fashionologie

Azzedine Alaia on Karl Lagerfeld's Bad Influence and Anna Wintour's Taste

fashionologie — Wed, 22 Jun 2011 11:17:52 PDT

>> Azzedine Alaia recently turned down one of fashion's most high-profile gigs, and now he has some choice words about two of fashion's most high-profile figures.

On Karl Lagerfeld: "Happily, women love me and buy my clothes, unlike Karl who’s never been loved like me! [Laughs.] . . . I don’t like his fashion, his spirit, his attitude. It’s too much caricature. Karl Lagerfeld never touched a pair of scissors in his life. That doesn’t mean that he’s not great, but he’s part of another system. He has capacity. One day he does photography, the next he does advertisements for Coca-Cola. I would rather die than see my face in a car advertisement. We don’t do the same work. And I think that he is not doing a favor to young [designers] who might think it works that way. They’re going to fall before they retire."

On Anna Wintour: "I said it before. She runs the business [of Vogue] very well, but not the fashion part. When I see how she is dressed, I don’t believe in her tastes one second. I can say it loudly! She hasn’t photographed my work in years even if I am a best seller in the US and I have 140 square meters at Barneys. American women love me; I don’t need her support at all. Anna Wintour doesn’t deal with pictures; she is just doing PR and business, and she scares everybody. But when she sees me, she is the scared one. [Laughs.] Other people think like me, but don’t say it because they are afraid that Vogue won’t photograph them. Anyway, who will remember Anna Wintour in the history of fashion? No one. Take Diana Vreeland, she is remembered because she was so chic. What she did with the magazine was great, with Avedon and all the great photographers. Vogue remains while its fashion editors come and go."

Azzedine Alaia to Show During Paris Couture

fashionologie — Fri, 27 May 2011 08:51:08 PDT

>> Azzedine Alaia, who typically closes out Paris Fashion Week with an off-the-schedule intimate presentation in his studio, has announced that he will make a rare appearance during the upcoming Paris couture week. The designer indicated that he will show what he described as "semicouture" designs sometime during the week, which runs July 4 through 8. [WWD]

The Best Sandals, Oxfords, Flats, and Booties For Spring

Chi Diem Chau — Thu, 03 Feb 2011 11:32:22 PST

>> We can't slip into a pair of breezy sandals or peep-toe booties for another (tortuous) couple of months, but there's no harm in checking out what's available so when the weather's ready, we're ready, too. Our favorite pairs - ranging from Alaia stitched sandals to Miu Miu striped ballet flats - are sure to take you from a freezing 24 degrees to the high 70s in no time at all (we hope). The Groundhog did predict an early Spring, after all.

Alaïa Cutout leather sandals - Sold Out	Bonndd Blue - Sold Out
Vanessa Bruno Flat studded suede sandals - Sold Out	Mira Wedges - Sold Out
ESPADRILLES Platform sandals - Sold Out	Opening Ceremony Stefania 3 Suede Lace Wedge Shoe Boots - $537.15
Jimmy Choo Vintage Mam suede, calf hair and leather sandals - Sold Out	Steffie Dutch Sandal - Sold Out
Deena & Ozzy Lucite Stella Sandal - Sold Out	KORS Michael Kors Dillon Raffia Sandal - Sold Out
DIANE von FURSTENBERG "Zia Criss-Cross" Platform Sandals - Sold Out	Reed Krakoff Leather multi-strap sandals - Sold Out
Charlotte Olympia Pineapple Cage Platform - Sold Out	Chloé Leather and raffia clogs - Sold Out
ANNA RAVAZZOLI Platform sandals - Sold Out	LARK Dusty Pink Knotted Sandal - Sold Out
Tory Burch Verona embellished suede sandals - Sold Out	Proenza Schouler Tasseled leather slingbacks - Sold Out
FORNARINA Sandals - Sold Out	Maison Martin Margiela Line 22 / Open Toe Boot - Sold Out
Jeffrey Campbell Front Row Fashion Wedge - Sold Out	Femme Fatale - Sold Out
Yves Saint Laurent Gipsy suede block sandals - Sold Out	Elizabeth and James Lang leather and canvas lace-up sandals - Sold Out
Miu Miu Canvas platform wedge sandals - Sold Out	Campbell high-heel oxfords - Sold Out
LUMINATE Velcro Sandals - Sold Out	Proenza Schouler Sam Open-toe Booties - Sold Out
Robert Clergerie Waya - Sold Out	Acne Brushed leather ankle boots - Sold Out
Jil Sander Two-tone leather brogues - Sold Out	Alaïa Leopard-print calf hair ankle boots - Sold Out
Cooperative Suede T-Strap Sandal - Sold Out	Miu Miu Striped canvas ballerina flats - Sold Out
KORS Michael Kors Lara Cutout Wedge Sandal - Sold Out	Pedro Garcia White Patty Peeptoe Wishbone Shoe - Sold Out
Diane Von Furstenberg Eva Scarf Tie Platform Sandals - Sold Out	Jil Sander Wedge Sandals with Asymmetrical Straps - Sold Out
Yves Saint Laurent Metallic T-Strap Wedge Sandals - Sold Out	PRADA SPORT Wedge - Sold Out
Rapup - Sold Out	Robert Clergerie / Jata Slip-On Shoe - Sold Out
Dolce Vita Dacia T Strap Flat Sandals - Sold Out	Marni Leather slingback clogs - Sold Out
12TH STREET BY CYNTHIA VINCENT Leif Strappy Wedge Sandals - Sold Out	Chloë Sevigny for O.C. / Mary Jane Platform - Sold Out
Caroline - Sold Out	Elizabeth & James Boca Wedge - Sold Out
Kors Michael Kors Harbor suede slingback clogs - Sold Out	See By Chloe Velcro Sandal In Nero - Sold Out
Joie - Leo - Elephant Cut-out Flat Sandal - Sold Out	Chloe Ankle-Wrap Ballet Flats - Sold Out
Bloch Luxury two-tone patent-leather ballerina flats - Sold Out	See by Chloé Suede lace-up platform sandals - Sold Out
DV by Dolce Vita Jaquie Sandal - Sold Out	Kork-Ease Myrna Sandal - Sold Out
Twelfth Street By Cynthia Vincent Flat Sandal With Stud Detail - Sold Out	Diane Von Furstenberg Flama Tie Scarf Platform Sandals - Sold Out

