fashionologie

Rag & Bone Earn Their Stripes with Their Fall 2011 Arctic Ski-Inspired Collection

fashionologie — Fri, 11 Feb 2011 23:45:03 PST

>> For the second Fall season in a row, the Rag & Bone boys have created a lot of want in the ten some-odd minutes it takes for their run of show. The futuristic bent that was introduced in their Spring 2011 collection stayed, but this time worked its way into a number of the Rag & Bone staples - cropped fitted jackets, kilts, knee socks, and cape coats. This was mashed together with a newfound fascination with texture: cow hides, nubby knits, neoprenes, shearlings, wools, and fringes were all represented.

As Marcus Wainwright noted backstage, "It started with Inuit people - the indigenous people of the Arctic circle - and on the other side of it, there was a French skiier called Jean-Claude Killy - so '70s ski - and it just went from there." As for the brilliant blue that was used so liberally in the second half of the show - where did that come from? "In looking at all of these pictures of the Arctic and the snow and the sky bounced against it," Wainwright explained, "that unbelievable blue - Klein Blue - that kind of blue of the sky, was just amazing against the ivory and the grey of the beginning [of the show]. It's a fun color."

The cool Rag & Bone girl was well-accounted-for as usual, both front row (Erin Wasson, Jessica Stam, and Alexa Chung), and on the catwalk (Bette Franke, making a runway return after taking a season off, Arizona Muse, Joan Smalls, Fei Fei Sun, Saskia de Brauw, and Britt Maren). Boots tended to be thigh-high and low-heeled. As for the clutches, which were strapped to the models' hands by glove-like contraptions, leaving their fingers free - would those be put into production? "It may well do if people like them," Wainwright answered. "I don't know. We just did it just for the show, we always do those things ourselves, but yeah, probably." He and Neville had both cracked open Peroni beers immediately post-show, while their children ran around backstage. So what's the plan now that the show is finished? "I have had one beer," Wainwright replied. "I'm going to have a few more. I feel pretty good about it. I was excited about the music [done by Thom Yorke], and it's good."

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Proenza Schouler Takes Dellal Downtown for Spring 2009

fashionologie — Mon, 08 Sep 2008 22:38:51 PDT

>> Alice Dellal may have been a special guest at Alexander Wang, but she was there in spirit at Proenza Schouler - the sideswept wavy hair, red lip, leathers, zippers, and crop tops shown were all reminiscent of her look. She may have been a starting point, but the collection had a downtown refinement that you would never seen in Alice - she revels too much in the grunge. All I have to say is: So many fun, billowy jumpsuits, so little time. And don't forget to check out the accessories - they're part of Jack and Lazaro's first full season effort.

To get the full experience, check out the runway video at Elle.com.
*image: source

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Christian Lacroix Bugs Out for Fall 2008 Couture

fashionologie — Tue, 01 Jul 2008 14:38:14 PDT

>> Usually Christian Lacroix's designs are a little too overwrought to speak to me, but something about this set sits just right.

Maybe the scarlet backdrop is to blame, setting off all the intricate detailing with its vivid hue: the peekaboo lace sleeves, the bell-shaped cocktail dresses, the gossamer tufts; or maybe I've just gone buggy for Lacroix's insect-inspired fantasy world. If so, I'm not the only one: the attendees showered the designer with carnations at the end of the show.

*image: source

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Air Guitar and Applause - Backstage at Dries van Noten, Rochas, and Rue du Mail

fashionologie — Thu, 29 Sep 2011 16:20:14 PDT

>> The first full day of Paris Fashion Week shows got off to a lighthearted note backstage - Saskia de Brauw was caught playing air guitar just after walking Rue du Mail, Bette Franke was snapped sniffing Suvi Koponen's necklace pre-Dries van Noten, and a smiling Liu Wen rested herself at the bottom of a spiral staircase behind-the-scenes at Rochas. Those pictures, and more from all three shows, in the gallery.

Photos: Greg Kessler

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Foiled Eyes and Funny Faces - Backstage at Prada, D&G, Fendi, and Alberta Ferretti

fashionologie — Fri, 23 Sep 2011 11:06:56 PDT

>> Gold and silver foiled eyes - and Daphne Groeneveld getting her hair teased sky-high (left) - at Fendi; Jessica Stam and Ymre Stiekema sightings at Prada; plus, Bette Franke making funny faces at D&G. All these shots - including sightings at Alberta Ferretti - in the slideshow.

Photos: Greg Kessler

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A Few Tom Ford Spring 2012 Details

fashionologie — Mon, 19 Sep 2011 09:00:50 PDT

>> Last night, Rachel Zoe, Anna Wintour, and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley joined Tom Ford at Wolfgang Puck’s newly opened Cut restaurant in London just after his Spring 2012 show. Images of the collection won't be released until early next month, but some details have popped up.

