Rodarte Spring 2009: Making It Big

Wed, 09/10/08 — 09:48:52 PM

>> When Natalie Portman comes to the show, Keira Knightley hits up the after party, and Anna Wintour brings Bee — who usually only goes to Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler — along, you know Rodarte is really starting to make it big. Even Vogue Italia's editor-in-chief, Franca Sozzani, had a little trouble getting in — apparently, she tried to follow Anna and Bee through the velvet rope, but the PR staff wouldn't allow it.

Onto the clothes: They followed the same thought process as the Fall 2008 collection, but with a few key changes — the colors, the shoes (those treacherous shoes, made by Nicholas Kirkwood instead of Christian Louboutin this season), and the leggings, which were leather instead of knit, and although they looked laser cut, were entirely handmade.  Some think the look veered into Balenciaga territory, but me?  I'm just enjoying the view.  
*image: source

Alexander Wang: Now Anna Wintour-Approved

Sun, 09/07/08 — 12:17:46 AM

>> Alexander Wang's sweat-inspired Spring 2009 collection, featuring shiny-faced models, was quite appropriate — yesterday had the fashion crowd dripping from heat, and today, Tropical Storm Hanna blew in just in time for Alex's show.

Not that the weather would keep anyone away; Anna Wintour attended Alex's show for the first time ever — a symbol of his quick rise. As the lights went down, the sunglasses went on, and she only broke pose a couple of times — once to consult Virginia Smith's program, and the other to fiddle with her BlackBerry.

The show was definitely a different experience, now that Alex has moved on from Erin Wasson, collaborating with stylist Alastair McKimm instead, but all of the classic Wang elements — zippers, leather, a slouchy, downtown feel — were all there. The only major slip up was at the end, when all the models — stellar cast, I might add (Jourdan Dunn!) — took their final tour and got stopped up returning backstage. We're talking line of models, basically at a standstill, at the end of the show. Alex skipped out, did his usual jump and punch the air routine. And then Anna ran out.

To get the full experience, check out the runway video on Elle.com.
*image: source

DNA Models, 1 Model Management Involved in Denisa Dvorakova Shuffle, Scuffle

Fri, 08/01/08 — 10:04:22 AM

>> Squabbling amongst modeling agencies is nothing new — everyone wants the primo girls, after all.  A couple of months ago, DNA Models's head booker Louie Chaban sent shockwaves around when he booked it over to Women Model Management, with rumors following after that he took Agyness Deyn with him (even though she's currently listed on DNA's board).

Now, DNA Models is having more booker trouble. 1 Model Management filed suit last week against the agency, alleging that DNA hired one of its former bookers, Vivien Wang, despite the fact that she signed an agreement to not work for any of 1MM's competitors for one year she left DNA in May.

And here's the rub: Vivien she took Denisa Dvorakova, an up-and-coming model who walked most of the big couture shows in July (Chanel, Christian Dior, Valentino, Christian Lacroix) with her to DNA. Losing a promising talent in the month before the fashion weeks hurts.
*image: source

Alessandra Facchinetti Tries Her Hand at Valentino Couture for Fall 2008

Wed, 07/02/08 — 01:22:06 PM

>> Alessandra Facchinetti's first couture collection at Valentino represents a nerve-racking, generational hand-off, but Giorgio Armani was there in the front row to lend support and represent the old guard. 

The collection had the palpable feel of a different designer, as it should — more structure and pared-down tailoring, with most of the detail left to the back of the garments, and more subdued colors than the pastels Valentino had been playing with. However, Alessandra did stay true to the three most guiding parts of the Valentino aesthetic: femininity, ruffles, and of course, Valentino red.  In fact, that same Valentino red painted the final look of the collection — a stunning chiffon number.

*image: source

Karl Lagerfeld Goes Organ-ic for Chanel Fall 2008 Couture

Tue, 07/01/08 — 11:32:22 AM

>> Seeing a Chanel couture collection is a thrill, but the clothes are always rivaled by what new, huge installation Karl Lagerfeld has plopped in the center of le Grand Palais for the models to stream out of.  In recent seasons, there's been a giant tweed jacket and a larger-than-life carousel; This time around, it was a gigantic set of organ pipes

The show started with a fugue of ominous organ music, and together with the central pipe installation and the tube-like detailing on many of the intricate dresses, reflected the inspiration which had come to Karl during a concert. 

Enjoy the big production while it lasts, folks — word is Karl is talking about reducing the Chanel shows to be more intimate experiences in the future.
*image: source

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