Mar 2010 17:14:09 PST

>> For the six days leading up to the Chanel Fall 2010 show, Karl Lagerfeld had the thirty-five person team who sculpted The Ice Hotel in Sweden brought in to carve a 265-ton iceberg, also imported from Sweden, in the middle of the Grand Palais. The room was chilled to 25 degrees Fahrenheit, and the iceberg was hidden from the audience under a large wooden box that mechanically rose when the show started.

Four models - Brad Kroenig, Baptiste Giabiconi, Abbey Lee Kershaw, and Freja Beha Erichsen (the latter two who are reportedly set to appear in the Chanel Fall 2010 campaign) - in furry yeti suits opened the display, "milling about in a daze" before dispersing, and giving way to a train of models sloshing through water from the melting iceberg; some even left shoes which came loose behind in their wake.

“Global warming is the issue of our times. Fashion has to address it,” Lagerfeld said afterward. And fur was everywhere - boots, skirts, pants, bags - but all faux. Karl said he went with faux fur for two reasons: first, Fendi does the best real furs and he doesn't want to compete, and second: “Technical advances are so perfect you can hardly tell fake fur from the real thing. Fake is not chic - we have got a new Chanel tweed to stop copies - but fake fur is.”
*image: source

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Christian Dior Fall 2010: Libertine Ladies and Anna Wintour's Last Show This Paris Fashion Week

fashionologie — Fri, 05 Mar 2010 11:49:47 PST

>> With the flashing lights and soundtrack of a thunderstorm, plus thumping hoofbeats and the braying of a horse, the Dior show was off this morning. The theme? "The Seduction of the Libertine," based on the 17th century Earl of Rochester - who John Galliano came out dressed like at the end, in poet's shirt and jodhpurs tucked into riding boots - and his courtesans.

“This season Dior takes up the heroic spirit of French romanticism and Mr. Dior’s beloved English riding tweeds. I was inspired by the drape, line and cut as well as the characters of the era. I wanted to create a new luxury, and new lover, in the romance of the seductive libertine of Dior,” Galliano explained backstage.

Anna Dello Russo took in the cape coats and printed chiffon dresses stomping by on Coco Rocha, Jessica Stam, Chanel Iman, Ana Beatriz Barros, and Karlie Kloss while sitting on the floor, and the show appeared to mark Anna Wintour's last this Paris Fashion Week - she was nowhere to be seen later at Lanvin.

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fashionologie — Fri, 05 Mar 2010 11:06:21 PST

>> Team Vogue Paris "Blacklisted" from Balenciaga -After neither Carine Roitfeld nor any of the Vogue Paris staff appeared at Balenciaga yesterday morning; Roitfeld told WWD later in the day: “We’re blacklisted. It’s too bad, it’s a beautiful house and it’s French. I hope that it’s not forever.” She said that Balenciaga no longer advertises with Vogue Paris or lends the magazine clothes, but has given no reason for the rift. "Ask them." A Balenciaga spokesman declined comment, but a commenter on Fashionista noted that it may have something to do with Balenciaga's stylist, Marie-Amelie Sauve, who is no longer styling for the magazine. Vogue Paris hasn't had Balenciaga ads as far back as the October 2009 issue, although that issue did feature Balenciaga samples. [WWD, Fashionista, Fashin, Fashin]

fashionologie — Thu, 04 Mar 2010 12:13:28 PST

>> No Photos to Be Allowed at McQueen Presentation -The Alexander McQueen show was cancelled and replaced with a presentation/memorial on March 9 and 10 instead. Now, word comes that seeing the final collection McQueen worked on just got a little more difficult: photos have been banned from the presentation. [@BinkleyOnStyle]

UPDATE: Photographers are banned at the presentation, but photos of the collection will be provided to media outlets. [The Cut]

Christophe Decarnin Goes for the Gold with Balmain Fall 2010

fashionologie — Thu, 04 Mar 2010 11:19:41 PST

>> With Prince on the soundtrack, Christophe Decarnin sent out a river of gold: on sequins, brocade, slit-up-to-there dresses, fringe, and even those skin-tight pants. Cathy Horyn Tweeted, "Electric gold pinstripes on a Balmain pantsuit made me think, I'm sorry, of the Eiffel."

