fashionologie

Lanvin Gets Cash Money; Alber Elbaz Is "Really Scared of Bloggers"

fashionologie — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 15:48:51 -0800

>> Lanvin announced today that an anonymous European family holding company took a 12.5 percent stake in the company, ending a long quest by majority owner Shaw-Lan Wang to take the brand to the next level. The investment - thought to be on the order of about $37 million - is understand to be longterm, so don't expect the brand to change hands any time soon; LVMH's Bernard Arnault has been interested in recent years, but Wang is unwilling to give up majority control as Arnault would require.

“The company is really healthy. We only need to accelerate,” Lanvin EVP Thierry Andretta told WWD of the move. “We will be looking worldwide for great opportunities.” It is expected that the capital will help expand Lanvin's retail network, and if more funds are needed, the anonymous investor has the ability to inject more while still maintaining a minority share.

How does Alber feel about it all? »

Sophie Theallet Takes Home 2009 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Win

fashionologie — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 08:48:45 -0800

>> Last night, with the help of keynote speaker Alber Elbaz, who doled out gems on the perils of success - "It's like a bottle of perfume. You smell it, you don't sniff it or drink it" - Alaia veteran and Michelle Obama favorite Sophie Theallet took home the 2009 Vogue/Fashion Fund prize of $200,000 and a year of mentoring. Fellow nominees Patrik Ervell and Monique Pean were named runners-up, and received $50,000 each plus a business mentor.

In her speech, Anna Wintour said that in addition to the US, Italy, and the UK - which just started a similar talent-nurturing program - she just met with the French minister of culture about mirroring the contest there. "And Brazil, India, Russia, and China aren't far behind."

Theallet Tweeted of her win: "my american dream comes true tonight thanks and much love to all of you!xox." Cathy Horyn, too, weighed in on the choice:

"The money and the mentoring will help Ms. Theallet because she needs to be able to offer more range in her collection, as well as expand her production options. She has such a distinctly feminine eye, and the skills, that I’ve often wondered why a big retailer doesn’t ask Ms. Theallet to design some blouses and summer dresses for them, using the store’s resources and manufacturing connections."

Videos of the nominees going through the competition and the awards ceremony last night can be seen here and here, respectively.

Alber Elbaz Serves Up Cocktails and Cocktail Dresses for Spring 2010

fashionologie — Fri, 02 Oct 2009 12:46:01 -0700

>> Spring 2010 is a party for Alber Elbaz: tables were erected in the middle of the runway pre-show, with bow-tied waiters offering up puff pastries and fruity frozen cocktails with umbrellas as salsa music played in the background. Lanvin paper fans were placed on every seat.

With a neon chandelier as backdrop, Elbaz, who just recently returned from Argentina, served up jumpsuits and colorful pouf cocktail dresses - some accessorized with one glove. The collection, Elbaz said, was crafted almost entirely from man-made fabrics, and called it a look of "new minimalism." The elborately bold jewelry will surely be clamored for. As Style.com's Derek Blasberg put it, "If you judge a designer by the level of applause at his finale, Alber Elbaz is the best."

fashionologie — Tue, 07 Jul 2009 19:34:26 -0700

>> Karl Lagerfeld Responds to Rumors of Chanel Retirement -Yesterday evening, Cathy Horyn asked Karl Lagerfeld about the veracity of the rumors that he might be stepping down at Chanel and be replaced by Alber Elbaz of Lanvin: "Mr. Lagerfeld said to forget about it. He was going to die with his boots on. He also mentioned that Alain Wertheimer, whose family owns Chanel, said he would sell the house when the designer leaves. This might not be the case, Mr. Lagerfeld said, but it was a nice thing to be told." [On the Runway]

Alber Elbaz Wants to Satiate Your Needs with Lanvin Cruise 2010

fashionologie — Mon, 15 Jun 2009 14:41:48 -0700

>> Alber Elbaz arrived in New York on Saturday to present Lanvin's Cruise 2010 collection, which is in categories based on needs - “men’s tailoring for women, capsules for traveling and weekend” - this morning. Another one of the needs the collection addresses? How to offer special clothes without the high price tags - hence the inclusion of tees starting at $119 and cotton dresses at $450. Alber said before that part of the collection was inspired by Damages; today he added Samantha Ronson to the list of influence.

