fashionologie

Paul Rowland Snaps 19 Models for Witchy 96-Page V Supplement

fashionologie — Fri, 21 Aug 2009 13:09:35 -0700

>> The 96-page September issue insert The Imagist teased back in June turned out to be for V: Paul Rowland, founder of Women and Supreme agencies, photographed 19 of his models in studio back in April with help from stylist Nicholas Grasa. His inspirations were "Joel-Peter Witkin, paganism, mysticism, vampires, witches - all the things I love," and V has a video of the shoot in action, which required Hannelore Knuts to have raw meat draped over her chest and the rope holding it together lit on fire on both ends. The supplement will be available with V61 in select cities.

Maybe this whole project is the start of a move into a new arena for Rowland? As V puts it: "Rowland, whose lavish and intricate agency show packages are the talk of the industry each season, has a creative verve that extends beyond model agency moving and shaking, and into photography and fine art. After this outing, however, he might need his own magazine as well."

Phillip Lim Sews Up Another Crowd Pleaser for Spring 2009

fashionologie — Thu, 11 Sep 2008 21:34:29 -0700

>> Phillip Lim created the mascot skirt of Fashion Week earlier this year - not kidding, I've seen it on at least one person every day this week - and if the attendance to his newest collection's presentation is any indication, Spring 2009 will be smooth sailing for 3.1 Phillip Lim - the Tent was packed to the gills with fans, including friends Richard Chai and Irina Lazareanu, both sitting front row.

Christian Louboutin designed ruffled heels for the collection, eliciting covetousness in many - in fact, the whole Spring 2009 season is about ruffles for Phillip. The treatment in some of the dresses and skirts reminded me of a tamed version of Marc Jacobs's Spring 2007 ruffles, but among the hazy smoke that hovered on the runway, the real standouts emerged - the stiff, open-edged zipper pieces, and the jewelry Eddie Borgo made for the occasion.
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Rodarte Spring 2009: Making It Big

fashionologie — Wed, 10 Sep 2008 21:48:52 -0700

>> When Natalie Portman comes to the show, Keira Knightley hits up the after party, and Anna Wintour brings Bee - who usually only goes to Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler - along, you know Rodarte is really starting to make it big. Even Vogue Italia's editor-in-chief, Franca Sozzani, had a little trouble getting in - apparently, she tried to follow Anna and Bee through the velvet rope, but the PR staff wouldn't allow it.

Onto the clothes: They followed the same thought process as the Fall 2008 collection, but with a few key changes - the colors, the shoes (those treacherous shoes, made by Nicholas Kirkwood instead of Christian Louboutin this season), and the leggings, which were leather instead of knit, and although they looked laser cut, were entirely handmade. Some think the look veered into Balenciaga territory, but me? I'm just enjoying the view.
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Marc Jacobs Wears Skirt, Shows Skirts for Spring 2009

fashionologie — Tue, 09 Sep 2008 00:45:30 -0700

>> For the second season in a row, Marc Jacobs started his show promptly, just ten minutes after its scheduled start - only this time, half the attendees weren't locked out - everyone had learned their lesson. "Ladies and gentlemen, please take your seats. The show is about to begin."

Through swinging mirror doors, the models walked the mirror-lined runway from every direction, funhouse illusions abounding. But show tactics aside, with Marc, it always comes down to the clothes - the mashed-up, layered, bangled clothes, sparkling, plaided, and sheened. As Gershwin played in the background, Marc took us in a whole new direction - and he did it while wearing a skirt.

To get the full experience, check out the runway video at Elle.com.
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Proenza Schouler Takes Dellal Downtown for Spring 2009

fashionologie — Mon, 08 Sep 2008 22:38:51 -0700

>> Alice Dellal may have been a special guest at Alexander Wang, but she was there in spirit at Proenza Schouler - the sideswept wavy hair, red lip, leathers, zippers, and crop tops shown were all reminiscent of her look. She may have been a starting point, but the collection had a downtown refinement that you would never seen in Alice - she revels too much in the grunge. All I have to say is: So many fun, billowy jumpsuits, so little time. And don't forget to check out the accessories - they're part of Jack and Lazaro's first full season effort.

To get the full experience, check out the runway video at Elle.com.
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Costello Tagliapietra Spring 2009: Anchored in Lady, With a Touch of Butch

fashionologie — Mon, 08 Sep 2008 18:24:01 -0700

>> The third time was the charm for Costello Tagliapietra yesterday - after starting and stopping the runway music two times, the second of which included dimming the lights, the show finally got under way for the third and final time an hour after its scheduled start. Lucky for Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra, their designs made it worth the wait.

Their tailored lady got some edge, courtesy of Philip Crangi's black leather accessories and an airbrushed-on tattoo . Each girl sported a blue anchor with her initials under it, Miu Miu Fall 2008-style, to match the designers' own anchor and initial tattoos, and Christina Kruse got to show off the big cobra tattooed on her arm. An unconventional fabric choice - ultrasuede - gave a matte contrast to all the shiny charmeuse, and unexpected color combinations gave a real zing to the lineup. The only major problem came from the shoes, made by Giuseppe Zanotti for the show - a lot of girls had trouble navigating them, and Georgina Stojilkovic came close to falling.

*image: source