fashionologie

All the Resort 2012 Ad Campaigns, So Far

fashionologie — Thu, 03 Nov 2011 07:44:40 PDT

>> It's just about that time of year when Resort collections start hitting the stores, and the campaigns are starting to pour in. See Arizona Muse swing for Louis Vuitton, Jac Jagaciak go Brigitte Bardot under the guidance of Ellen von Unwerth's lens for Christian Dior, Natasha Poly grope a nude statue for Fendi, and Guinevere van Seenus's creepy turn for Miu Miu - all the Resort 2012 campaigns so far, in the slideshow.

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Bottega Veneta Spring 2012

fashionologie — Sat, 24 Sep 2011 18:20:27 PDT

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Will Kate Moss Be in Louis Vuitton's Fall 2011 Ad Campaign? Plus, More Casting Rumors

fashionologie — Tue, 12 Apr 2011 12:33:05 PDT

>> The latest Fall 2011 campaign scuttlebutt: Isabeli Fontana is taking the early lead, with campaigns for Escada and Donna Karan booked, and a rumored appearance for Bottega Veneta as well. Karan's campaign, which was captured by Patrick Demarchelier the past three seasons, was snapped by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin for Fall 2011.

Meanwhile, Steven Meisel shot (and Karl Templer styled) the Fall 2011 Louis Vuitton campaign in New York yesterday - but there will reportedly be no Kate Moss appearance as there was on the runway. In fact, no supermodels will be featured at all: Instead, the six models chosen are said to be from the current generation - "Top 50-ish, a bit new. Nothing from the Icon list." Daphne Groeneveld and Fei Fei Sun are rumored to be among them.

Kate Moss has reportedly been cast for another Fall 2011 campaign for Mango; however, it will be shot by Terry Richardson and is today, making lots of appearances on his blog.

Versace, like Donna Karan, is also switching up photographers - after going with Mario Testino for the past eight seasons, Donatella Versace has chosen Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott to do the Fall 2011 honors (with styling by Joe McKenna). Originally, the Versace campaign, like Vuitton, was reportedly supposed to feature six models, including Candice Swanepoel and Groeneveld, but the photographers are rumored to have settled instead on one girl with "short dark hair" who is a "cover star." Some are thinking that might indicate Saskia de Brauw as Versace's new girl.

To round out the Fall 2011 campaign placements so far, Juergen Teller shot Irina Kulikova yesterday for Moschino at Turin's Ristorante del Cambio, Ralph Lauren has reportedly cast its runway opener Sui He, and Liu Wen is rumored to be in the upcoming Dolce & Gabbana campaign.

A few images from the various shoots in the gallery.

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Si Newhouse on Ousting Anna Wintour From Vogue - "Never. I Hope She's Here 10 Years From Now"

fashionologie — Wed, 23 Mar 2011 11:27:14 PDT

>> Mario Testino photographed Anna Wintour for the April 2011 cover of WSJ. - likely at her request (he often shoots Vogue's covers). Because if there's one thing about Wintour, it's that she does things on her own terms.

Si Newhouse (chairman of Advance Publications, which owns Vogue) attests with an anecdote about a Fashion's Night Out meeting Wintour held in Paris, which had 30 international Vogue editors and publishers in attendance: "It was the first time anybody had gotten them all together. She didn't need my authority to do it - she has a remarkable ability to impose her will. If I had had reservations, she probably would have gone ahead anyway."

Marc Jacobs, too, confirms: "If I get a request for something I don't want to do, first I get an email, then a phone call from someone at Vogue, and now I don't even bother to say no - I know the next call is from her." And New York City mayor Michael Bloomberg, who Wintour has worked with on a number of initiatives - including Fashion's Night Out - says: "Behind all Anna's grace and poise is some pretty tough resolve. She's not a person you want to say no to."

Even the Costume Institute has bowed to Wintour's requests (she has raised a grand total of $75 million for the organization, after all). For last year's gala, she had a 30-foot hot-air balloon trucked in from South Dakota to float above the museum's Engelhard Court. "When we first saw it, we go, 'Never! We can't have gas in the museum!' " says Met president Emily Rafferty. "Anna's changed our attitude - she's brought us to new levels of thinking of what we can do, but without ever losing sight that we're working in a museum context here."

Needless to say, Wintour's reach extends much further than fashion. Harvey Weinstein, who has known Wintour for 15 years (and more recently married Marchesa's Georgina Chapman), notes: "I'm a streak player, but Anna's there, good or bad. When I wasn't doing so well, Anna would throw a party and put me next to Bernard Arnault." Although he declined to be specific, Weinstein said that he had several business deals come out of that party. And Baz Luhrmann, who just recently cast Wintour favorite Carey Mulligan to star in his upcoming film adaptation of The Great Gatsby, says: "I always talk to Anna about what I'm up to, and I always listen to what she has to say."

