>> INSIDER WIRE —It seems like Bill Blass's new owners aren't in as much of a rush to get back in the game as they initially appeared to be. When Richard Chai's name was tossed around for the head job back in March, owner Peacock Holdings said they would announced the new creative director within a month, but months later, still only a "we're talking to people, but there's nothing I can divulge" response to inquiries.  A Spring 2010 show in September is becoming less and less likely . . . although the official word is: "We're still figuring things out, so we'll keep you updated." [FWD]

>> Last we heard, Bill Blass was sold after Peter Som left and the new owners Peacock International Holdings filed bankruptcy, with eventual plans to start the line back up.  Then, last week, the search for a new creative director was revealed to be on, with plans to relaunch later this year.

Several industry sources are now indicating that Richard Chai may be the man to take over — he is supposedly in talks with Peacock.  "I'm afraid we can't comment at the moment," was a Chai spokesperson's response to the rumors, and Peacock's executive vice president of licensing and sales also declined to give any information: "We can't comment on who we're interviewing for the position."  He did, however, confirm that the new creative director would be announced in a month or so.

Chai definitely has the right look for the brand — modern American sportswear — plus the support of retailers and editors, particularly Anna Wintour, so it won't be a surprise if he's chosen for the job.
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>> He filled in as chief designer at Bill Blass for the Spring 2008 season before Peter Som took over, and was set to produce the Fall 2009 Blass collection after Som left until things with the label fell apart.  Now former Blass design director Prabal Gurung is striking out on his own with a signature label for Fall 2009, his first show kicking off Fashion Week Feb. 12.  And judging by the pre-show coverage — WWD, Wall Street Journal, Vanity Fair, Fashion Week Daily — he'll do just fine, even in a recession.

Working out of his makeshift showroom — an on-loan studio apartment that belongs to an editor friend — Gurung, who has been selling made-to-measure to private clients for a few years, is putting the finishing touches on his self-funded, twenty-look collection, which he says is all about "well-made clothes": "At Bill Blass, I learned the way clothes are supposed to be made — there are no shortcuts. Just well-finished clothes. That’s the kind of approach I’m taking — it’s not about being trendy."

It helps that he already has the industry support — "It’s been very emotional, the amount of support I’ve gotten, without asking" — and scoring coveted casting agent James Scully and T Magazine and former British Vogue stylist Tiina Laakkonen to cast and style the show, respectively, won't hurt.  Now it's all about bringing that sketch of four of his Fall 2009 looks to life — we'll be watching.
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>> There was a little confusion yesterday over how new Bill Blass owner Peacock International Holdings was going to resurrect the Bill Blass Couture line as planned, since they didn't purchase the Couture line as part of their deal.  

As Scott Patti, Peacock's executive vice president of licensing and sales explains, the company chose not to purchase the couture line because "it wasn't healthy."  Peacock did, however, buy the right to use the Bill Blass name for any future couture and ready-to-wear lines.  The bankruptcy filed yesterday was just to clear the way for the new ready-to-wear line, which is still expected to be in place within the year.       

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>> Last week it seemed like NexCen had finally gotten Bill Blass sent off in a neat, tidy package all tied up with a bow; new owner Peacock International Holdings even vowed to revive the couture line within the year, new designer and all.  

Only problem is, things weren't quite as perfect as they seemed: Bill Blass Couture wasn't part of Peacock's purchase, so we may not be seeing it again anytime soon.  Instead, Bill Blass Ltd., which manufactures the couture line, filed for bankruptcy liquidation on Dec. 31, with assets listed at $192,000, and debts of $829,000 — they're to the point of selling the office furniture from the showroom.  

What's most confusing about all this is why Peacock appeared to think they were getting the couture line as part of their purchase agreement last week when they talked to The Wall Street Journal . . . did something fall through?
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>> Bill Blass has had a long, bumpy history since its namesake designer left in 1999, the latest setback coming two weeks ago when owners NexCen closed the brand entirely, laying off 60 employees — some of which had been with the label for almost 40 years — with no severance.  

