fashionologie

Riccardo Tisci Casts Only Asian Models to Show Japanese-Infused Spring 2011 Givenchy Couture Collection

fashionologie — Tue, 25 Jan 2011 10:35:19 PST

>> Now that Givenchy's couture presentations are intimate and without the hoopla of a fashion show, Riccardo Tisci has decreased the number of dresses per collection produced - this time, there were only ten. But that doesn't mean there's a lack of drama. Inspired by Japanese robot toys and Kazuo Ohno (the legendary Japanese Butoh dancer who Tisci met through a mutual friend), the collection is pastel in front with shocks of brighter color in the back - like with Pre-Fall, Tisci has left his usual black-based palette behind. One dress, with hand-dyed and hand-cut matte sequins, took 4,000 hours of handwork to assemble. And as for the model cast, Tisci went completely Asian, with Chinese (Ming Xi, Liu Wen, Shu Pei Qin, Sun Fei Fei, Du Juan, Jiang Xiao Yi), Japanese (Ai Tominaga, Tao Okamoto) and Korean (Hye Rim Park, So Young Kang) all represented.

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The Rise of the Asian Model - A Moment or a Movement?

fashionologie — Mon, 22 Nov 2010 08:41:14 PST

>> Is the current rise of Asian models a moment or a movement? The latter, Kwok Chan, director of international scouting at Marilyn Agency (which represents Liu Wen), tells Vogue in its December 2010 issue. Curiously, of all the most in-demand Asian models currently, none of them are Asian-American. "The only way I can explain why there are no big Asian-American names is, why are photo shoots done in some exotic locale and it looks like you've shot in someone's backyard?" Chan says. "Fashion is fantasy; it's about perception."

Dick Page, creative director of Shiseido, chalks up Asian models' increased visibility to "most economics. Everybody in the fashion/beauty industry recognizes the importance of global markets, and currently, China, Taiwan, and South Korea are at the forefront. The upshot is that customers want to see some version of themselves represented." And Anita Bitton, a casting director who has worked on Alexander Wang's shows and Gap campaigns, says that an ease in travel restrictions could also be a contributor: "Some of these girls had trouble obtaining work visas."

Liu Wen herself has noted a change within the last two seasons: "The challenge for me, and for Asian models in general, has been convincing editors, stylists, and photographers that we can have mass appeal. "But Asian, especially Chinese, models have become a stronger presence. Just a season or two ago, there weren't many models for me to talk with backstage in my native Mandarin. Now I usually have no trouble finding someone at any show." Du Juan adds: "There still are brands or clients that would not consider using an Asian model, but things are changing dramatically and quickly. I am not so sure if being Asian was or is a hindrance. In fact, I think it is a plus."

Because of the shift, Angelica Cheung, editor in chief of Vogue China, has noticed a shift in the Chinese ideal of beauty: "Traditionally the Chinese favored a classic kind of beauty - big, round eyes, cute small mouth, a high nose, and very fair skin. The Chinese models who have made it internationally are not beauties in the traditional sense, so they are modernizing the concept of beauty in China. When I was growing up in the seventies, everyone wore a blue, gray, or green Mao suit - there was no chance for women to be glamorous or different. Now you see young Chinese trying to be radical by dyeing their hair blonde or blue, sporting tattoos. It is a combination of copying what they see is popular in the Western world and trying to stand out in a nation where almost all of the 1.3 billion population have straight black hair and brown eyes. I like to joke that in less than a decade, China has gone from Karl Marx to Karl Lagerfeld!”

fashionologie — Tue, 21 Jul 2009 13:40:53 PDT

>> Du Juan Is Having Some Legal Woes -Du Juan has been sued by Chinese modeling agency New Silk Road for allegedly violating their contract by signing with IMG and may face a fine of up to 4.5m yuan (approx. $659,000). The agreement was made in Sept. 2002, after Du Juan was crowned at the agency's annual model search, and stipulates that New Silk Road remain her sole agency. Since she signed with IMG in 2005 before the contract expired, New Silk Road demands part of the model's earnings at IMG, as well as another 3m yuan (approx. $439,000) fine. Du Juan's attorney says that she was forced to sign the New Silk Road contract in order to enter the final round of their competition, as opposed to after the show as the company has claimed. [China Daily]

Vogue Paris, Three Stylists Turn Out 65 Pages Worth of Models in Iconic Brand Looks

fashionologie — Mon, 20 Jul 2009 13:48:05 PDT

>> Some thought that Vogue Paris's August 2009 cover with Daria Werbowy all decked out in Burberry check looked too blatantly like an advertisement, but in the context of Inez van Lamweerde and Vinoodh Matadin's 65-page accompanying editorial inside - with a plethora of models, each embodying a different brand's identity - it all makes sense.

