fashionologie

Proenza Schouler Fall 2010: Graffiti Pants, Schoolgirl Skirts - And Anna Wintour Watching Without Her Sunglasses On

fashionologie — Wed, 17 Feb 2010 20:12:21 -0800

>> If you didn't get enough late '90s references at Alexander Wang, look to Proenza Schouler to fill your Fall 2010 quota. Newcomer Ann Kenny - who has the most arresting blue eyes - opened the show in high-waisted graffiti pants, made in collaboration with J Brand, and a shrunken navy toggle jacket. All the John Fleuvog-style curved platform heels and sheer thigh highs paired with full pleated school girl-style miniskirts must have caught Anna Wintour's attention - she sat next to Bee Shaffer the entire show, sunglasses-less (a first?), until the final runthrough when she finally put her trademark shades on.

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez had the house packed: benches arranged around the X-shaped runway sat as many as they could possibly fit - with the likes of Pamela Love, Mary-Kate Olsen, Jen Brill, Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, Carine Roitfeld (in green furry heels), Joseph Altuzarra, Lauren Santo Domingo, Vanessa Traina, Chloe Sevigny, Craig McDean, Terry Richardson, and Olivier Zahm all accounted for. Bass pumped through Milk Studios loud enough to shake the walls, while fuzzy printed flannel dresses and alpine knits evolved into razor-sharp cropped jackets and finally, patterned minidresses with bubble skirts and trapeze shapes.

Marie Chaix styled once again, and if you're a fan of straight-off-the-runway (many front-rowers had their PS 1 clutches handy), for the next 24-odd hours, two of the runway handbags are available for purchase. Post-show, a sight: Hamish Bowles, in his usual dapper suit, but instead of his usual brogues, his trousers stuffed into shiny black wellies. A video of the show can be seen here.

Pheobe Philo's First Celine Runway Collection for Spring 2010: The Reviews Are In

fashionologie — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 13:35:59 -0700

>> For her first runway show since leaving Chloe in 2006 to focus on motherhood, Phoebe Philo sent out a fast-marching group of models swaddled in earth tones, clunky wood wedges, modified trenches, military details, lots of leather, and curiously few handbags, despite Celine's accessory-brand heritage. Bound inspiration books from Philo, containing photos of Kurt Cobain, disco balls, and work by David Sims and Helmut Newton were placed on every seat.

The mood of the collection, one of the season's most anticipated, Philo described as “purposeful and positive.” Backstage, while holding her five-year-old daughter, Maya, who attended the show with Philo's husband, she went on: "I wanted to clean it up, refocus, and present a strong, powerful woman." And of all the expectation: "It's just the beginning. It felt like, just take it easy, just start easy. It's nice to have the bubble of expectations burst. That feels good. Sometimes what people get into their head is unachievable."

In the front row were top photographers David Sims, Mario Testino, Craig McDean; Pucci designer Peter Dundas, who called the collection "wonderful"; and top LVMH brass, including Bernard Arnault, who stood to applaud Philo afterward. As Suzy Menkes put it, "This was an important exercise in making Celine fashion credible. And that was mission accomplished."

fashionologie — Thu, 06 Aug 2009 17:17:13 -0700

>> More September Issue Dish: A New LOVE Preview and a Whole Muse Devoted to Natasha Poly -LOVE just released a new preview featuring 13-year-old blogger Tavi of Style Rookie in addition to the first one from earlier this week . Add Twilight's Taylor Lautner, Taylor Swift, and the Willis Sisters - who were photographed back in May - to the list of "New Blood" featured; so far, the only fashion kids listed are Alexander Wang and Allegra Versace. Meanwhile, it the spirit of the recent influx of model-dedicated issues, Muse is devoting their entire Fall/Winter 2009 issue to Natasha Poly: among the contributors are Richard Phillips, and if it coincides with a clue on The Imagist, Craig McDean and Terry Richardson, as well. [The Moment, The Imagist]

fashionologie — Tue, 30 Jun 2009 14:42:30 -0700

>> Stylist Tabitha Simmons's Shoe Collection Find an Exclusive Home at Bergdorf -Stylist and Vogue contributing editor Tabitha Simmons nervously launched her eponymous shoe line during Paris Fashion Week in March, while husband and photographer Craig McDean walked fans like Karen Elson through the collection. Later, she told the New York Times of the line: "I wanted to do styles that were timeless - no crazy heels or platforms that tie them to one season. These are English walking boots, crossed with a Scottish Highland influence. I’ve also done sexy sandals and girly Mary Janes. It’s a little schizophrenic, the line." The collection - of which The Cut has a gallery - arrives exclusively at Bergdorf Goodman next month, and ranges from $795 to $2,200. [The Cut]
*image: Lee Clower

Jourdan Dunn, Edita Vilkeviciute, and Jac Are All Fall 2009 Calvin Klein Girls

fashionologie — Wed, 17 Jun 2009 15:46:50 -0700

>> While Calvin Klein is sticking to Eva Mendes for their Fall 2009 Underwear ads - and giving her the Calvin Klein Jeans campaign as well - they're switching it up for the rest of the cadre. Jourdan Dunn and Sigrid Agren paired up for the CK Calvin Klein set by Craig McDean, who also photographed the Calvin Klein campaign with Jamie Dornan and Edita Vilkeviciute. And the Calvin Klein Collection set was done by David Sims with brand exclusive Monica "Jac" Jagaciak, who opened and closed the brand's Fall 2009 show. Get used to these images - they're appearing on 1,080 pages globally.