Within fashion, too, Wintour is more than just an editor. As Francois-Henri Pinault, head of PPR, says: "She tackles things that are really much bigger than what any other editors take on." Because of Wintour, Pinault is currently discussing how to financially support young designers with the French government. But Wintour never straight-out asks him to do something: "She's much more subtle than that."

She's also something of a matchmaker - whether it's designer to brand (in the case of placing John Galliano at Christian Dior back in 1996; Bernard Arnault - chairman of LVMH, which owns Dior - says of Wintour: "She pointed us towards unexpected choices. I speak very openly to her, and this was quite audacious - it was not about picking the big names of the moment. It took her to see that there was a stylistic closeness between John and Dior. She was the discoverer.") or brand to financier (in the case of Bottega Veneta and Gucci Group or Michael Kors and Sportswear Holdings). "She does this very discreetly, but she's really a kind of consigliere to the entire fashion and retail industry," one former colleague who worked closely with Wintour says. Another former colleague, who attended several corporate matchmaking meetings with Wintour, adds: "I came to realize that she's really the McKinsey of fashion." As for Wintour's word on the matter? "We can suggest," she says, "but in the end, everybody makes up their own minds."

It sounds like Wintour isn't going anywhere anytime soon. Vogue is Conde Nast's most profitable publication, Si Newhouse confirms, adding that he has no successor in mind: "Never. I hope she's here 10 years from now, 20 years from now." Wintour, for her part, says: "With all the new media outlets out there, with all the noise, a voice of authority and calm like Vogue becomes more important than ever. The more eyes on fashion, the more opinions about fashion, the more exploration of fashion around the world, the better it is for Vogue. Vogue is like Nike or Coca-Cola - this huge global brand. I want to enhance it, I want to protect it, and I want it to be part of the conversation."

A few more quotables from the WSJ. profile:

Marc Jacobs on Wintour's cold reputation: "She gets such a bad rap. She stands by the people she believes in, and if you're not one of those people, perhaps you take a different view."

Wintour's take on her reputation: "I care deeply about my friends and my family and they know it, but work is work."

Wintour on cover choice regrets: "I'm not terribly proud of putting the Spice Girls on the cover."

Wintour on the John Galliano scandal: "This is all so tragic."

Wintour on being criticized for using the same people in Vogue: "I try to remain open to new people, but obviously there's a stronger element of trust with people you've known for a long time. I think we have a Vogue vocabulary, and there are certain people we like to have as the backbone of the magazine - Vogue's signposts. We try very hard to integrate the familiar signatures with people we feel are new and up-and-coming, but I would rather err on the side of being a little more familiar than being too . . . What's the right word? . . . Edgy."

WSJ. on Wintour's morning habits: "When I met Wintour in her big, artfully tidy office at Vogue, she had been up since 5 am - her normal waking hour. On most days she goes off to play tennis at 6, but lately she's been nursing a sore elbow and can't play. Which didn't mean no tennis."

The Most Covetable Shoes and Bags From Fall 2011 Milan Fashion Week!

Chi Diem Chau — Tue, 01 Mar 2011 08:57:08 PST

>> If the clothing from Milan Fashion Week left you in awe, wait until you zoom in on the shoes and bags. D&G went all out funky with bright orange high-top wedge sneakers, Bottega Veneta created a feathered leather clutch, and Prada re-imagined the quirky shoe boot. But there's more - check the slideshow for more of our faves from Jil Sander, Fendi, Versace, and Pucci!

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Bottega Veneta Fall 2011

fashionologie — Sat, 26 Feb 2011 10:41:43 PST

Source: Catwalking

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See Crystal Renn for DSquared2, Leighton Meester for Missoni, Sarah Burton's First Alexander McQueen Ad, Plus More

fashionologie — Tue, 11 Jan 2011 11:43:19 PST

>> Crystal Renn is following up her Chanel and Jean Paul Gaultier campaigns last season with another campaign one-two punch for Spring 2011: Jimmy Choo and the newly-released DSquared2 set, in which she is joined by Anna Maria Jagodzinska, Sun Fei Fei, Hailey Clauson, and Monika Sawicka. Put that together with the new Missoni Spring 2011 ads, which feature the Missoni family along with Leighton Meester and social personalities like Tatiano Santo Domingo and Camilla Al Fayed, Freja Beha Erichsen's Valentino ads, a first look at Mariacarla Boscono for Loewe, and Sarah Burton's first Alexander McQueen campaign featuring Lindsey Wixson, and you've got the sum whole of the latest Spring 2011 ad campaigns.