After months of trying to sell the brand to no avail, NexCen has finally found a buyer for Blass — midtier apparel manufacturer Peacock International Holdings, who nabbed the great American sportswear label for a steal — $10 million, compared to the $25 million NexCen was looking for in September.  

Although few expected Peacock to revive the Bill Blass Couture line that Peter Som left in October with no successor and for which NexCen declined to produce a Spring 2009 collection, the new owner has plans to bring the ready-to-wear back "within nine to 12 months."  Peacock already has some designers in mind to restart the collection but won't name names, noting that they will be choosing carefully: "You need somebody with a vision that really ties in to the Bill Blass DNA — and you need consistency, someone who will be in place beyond a year or two."
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>> Bill Blass has been on its last breath for a while now, particularly since Peter Som departed due to the brand's financial constraints in October.  Parent company Nexcen has been unable to sell the brand, and late last month, the brand was liquidated.  Now, reports come that the company will close its showroom and the remaining staff will leave this week.

The company canceled its Spring 2009 collection due to a severe cash squeeze, and Som was never replaced; Nexcen, who is still trying to sell Bill Blass in hopes that the runway collection will be revitalized, is to the point of selling samples from the Bill Blass archives at discounts of 90 percent.  A sad place for the iconic American brand, indeed — all we can hope for is that a buyer will come along and allow Blass to pull a Rochas.
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>> Anna Wintour's words may have mended things for a few months, but ultimately, Peter Som has still decided to part ways with Bill Blass.

Som left the brand after his contract expired a week and a half ago to focus on his own label, and Prabal Gurung, longtime second-ranking design director at Bill Blass, will be working with the existing team to produce the Fall 2009 Blass collection.

As previously reported, Som was unhappy with NexCen, the owners of Bill Blass, because he felt they couldn't financially support his creative vision; The Spring 2009 show was scrapped in favor of a retailer presentation, fabric vendors and embroiderers weren't being paid in a timely manner, and according to an industry source, NexCen "knew very little about how to run a luxury brand, much less rebrand one."

NexCen is still trying to sell Blass, a process that is taking longer than expected — just one more reason Som left.  The delay in sale also caused some retailers to pass on the Spring 2009 Blass collection, due to all the uncertainty.  For a brand that could use the money, that can't be good.
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»Gareth Pugh was asked to do a range for Topshop, but turned it down because he "hate[s] the idea of being in Grazia" [Dazed Digital]

»Roberto Cavalli compares models to "pieces of wood" [The Cut]

»Vanessa Traina appears out and about in Balmain boots with Nicole Richie [PopSugar]

»Karl Lagerfeld, dressed in white with blue striped bib, and Amanda Harlech, spotted in Saint Tropez [Jezebel]

»Did Ralph Lauren's Olympic opening ceremony uniforms embarrass America? [Gawker]

»A recent Bill Blass alum is about to go solo [Style File]

»Anna Selezneva is the Spring 2009 girl to watch [TI]

»Charlotte Ronson, re-imagined as Eli Cash from The Royal Tenenbaums [FabSugar]

»Rodarte among finalists for prestigious Swiss Textiles Award [FWD]

»According to Richie Rich, Heatherette is just taking a breather [The Cut]
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>> The Peter Som-Bill Blass situation is rather turning into a Nina Garcia and Elle-like saga. The latest? Despite Peter submitting his resignation last week, he is now back in talks with Blass owners NexCen about the Spring 2009 collection, thanks to the orchestrative abilities of Anna Wintour.

She coaxed him back on board, "for the sake of the label," which is currently on the selling block, and is much more valuable with Peter Som at the company. A new retention deal was reportedly struck last Thursday; but Som can get out of his contract at any time.

The basis for all the unrest seems to be Nexcen's financial constraints: The company can't support what Som envisioned for Blass. However, the prospect of a Spring 2009 collection shown to retailers only is being tossed around, and if Blass is bought by a company that can lend better financial support, Som is said to be willing to stay.
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