The show cast: Abbey Lee Kershaw, Aline Weber, Anais Mali, Anja Rubik, Aymeline Valade, Bette Franke, Candice Swanepoel, Carmen Kass, Caroline Brasch Nielsen, Daphne Groeneveld, Edita Vilkeviciute, Emily Senko, Fei Fei Sun, Jasmine Tookes, Joan Smalls, Kristina Salinovic, Lais Ribeiro, Mirte Maas, Morgane Warnier, Olga Sherer, Sheila Marquez, Sojourner Morrell, and Sui He.

The collection, according to Hamish Bowles: "Amongst the hourglass silhouettes and powerfully sensual effects beloved of Ford fans, since his work at Gucci in the '90s, there was a thread of pre-Raphaelite romanticism in embroidered peasant blouses (of the type Matisse loved to paint) and even frothy, Renaissance-sleeved dresses that evoked the work of the great '60s and '70s London designer Ossie Clark." Also amongst the collection: "a lacquered anemone purple-satin trench coat," "a blush-pink chiffon tracksuit pant," "a cutaway mother-of-pearl wedge," and "the thinnest diamond-crusted heel."

The collection, according to Cathy Horyn: "[It] was loaded up with great day clothes, including loosely laced Moroccan blouses, fringed skirts and some simple but gorgeous dresses with ruching or a belt at the waist and a bubbled hem. A number of outfits also had corsets blended into the tone of the blouse. Equally strong were his evening option of slinky black pants - more like a ski pant - with a simple chiffon t-shirt coated with feathers at the front."

The collection, according to the Telegraph: "Mesh, marabou, raffia fringing, a candlewick effect which suggested long hours at the hand embroiderers, plaited satin ribbons - these were just some of the techniques applied onto those hourglass silhouettes. Throw in bosoms, cupped in cantilevered chiffon, checks, and some snakeskin skirts, and it could have all looked a bit much."

Photos of the dinner attendees, in the slideshow, plus a first peek at the collection from the model board.

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Alexander Wang Brings Back His Signature Black for Fall 2011

fashionologie — Sun, 13 Feb 2011 11:48:33 PST

>> Lots of newness for Alexander Wang this season: a new show formation, with stadium seating bleachers enclosing a diamond shaped runway space; a new Manhattan store (Wang's first retail location) opening imminently; a new location for the manufacture of his signature knitwear, which will now be produced in Italy; and a new line of leather goods (wallets, coin purses, travel cases and the like with clip-on rabbit tails) launched on his runway yesterday evening.

With so much new already on his plate, Wang returned to his roots for Fall 2011, incorporating elements of seasons past (a largely black palette, edgy riffs on tuxedo dressing, zips, padded sportswear, and spats). That's not to say the collection felt like a repeat - there was plenty of new on view: take the snowboard goggle-like sunglasses with mink bands, the glitter jeans and satin pants, the metallic loafers with mud flaps on the back, and the fur-puffed heels, which apparently had to be brushed and blow-dried pre-show.

The inspiration for all of the aforementioned? “It’s about poking fun at luxury and decadence and this idea of stereotypical wealth,” Wang explained. "One of the starting points was this rich bitch. She’s wearing her super satiny pajamas with the big fur coat and the boudoir sandals and then we’re just kind of putting it all together.” And the round of finale streamer dresses were based on "the idea of the cummerbund falling apart."

Brand face Aymeline Valade opened the show, Wang favorite Britt Maren had her hair dyed brunette especially for the occasion, and Natasha Poly, back to blonde, was the closer. Karolina Kurkova, Caroline Trentini, Natasa Vojnovic, Bette Franke, and Querelle Jansen all also made appearances. At the end, Wang, never one for a simple bow-and-wave, ran out, did a twirl, and then ran backstage again.

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a young stella mccartney

philleif — Wed, 14 Mar 2007 02:46:00 PDT

>> With her mother Linda, published in Vogue Paris March 2007. I thought it was funny to see this picture of Stella running around au naturel, but also found it interesting because the influence on her Stella McCartney Care advertisements with Bette Franke is so apparent.

the outcast is not so out...

philleif — Fri, 14 Apr 2006 22:41:00 PDT

>> I love the name of this editorial -- "Modern Magpie." The styling is wonderful, and of course Steven Meisel does it for Vogue Italia again -- his edits are always a treat. Coco Rocha is the main model, but I also spotted Bette Franke (I have a feeling you're going to see a lot more of her), Suzanne Diaz, and Ana Mihajlovic. This shoot had to grow on me -- there's one picture with Ana that is particularly jarring. But I have to say the shots with Coco alone are my favorites. And I like this idea of putting a kind of eccentric outcast character in a fashion magazine.