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New on the Spring 2011 Campaign Front - Lara Stone for Calvin Klein, Daria Werbowy for Celine, and a New Karmen for Michael Kors

fashionologie — Mon, 10 Jan 2011 11:36:43 PST

>> After seasons and seasons of Carmen Kass-fronted ads, Michael Kors has switched to another Estonian-born Karmen this season: Karmen Pedaru, who Kors paired with Simon Nessman for his Spring 2011 ad campaign. “They’re both youthful and elegant all at once - which makes them so very Michael Kors,” the designer explained. A first look at that - plus Daria Werbowy for Celine by Juergen Teller (left), and Lara Stone exercising her Calvin Klein exclusive for the second season running - among the latest batch of Spring 2011 ad images.

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Even More Spring 2011 Ads Have Turned Up - A Look at Dior, Prada, Armani, Bottega Veneta, and More

fashionologie — Tue, 04 Jan 2011 10:38:10 PST

>> The deluge continues; after yesterday's introduction to the Spring 2011 Chanel, Tom Ford, and Marc by Marc Jacobs campaigns, today brings another onslaught - Karlie Kloss's third straight campaign as face of Christian Dior; a first look at Kasia Struss for Miu Miu (Sasha Pivovarova and Querelle Jansen are also said to have been cast by the label); and perhaps our favorite campaign of the season so far, Alex Prager's take on Karolina Kurkova for Bottega Veneta, left.

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Bottega Veneta's Tomas Maier Rails on It Bags, Designer Cult of Personalities Like Karl Lagerfeld

fashionologie — Thu, 30 Dec 2010 11:48:57 PST

>> To say Tomas Maier is a perfectionist is an understatement - The New Yorker just profiled him, and when writer John Colapinto went to visit the designer at Bottega Veneta's Milan headquarters, one of the PRs inspected Colapinto beforehand, picking off a "microscopic" piece of lint and commenting: "Oh, God. If that's there, he won't be able to think of anything else." In fact, Maier, who is now 53, dropped the "h" from his first name in his thirties, for symmetry's sake.

Maier refuses to live in Milan, "a city whose many design flaws he finds too frustrating to bear," Colapinto writes, so he spends a lot of time in airports between his home in Florida and the Bottega office in Milan. "I just sit there [at the airport] and look at people and I see what's the malfunction and how can we help that man," Maier says. "I pity him! That he makes his life so miserable - himself! - by carrying some ill-functioning bag that rips his jacket half off and gives him a bad shoulder ache at the end of the day. And it makes him look an idiot on top of everything."

Under Maier's guidance, Bottega - which was "weeks from bankruptcy" when he started, he says - has seen sales increase 800 percent in the past nine years. And part of that can be attributed to the Cabat bag Maier created - one of the label's top-selling items - which features no logos, no hardware, and no adornments, but carries a six-thousand dollar price tag. It's something of an anti-It It Bag.

"The It Bag is a totally marketed bullshit crap," Maier says. "You make a bag, you put all the components in it that you think could work, you send it out to a couple of celebrities, you get the paparazzi to shoot just when they walk out of their house. You sell that to the cheap tabloids, and you say in a magazine that there's a waiting list. And you run an ad campaign at the same time. I don't believe that's how you make something that's lasting - that becomes iconic as a design."

Maier sends the Cabat down the runway every year, unchanged, except for a difference in color or leather treatment. Only about 500 are made each season, which invariably sell out, and although Bergdorf Goodman and other luxury retailers have pleaded with Maier, he refuses to sell the Cabat bag anywhere but at Bottega Veneta stores.

When he first joined Bottega, Maier notified his bosses at Gucci Group (which owns the label), that in his first year designing for the brand, he would give no interviews and run no advertising. He also didn't want his name attached. "At that time in the nineties, lots of companies were called Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, Dior by John Galliano - you know, everything had an endless name," he explains. He hates the idea of designer cult of personality - of Karl Lagerfeld, for instance, he says: "Who cares how thin he is? Hasn't he reached a point in life where he can relax."

He's also anti-materialism: "I'm not somebody who likes to possess. I'm not the person who has six hundred suits. I want to have two suits. Actually, I want to have one suit, and I replace it." He applies that feeling to how people should shop, insisting that Bottega's goods are not beyond the reach of the middle class, which has been trained to want too many things. "Anyone, he said, could afford one $550 hand-painted cashmere scarf," Colapinto writes. "'Just have less,'" he said."