Marc Jacobs Gets Bunny Ears, Jason Wu Wears a Dress for 2009 CFDA Journal

fashionologie — Tue, 02 Jun 2009 11:07:21 -0700

>> This year's CFDA Awards are coming up on June 15, and for the accompanying CFDA Journal, which is handed out at the ceremony and showcases all the nominees, Craig McDean and Karl Templer enlisted all 21 designers to model their own work (last year, Raquel Zimmermann did the honors).

Womenswear Designer of the Year nominees Laura and Kate Mulleavy of Rodarte go rosy-cheeked, International Award winner for Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, sports a pair of the bunny ears from his latest show, Accessory Designer of the Year nominees Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez wear their handbags like boxing gloves - perhaps a cheeky nod to recent events - and Swarovski Womenswear Designer nominee Jason Wu layered one of his evening gowns over a suit, playing on the Fred Astaire-Ginger Rogers duality of himself and his designs.

While the Journal won't be available for public consumption, the CFDA has introduced a Popular Vote Award this year, so that anyone can nominate their favorite designer to win until June 9.

fashionologie — Mon, 18 May 2009 16:34:52 -0700

>> IN THE LOOKING GLASS -The upcoming June 2009 issue of W features a 30-page editorial: a portfolio of the season's best new faces, as chosen by Craig McDean, with Karlie Kloss and Sigrid Agren heavy on rotation; appropriately, Sigrid is said to have her first major cover out this week. Four girls are rumored not to have made the final cut, but Ranya Mordanova, Rose Cordero, Madisyn Ritland, Bara Holotova, Jourdan Dunn, Viktoriya Sasonkina, Karlie Kloss, Amanda Laine, Imogen Morris-Clarke, Dorothea Barth Jorgensen, and Nimue Smit all did - Models.com has a trio of previews. [Models.com, Models.com, Models.com, NY Model Management]

Kate Moss: Launching Topshop in New York, Maybe Engaged?

fashionologie — Tue, 24 Mar 2009 15:44:03 -0700

>> Kate Moss is still very much in business - that photoshoot with Craig McDean in Paris last week was for a future Yves Saint Laurent women's fragrance, she recently had buckets of water thrown in her face during a Mert & Marcus shoot, and soon she's going to be jetting in to New York to launch that first stateside Topshop store - they've already got racks inside - simultaneously with her ninth collection for the brand, which she's already been wearing out and about, and has garnered fans like Giovanna Bataglia.

But those things might not be the only projects on Kate's plate. In a recent interview with the Telegraph, it appears that Kate slipped up and admitted that she's getting married - why else would she say "the wedding"?

An exquisitely beaded 1920s-style flapper dress that is draped over a chair catches her eye. "Ooh that would be great for the wedding." She pauses, suddenly realising the headline-worthy nature of what she has just said. "Not my wedding. A friend’s. No. I’m not getting married and my boobs haven’t grown because I’m lactating or pregnant."

But back to her Topshop collection - she's says it's evolved since round one.

"The first season was pieces that I loved which had been hanging in my wardrobe that I then tweaked and improved. It was great, but now I can’t wear any of it because, oh my God, all my favourite dresses have a Topshop label in them, ha ha. Now when I come into the office I’ll talk about things that I really want. It’s about what I think I am going to wear next season."

On to more pressing matters: for whom does she dress to impress? »

Kate Moss Not Replacing Claudia Schiffer, But May Have an Yves Saint Laurent Campaign

fashionologie — Tue, 17 Mar 2009 12:15:44 -0700

>> There was speculation that Kate Moss might be collaborating with Karl Lagerfeld on something, but it looks like Yves Saint Laurent may have landed her first. Yesterday, photos of a shoot in Paris - with Kate all decked out in Fall 2009 Yves Saint Laurent, Edward Enninful doing the styling duties, and Craig McDean photographing - appeared, and some wondered if it wasn't the Fall 2009 YSL campaign shoot. A spokesperson has denied that it was - which makes sense, since Stefano Pilati wasn't on set, and was in New York instead the night before - but didn't rule out that it was some kind of campaign shoot. Fragrance campaign seems most likely, since she's holding a single rose to her nose, no? Either that, or perhaps something for the May 2009 issue of Vogue, since the Enninful-McDean combination seems right for that specific magazine, and Kate is co-hosting the Costume Institute Gala that month.
*image: bauer-griffin online

fashionologie — Fri, 16 Jan 2009 15:59:17 -0800

>> ON THE CAMPAIGN TRAIL -Prepare to see even more of Gisele Bundchen than usual - she teamed up with Project (RED) to help fight AIDS, and as a result will be appearing on over 30 February 2009 Elle covers internationally. And if that's not enough of the reigning Brazilian supermodel for you, have a look at her first angular ad for Spring 2009 Christian Dior, shot by Craig McDean. [TFS]