Decarnin is still stuck on big shoulders, but he did add in trouser suits with pussy-bow blouses and fur jackets this time around. Backstage, he explained: “I started from a standpoint of classical French couture, like a Cardin jacket and trousers from 1970; all very elegant - and then I moved to the Court of Versailles . . . This is pretty good substitute for Versailles, non?"

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fashionologie — Thu, 04 Mar 2010 10:58:28 PST

>> Alessandra Ambrosio to Walk Givenchy, Too? -Alessandra Ambrosio, who has walked at Prada and Giles already this season, is rumored to be walking for Givenchy tomorrow, as well. Don't be surprised if you see Alicia Kuczman at Givenchy, too - the Brazilian Jil Sander exclusive is said to have a Paris exclusive, too, and Givenchy seems like the right fit. [@modelwhispers, TI]

Marco Zanini Finds Inspiration for Rochas Fall 2010 in '60s Goldie Hawn Movie Cactus Flower

fashionologie — Wed, 03 Mar 2010 11:55:43 PST

>> Bianca Balti opened in what turned out to be a very '60s-drawn Rochas collection by Marco Zanini. Teased flippy hair, shift dresses, exaggerated pointy collars, and acid hues were punctuated by leopard print and gold lame on bags and the elbow shields of cardigans. Zanini said he was inspired by a Goldie Hawn movie, Cactus Flower - perhaps explaining the floral bow motif carrying throughout. The finale, a crowd of models showered in a psychedelic mix of colored lights.

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Dries van Noten Sends Fall 2010 Guests Through Airport-Like Security Pre-Show

fashionologie — Wed, 03 Mar 2010 10:07:06 PST

>> Dries van Noten took fashion show security to a new level today in Paris: everyone's bags had to be scanned, airport-style, before entering the show venue, which just so happened to be the Salle de Fetes (the mayor's party room), in Paris' historic City Hall.

Against the setting's gilded, painted ceiling and decadent hanging chandeliers, van Noten sent out an army of military green, leopard print, hand-painted silks, tops cut off and frayed at the shoulders, and hourglass-shaped coats to a Malcolm McLaren-curated soundtrack. "We started with '50s and '60s couture, the beautiful shapes, and also looked at other garments, menswear, military uniforms and mixed them together in a rebellious way," the designer said backstage. "You get the same elegance, but in a really different way." Jane Birkin, in jeans and faded Western shirt, and Jared Leto were both front row taking it in.

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fashionologie — Tue, 02 Mar 2010 10:44:23 PST

>> More Victoria's Secret Models to Walk at Giles -Victoria's Secret models have popped up at Givenchy, Balenciaga, and most recently Prada, but that's not the end - Giles Deacon is continuing the run by casting Karolina Kurkova, Alessandra Ambrosio, Izabel Goulart, and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley in his show tomorrow along with Jessica Stam, Coco Rocha, Carmen Kass, and Angela Lindvall. Giles is showing at almost the same time as Gareth Pugh - they're scheduled just half an hour apart. [Vogue UK]

Zoolander 2 Writer/Director to Research Film During Paris Fashion Week

fashionologie — Thu, 25 Feb 2010 09:18:53 PST

>> Cult film Zoolander, which came out in 2001, is getting a sequel, courtesy of Paramount and the original film's star, Ben Stiller. Stiller is said to be working with Tropic Thunder and Iron Man 2 writer Justin Theroux on a script - and Theroux is also set to direct.

Theroux is reportedly heading to Paris Fashion Week this time around to "immerse himself on what is current in fashion," and the hopes are that Owen Wilson will reprise his role as Hansel, but no deal is set. Jonah Hill, meanwhile, is said to be in negotiations as the film's villain.