It's a few of the magazine's usual suspects - Anja Rubik doing Gucci's "glam star" in fauxhawk, Kamila Filipcikova striking an eyepopping McQueen silhouette - plus a few new faces like Regina Feoktistova and Ranya Mordanova in Gianfranco Ferre and Junya Watanabe, respectively. The trifecta of stylists that produced these images - Joe McKenna, Emmanuelle Alt, Carine Roitfeld - prove that there is creativity to be found within the bounds of a studio shoot, after all.

Full editorial here: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5; gallery below NSFW.

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Marc Jacobs Wears Skirt, Shows Skirts for Spring 2009

fashionologie — Tue, 09 Sep 2008 00:45:30 PDT

>> For the second season in a row, Marc Jacobs started his show promptly, just ten minutes after its scheduled start - only this time, half the attendees weren't locked out - everyone had learned their lesson. "Ladies and gentlemen, please take your seats. The show is about to begin."

Through swinging mirror doors, the models walked the mirror-lined runway from every direction, funhouse illusions abounding. But show tactics aside, with Marc, it always comes down to the clothes - the mashed-up, layered, bangled clothes, sparkling, plaided, and sheened. As Gershwin played in the background, Marc took us in a whole new direction - and he did it while wearing a skirt.

To get the full experience, check out the runway video at Elle.com.
*image: source

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Du Juan Brings Fire to the Olympics

fashionologie — Mon, 11 Aug 2008 10:12:56 PDT

>> There have been many firsts in Du Juan's career: She was the first Asian model to appear on a Vogue Paris cover and graced the first-ever cover of Vogue China. On Friday, she accomplished a big first outside the modeling world, becoming the first Chinese model to bear an Olympic torch by running one leg of the procession in Beijing. It may not hold a candle to the opening ceremony spectacle, but a big honor nonetheless.

fashionologie — Thu, 17 Jul 2008 17:30:52 PDT

>> ON THE CAMPAIGN TRAIL —Kate Moss has been known to channel Brigitte Bardot in a number of editorials, most recently for August 2008 Vogue. Now, those smoky eyes and ruffled Bardot hair have appeared in Kate's first shot for Fall 2008 David Yurman. She joins Du Juan in the latest edition of a campaign that is similar season after season, but always seems to work. [Models.com]

Another Vogue Cover Shoot in Progress?

fashionologie — Tue, 15 Jul 2008 16:13:33 PDT

»Reese Witherspoon is likely shooting with Mario Testino in Paris for an upcoming Vogue cover [PopSugar]

»The CK Jeans Fall 2008 campaign is rumored to feature 17 models in total [Style File]

»Du Juan does David Yurman Fall 2008 [Of the Minute]

»Chanel Iman, Victoria's Secret Pink lady [Fashionista]

»Jessie Randall's 93-year-old grandfather bought out the entire Loeffler Randall for Target stock at his local Florida store to give as gifts [The Cut]

»Coco Rocha was shown Lily Cole photos on her first shoot for inspiration [Fashionista]

»Urban Outfitters made a cartoon Karl Lagerfeld shirt [Nylon]

fashionologie — Thu, 10 Jul 2008 14:25:08 PDT

>> ON THE CAMPAIGN TRAIL —Carrying on her reign at Giorgio Armani —she appeared in the brand's Pre-Fall 2008 ads — Du Juan is joined by Jessica Stam in a dark, blunt crop for Fall 2008. The dark, moody photos were shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, but look very inspired by Paolo Roversi, rather than like their normal crisp, color-saturated fare. [TFS]

Gap Goes With Models, Awkward Photoshopping

fashionologie — Tue, 08 Jul 2008 14:58:17 PDT

»A Spring 2008 Gap ad features Chanel Iman, Julia Stegner, Coco Rocha, Du Juan, Vlada Roslyakova, Anja Rubik . . . and a shoddy Photoshop job [ONTD_FF]

»Is Lily Cole edging Kate Moss out at Rimmel? [The Cut]

»An unnamed male designer had a face-lift gone wrong last year [Page Six]

»Models had to practice walking on a simulated dirt runway before doing Givenchy Fall 2008 couture [Style.com]

»A first look at Heidi Mount in Bally's Fall 2008 campaign [FWD]

»Meredith Melling Burke wears a mustache! [Fashionista]

»The full Richard Chai for Target collection [FabSugar]

»Roberto Cavalli: Taking his company off the market [The Cut]

»Calvin Klein may be using Kirsten Owen, Guinevere van Seenus, and Agyness Deyn in a new CK One campaign [Fashionista]

»Full Givenchy and Loewe Resort 2009 collections [Style.com, Style.com]