Bazaar's Glenda Bailey brought temporary intern Tallulah Willis, who hugged the designer, to the presentation, and Alber chatted about how he worked through his recent birthday and is looking forward to a vacation: “I’m still trying to find that perfect spot. It used to be Asia. But now I’m looking all over Europe. But once you find a location, you can’t find a nice home. And once you find a nice home, you don’t like the interiors. You see, we’re very picky in this fashion industry.”

fashionologie — Fri, 12 Jun 2009 12:43:53 -0700

>> INSIDER WIRE -Despite rumors otherwise, it sounds like Alber Elbaz is happily situated at Lanvin for the long haul: the self-professed Project Runway fan created a new tailoring capsule collection for Lanvin's Cruise 2010 collection inspired by Glenn Close's power suits in Damages. The looks will be produced in the same Italian factories as Lanvin's menswear and mark Elbaz's expansion into a number of capsule collections for next season, including ranges of jersey, long dresses, bridal gowns, and dip-dyed cotton sportswear, as well as his denim line with Acne. [WWD]

fashionologie — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 12:49:18 -0700

>> INSIDER WIRE -Spokespeople at Chanel and Lanvin promptly denied Friday's rumor that Karl Lagerfeld might be exiting Chanel, with Alber Elbaz taking his place and Olivier Theyskens taking over at Lanvin, but over the weekend, Style.com's Derek Blasberg, who was in Venice for the Biennale with a number of fashion insiders, tweeted: "Hold up now, y´all. Word on the street here in Venice is that maybe some of this fashion designer shuffling is true." [The Cut, Derek Blasberg Twitter]

Rumor: Karl Lagerfeld to Step Down at Chanel, With Alber Elbaz Stepping In?

fashionologie — Fri, 05 Jun 2009 10:11:07 -0700

>> While Karl Lagerfeld is preparing for the Chanel Fall 2009 couture show on July 7 - which he plans to hold at sunset in the Grand Palais - rumors are swirling about his future at the company. Although he has said in the past that he doesn't plan to retire, it's circling that he will not renew his contract at Chanel, that Alber Elbaz will take his place, and Olivier Theyskens will take Alber's place at Lanvin.

Diane Pernet says both choices "make perfect sense" to her, but why would Alber, who has brought Lanvin profit through wearable clothes, be replaced with Olivier Theyskens, who is hardly known for wearable designs? Anna Wintour is close friends with Karl Lagerfeld - but close enough to convince him to step down so she can find placement for Olivier Theyskens?

Diane also adds that she heard that Schiaparelli, which is expected to relaunch next year at earliest, has decided to switch directions and focus on a less expensive line.

Highlights from Inside the 2009 Costume Institute Gala: Gisele Dumps Galliano for Versace, Carine Roitfeld Showed

fashionologie — Tue, 05 May 2009 13:38:20 -0700

>> Despite all the drama before and after, the Costume Institute Gala itself furnished plenty of notable and quotable moments; for those who were wondering, Carine Roitfeld did attend, even though it was reported that Julia Restoin-Roitfeld would not.

Gisele Bundchen pulled out of John Galliano's table at the last minute, choosing to ride in with the Versace camp instead; it sounds like she might be returning as the label's Fall 2009 face - the New York Times reports that her custom Versace dress "was conceived while she was modeling for [Donatella’s] next ad campaign." Helena Christensen, meanwhile, joked of her Zac Posen dress, which read "Vogue," the V formed by a plunging neckline: “It’s so I can remember whose party I’m at."

And while Kate Moss was on hostess duty (and presumably her best behavior) for Anna Wintour, she still managed to be herself, pulling a big wad of gum out of her mouth when asked about being a muse: “I’m amused. I think it’s quite interesting for somebody to go outside of the box and think that a model actually has had some input into fashion. A lot of the time, the models don’t really get a say.”

But they do have a bathroom fascination »

Alber Elbaz Says He's Technologically Challenged

fashionologie — Thu, 30 Apr 2009 16:22:21 -0700

>> In March, The New Yorker did a profile on Alber Elbaz that left him seeming unconfident and unhappy with himself. Stephanie Seymour sat down with the Lanvin designer for the May 2009 issue of Interview and came away with a glimpse of a different side of Alber - one who doesn't mess with sexy clothes, small talk, or overeager interns. There is one category, however, that Elbaz feels less than adequate in:

He knows his way around a dress, but can't work the remote.

I have no sense of direction, no technical skills. My boyfriend thinks that I stay with him just because he knows how to work the remote control at home. If it has buttons, I depend on him. Sometimes I think that I am kind of either f*cked-up or dyslexic. Like, my brain doesn’t get it! Everything that has to do with a machine is hard. But I live with it now. I don’t have a complex about machines - I just don’t know how to use them.

He also likens designing to going into labor. »