>> It's just been a matter of time.  The first murmurs of Tom Ford expanding into womenswear came way back in February, and today come reports that in the wake of his directorial debut A Single Man being picked up last week by The Weinstein Company (who will likely put it into play for the Oscars with a limited December release), Ford is seeking funding for a foray into a women's line.

The amount sought is to the tune of $50 million or more, according to a report from two unnamed sources by private equity site peHUB, and the search just began in the last two weeks. The original rumor from February had Alessandra Facchinetti, who was top womenswear designer under Ford at Gucci, heading up the new line for Ford; she still hasn't publicly popped up anywhere else, so it's still a possibility . . . 

• Models fees are required in France, so Christian Lacroix chipped in to pay his 10 models 50 euros apiece. Normal couture fees are said to be around 1300 euros per show for new faces — every year of experience earns a "raise" of about 1000 more euros. [Imaginary Socialite]


• Jean Paul Gaultier had a 12-lb dress, Chanel had three seamstresses working on the bride look, and Maison Martin Margiela used 2,000 pen caps for a jacket: it's Fall 2009 couture by the numbers. [The Cut]


• Cathy Horyn yearns for Alessandra Facchinett's Valentino; Of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli's couture, she says: "Frankly I’d be worried about getting too close to one of those prickly, encrusted numbers. You might get a rash." [On the Runway]
Couture clients, a video of Chanel couture in the making »

>> Tom Ford pulled a Karl Lagerfeld for Spring 2009, taking over shooting his brand's ads from Terry Richardson.  Some shots featured Karen Elson sporting his eyewear, prompting a new round of that ever-present question — is Tom Ford doing womenswear?  It did used to be his forte, after all.

Turns out there is hope — circulating Milan Fashion Week is the rumor that Alessandra Facchinetti, who was unceremoniously dumped by Valentino last season, is currently working on Ford's nascent womenswear line.  Most appropriate, since Facchinetti was top womenswear designer under Ford at Gucci, before taking over when he left that brand.
*image: source

>> Last week Hermes had to deal with a belligerent heir, and this week, Gucci is caught up in a spy scandal — anyone want to guess what drama will round out the three?

The brand's offices in Florence, Milan, and Rome were searched this week as part of an investigation of illegal access to the Italian Ministry of Interior's data bank.  Last year, Carlo Del Bo, Gucci's former head of security, was arrested for illicitly obtaining information to help the brand fight conterfeits.  A Gucci spokesman said that the brand was unaware of Del Bo's methods to unearth the information and is "fully cooperating with the authorities."

Gucci is the latest target to be pulled into into the ongoing "Spy Story" scandal; Alessandra Facchinetti, former head of womenswear at Gucci — who hasn't had a great year already — was revealed in July to be a target of another wiretapping scandal connected to Del Bo's arrest.  Her phone conversations were tapped illegally for unclear reasons.
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>> Over the weekend, Valentino confirmed that its accessories designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli will be replacing Alessandra Facchinetti as creative directors of the brand.  This marks the second time Facchinetti has been replaced by accessories specialists, the first being when Frida Giannini replaced her at Gucci in 2005.

But here's the rub — Facchinetti found out she was being replaced at Valentino from the press, she said in a statement:

It was with deep regret that I learnt from the press that I would no longer be working with Valentino. This news came as a great surprise since the company’s top management has not yet seen fit to inform me of the above.

I would like to thank Valentino S.p.A. for showing their appreciation of my 'creative contribution and my sophisticated talent,' although I deeply regret the fact that this talent and contribution do not seem to have been adequately acknowledged.  I find it extremely sad that a brand label of the caliber of Valentino, which has made history in the world of fashion, has been the subject of rumors for the past two weeks.

So why was she given the boot? »

>> MODA OPERANDI —Pending board approval, Alessandra Facchinetti, as rumored, is out at Valentino.  Contrary to rumors, however, her replacement will not be Giambattista Valli — although many thought his collection yesterday looked like a tryout for the job — but rather Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, the longtime accessories duo at Valentino.  Fachinetti is said to have clashed with management over design direction and production costs. [WWD]

>> Alessandra Facchinetti doesn't show her collection for Valentino until tomorrow, but since Giambattista Valli — whose name has been thrown around as her successor at Valentino — showed today, all eyes were watching to see what kind of move he would make.  Valli himself was noncommital about the rumors — "I have no comment to make on that. I wish Alessandra the best of luck with her show tomorrow. I think she is doing a wonderful job." — but he didn't convince everybody.

Many saw Valli's collection as a tryout for the job: Hilary Alexander was convinced she saw clues: "the print on the silk and organza dresses was inspired by fading Roman frescoes and his mood board featured photographs of numerous Roman statues – and we all know Rome is the HQ of the legendary house of Valentino."  Suzy Menkes — though less explicit — saw it too: "the show looked too much like a résumé for someone who wants to take over a couture house."

And just for posterity, Fashion Week Daily reaffirmed the general feeling: "If there was any doubt that Giambattista Valli is in the running to become the heir apparent at Valentino, he surely quieted non-believers and made a strong case for the job with today's show. The collection was filled with the sort of red carpet fare that the house of Valentino depends upon."  So how long do you think before there's an announcement?
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>> It's never a good thing when rumors are swirling about your departure right before you debut a collection.  But that's just the case for Alessandra Facchinetti, whose Spring 2009 collection for Valentino debuts on Thursday — word is it may be her last.

"I heard they are giving her one more show," a "top editor" told Fashion Week Daily, echoing the sentiments of "several other industry insiders." Since Facchinetti's announcement as Valentino's successor last September, her reception has been only so-so.  In fact, one "well-placed Valentino insider" is even implying that she was always meant to be temporary, to "pave the way for Valentino's successor to 'save' the iconic house."

Giambattista Valli has been fingered as that savior; As for any confirmation, a Valentino spokesperson would only refer to the rumors as "inconsistent," whatever that means.
*image: source