>> For her first runway show since leaving Chloe in 2006 to focus on motherhood, Phoebe Philo sent out a fast-marching group of models swaddled in earth tones, clunky wood wedges, modified trenches, military details, lots of leather, and curiously few handbags, despite Celine's accessory-brand heritage.  Bound inspiration books from Philo, containing photos of Kurt Cobain, disco balls, and work by David Sims and Helmut Newton were placed on every seat.

The mood of the collection, one of the season's most anticipated, Philo described as “purposeful and positive.” Backstage, while holding her five-year-old daughter, Maya, who attended the show with Philo's husband, she went on: "I wanted to clean it up, refocus, and present a strong, powerful woman." And of all the expectation: "It's just the beginning. It felt like, just take it easy, just start easy. It's nice to have the bubble of expectations burst. That feels good. Sometimes what people get into their head is unachievable."

In the front row were top photographers David Sims, Mario Testino, Craig McDean; Pucci designer Peter Dundas, who called the collection "wonderful"; and top LVMH brass, including Bernard Arnault, who stood to applaud Philo afterward. As Suzy Menkes put it, "This was an important exercise in making Celine fashion credible. And that was mission accomplished."

>> While Calvin Klein is sticking to Eva Mendes for their Fall 2009 Underwear ads — and giving her the Calvin Klein Jeans campaign as well — they're switching it up for the rest of the cadre. Jourdan Dunn and Sigrid Agren paired up for the CK Calvin Klein set by Craig McDean, who also photographed the Calvin Klein campaign with Jamie Dornan and Edita Vilkeviciute. And the Calvin Klein Collection set was done by David Sims with brand exclusive Monica "Jac" Jagaciak, who opened and closed the brand's Fall 2009 show.  Get used to these images — they're appearing on 1,080 pages globally.

>> This year's CFDA Awards are coming up on June 15, and for the accompanying CFDA Journal, which is handed out at the ceremony and showcases all the nominees, Craig McDean and Karl Templer enlisted all 21 designers to model their own work (last year, Raquel Zimmermann did the honors).

Womenswear Designer of the Year nominees Laura and Kate Mulleavy of Rodarte go rosy-cheeked, International Award winner for Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, sports a pair of the bunny ears from his latest show, Accessory Designer of the Year nominees Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez wear their handbags like boxing gloves — perhaps a cheeky nod to recent events — and Swarovski Womenswear Designer nominee Jason Wu layered one of his evening gowns over a suit, playing on the Fred Astaire-Ginger Rogers duality of himself and his designs.

While the Journal won't be available for public consumption, the CFDA has introduced a Popular Vote Award this year, so that anyone can nominate their favorite designer to win until June 9.

>> There was speculation that Kate Moss might be collaborating with Karl Lagerfeld on something, but it looks like Yves Saint Laurent may have landed her first. Yesterday, photos of a shoot in Paris — with Kate all decked out in Fall 2009 Yves Saint Laurent, Edward Enninful doing the styling duties, and Craig McDean photographing — appeared, and some wondered if it wasn't the Fall 2009 YSL campaign shoot.  A spokesperson has denied that it was — which makes sense, since Stefano Pilati wasn't on set, and was in New York instead the night before — but didn't rule out that it was some kind of campaign shoot.  Fragrance campaign seems most likely, since she's holding a single rose to her nose, no?  Either that, or perhaps something for the May 2009 issue of Vogue, since the Enninful-McDean combination seems right for that specific magazine, and Kate is co-hosting the Costume Institute Gala that month.
*image: bauer-griffin online

>> Alexander McQueen's Fall 2008 ad campaign — his first since 2003 — may be mighty fashionably late, but the first images are finally here.  The campaign, shot by Craig McDean in New York and styled by Tabitha Simmons, features Alice McGibb as gothic bird, tangled among the sticks of a giant bird nest.
*image: source