fashionologie

No 21 Fall 2012

Christina Perez — Wed, 22 Feb 2012 12:36:03 PST

>> Alessandro Dell'Acqua tapped "Queen Elizabeth in her private life, particularly when she is gardening in the country, but in a contemporary way," as his inspiration for Fall 2012. The designer also expanded on the menswear influence he focused on for Pre-Fall, working in masculine fabrics and some sharp sartorial tailoring into his signature fit-for-an-Italian-screen-siren aesthetic. Adding an element of girlie sparkle - and Queenly glamour? - were mini-dresses embellished with holographic sequins, delicate lace, and multi-colored rhinestones.

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Brioni Terminates Womenswear, Contract with Alessandro Dell'Acqua

fashionologie — Tue, 23 Aug 2011 10:45:11 PDT

>> Italian label Brioni, which just hired Allessandra Dell'Acqua in May 2010 to raise its womenswear profile, is discontinuing the line. Dell'Acqua, who WWD reports was just in talks to extend his yearly contract for three more years - with a clause giving Brioni exclusivity over the designer - will have his contract terminated.

Brioni's change of mind is attributed to ongoing talks between PPR and Brioni about the French luxury conglomerate acquiring the Italian brand. One industry source told WWD: “This was supposed to be a long-term investment for Brioni. The collection was selling very well, and Brioni was planning to open a number of women’s stores, so I can only assume the entrance of a new shareholder was instrumental in determining this new course.”

If PPR does invest in Brioni, the women's line may not be revived, another source cautioned: “PPR may only want to focus on men’s. It already has so many women’s lines.”

Olivier Theyskens For Theory and Alessandro Dell'Acqua to Brioni

coutorture — Thu, 27 May 2010 07:18:02 PDT

Olivier Theyskens, who has not produced a collection since his exit from the house of Nina Ricci during the fall 2009 season (although he did release a book), has landed himself a job-designing a capsule collection for Theory that will be released next spring according to WWD. We admit it might be nice to actually be able to afford something from one of the world's most adored fashion designers but would much prefer to watch Theyskens on a main stage, presenting mind-blowing fashions for a major house. Let's hope this partnership also means that Theory chief executive, Andrew Rosen, is planning to offer Theyskens financial backing to restart his own collection.

In other designer news, Brioni has tapped Alessandro Dell'Acqua to be the creative director for its women's collection. Dell'Acqua will continue to produce his own line, N. 21.

Source: Getty

Former Aquascutum Designers To Head Up Bally; Peter Dundas Exits Revillon

fashionologie — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 13:25:36 PST

>> Not a week after Bally confirmed that creative director Brian Atwood has shown his final collection for the label and longterm designers Michael Herz and Graeme Fidler resigned from Aquascutum, word comes that Herz and Fidler are expected to be take over creative directorship at Bally.

A Bally representative did not respond to requests for comment, but Fashion Week Daily cites sources saying that the decision came from Bally management's desire to focus more on ready-to-wear; Atwood's ready-to-wear allegedly didn't sell as well as accessories for the brand. Herz and Fidler are finishing up at Aquascutum, but will supposedly present their first Bally collection in Milan for Spring 2011.

Meanwhile: who might be replacing Peter Dundas at Revillon? »

Fashion in 50 Seconds 01/15/09 Kate Moss for Longchamp, Ryan McGinley's Film for Pringle

coutorture — Fri, 15 Jan 2010 09:33:44 PST

Kate Moss is designing a line of handbags for Longchamp.

Ryan McGinley made a video during the Pringle campaign shoot with Tilda Swinton-and this is not your typical music-over-broll clip.

Lancôme signs on to sponsor Victoria Beckham's New York Fashion Week presentation.

The first fashion shows of 2010-at Pitti in Florence-highlight ecological, technological, and classical values.

Fashionable gin drinkers rejoice: Jeremy Scott revamps Tanqueray's packaging.

Alessandro dell'Acqua returns with a new collection called N° 21-the designer's birthday and lucky number.

Classic American menswear brand Gant is back with Michael Bastian at the helm.

Alessandro Dell'Acqua Back on Milan Fashion Week Scene with N° 21

fashionologie — Fri, 15 Jan 2010 09:11:23 PST

>> After losing trademark rights to his name last June when he publicly sounded off against the label's owners, Alessandro Dell'Acqua is making a return to fashion with a new collection, dubbed N° 21. The name comes from the designer's birthday on Dec. 21, and it's also his lucky number.

Dell'Acqua is taking advantage of the opportunity to start with a clean slate. He told WWD: “I looked back at what I did in the past and decided to put the focus on wearable, every day clothes more than on eveningwear."

The first 80-piece collection, which spans dresses to knitwear to outerwear, will debut at the upcoming Fall 2010 Milan Fashion Week with a small runway show.

Fashion In 50 Seconds 06/23/09 Bottega Veneta's Plush Alligator Luggage & More

coutorture — Tue, 23 Jun 2009 08:12:55 PDT

Bottega Veneta wows with their $157,000 alligator luggage. Wow.

Upcoming Whistles designer Roksanda Illincic debuts her Cruise 2010 collection.

Is it possible? Alessandro Dell'Acqua sans Allesandro?

Despite all the flux, Lacroix will show a Couture collection on July 7.

Sneak peek of Beth Ditto's plus size collection for Evans.

Alessandro Dell'Acqua May Not Be Long at His Own Line

fashionologie — Mon, 22 Jun 2009 12:44:23 PDT

>> Alessandro Dell'Acqua broke with Italian knitwear brand Malo a couple of months ago, and now it sounds like he might be breaking with his own brand. On Friday, he sent a press release out through his public relations firm stating that both the Alessandro Dell'Acqua men's Spring 2010 collection and women's Pre-Spring 2010 collections "will be produced without my approval, as I haven't had the possibility to verify the conformity of the final product to the sketches I submitted to the company."

Cherry Grove, the corporation which acquired the Dell'Acqua brand and its trademarks in 2003, "has always been consistent with my style," Dell'Acqua wrote, "but in this case, despite of their formal assurance, . . . [they] decided to move forward without having me, the designer, check on the quality of the product."

Cherry Grove has not formally responded to the statement, which Dell'Acqua ended by disowning the two aforementioned collections: "I have to detach myself from these two collections that have not been approved by me and that I don't acknowledge as realization of my creations."

Fashion In 50 Seconds 04/09/09 Westwood Goes Bridal & More

coutorture — Thu, 09 Apr 2009 07:05:38 PDT

Vivienne Westwood's Sex In The City gown sold so well, she decided to launch an entire bridal range.

Marios Schwab blogged for British Vogue about his typical day in the studio, managing his ready to wear and Topshop lines.

Steven Meisel will make an appearance at this year's Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography as his work for Italian Vogue will take top billing.

Alessandro Dell’Acqua left Malo because they "don't need a marquee name" and also because IT Holding, which owns Malo, went bankrupt in February.

fashionologie — Tue, 07 Apr 2009 13:05:32 PDT

>> MODA OPERANDI -When IT Holding filed for the Italian equivalent of bankruptcy in late February, casualties were to be expected among its fashion brands Malo and Gianfranco Ferre, not to mention its licenses. Malo was shown in Milan as a small presentation soon after, instead of a full runway show in New York like seasons past - and the clothes couldn't hold a candle to the stunning collection designer Alessandro Dell'Acqua did for Spring 2009 back in September. Now, the casualty is pretty clear - Dell'Acqua is leaving the brand after less than a year, and going forward, the line will be designed by a team, with a focus on its core knitwear identity. [WWD]