Two Cool Ways to Wear Cropped Flare Trousers

Chi Diem Chau — Wed, 13 Oct 2010 13:03:00 PDT

After spotting Vanessa Traina sporting a pair of cropped flared trousers during Fashion Week, we had to try it out for ourselves. At first glance, the silhouette might come off as unflattering, but we have a remedy for that - high heels! Shop two divergent ways to wear this cool pair -we love the leg-lengthening pinstripes - from Diane von Furstenberg ($295), now.

Cozy Equestrian (Left to right): Diane von Furstenberg Cavaro Pinstripe Pant ($295), Erro Shearling and Leather Vest ($795), Richard Chai Funnel Neck Sweater ($298), Phi Skinny Belt ($51, originally $205), Reed Krakoff Boxer Suede Tote ($1,090), Brooks Brothers Burgundy Socks ($18), Alaïa Lace-up Leather Boots ($1,790)

Mixed Prints (Left to right): Diane von Furstenberg Cavaro Pinstripe Pant ($295), APC Leopard Cotton Sweater ($150), Alexander McQueen Purple Skull Ring ($280), Guess Cross Necklace ($28), Rebecca Minkoff Boyfriend Messenger Bag ($295), Isabel Marant Poppy Suede Pumps ($620)

Paris Fashion Week Street Style - Julia Sarr-Jamois

Chi Diem Chau — Tue, 05 Oct 2010 12:43:48 PDT

Wonderland fashion editor Julia Sarr-Jamois took a spin in sportswear on Paris Fashion Week day three, donning a pink Prada chunky knit crewneck sweater and gray fleece skirt. Grab a similar look - which Sarr-Jamois elevated with speckled satin booties and gray textured tights - with a bright Topshop knit sweater, Sonia by Sonia Rykiel A-line knit skirt, and textured Alaia booties.

Left to right: Topshop Slouch Jumper ($125), Movado Leather Watch ($695), Julia Sarr-Jamois at Paris Fashion Week, Jonathan Aston Ribbed Tights ($9, orginally $15), Topshop Texture Ring Set ($18), Alaia Black Grommet Booties ($796), Sonia By Sonia Rykiel A-line Knit Skirt ($341), Isabel Marant Fringed Leather Bag ($875)

Photos: Greg Kessler

Oscar de la Renta's Comments on Michelle Obama Ruffle Feathers

fashionologie — Tue, 07 Apr 2009 13:54:26 PDT

>> Last week, Oscar de la Renta drew a lot of heat for his frustrated comments on Michelle Obama's decision to champion small fashion houses, wearing Thakoon and Jason Wu over Donna Karan or Ralph Lauren:

American fashion right now is struggling. I think I understand what [Obama and her advisers] are doing, but I don’t think that is the right message at this particular point . . . I don’t object to the fact that Mrs. Obama is wearing J.Crew to whatever because the diversity of America is what makes this country great. But there are a lot of great designers out there. I think it’s wrong to go in one direction only.

He got particularly pointed about Obama's choice of an Alaia cardigan to meet Queen Elizabeth: “You don’t go to Buckingham Palace in a sweater.”

Needless to say, fashion community feathers were ruffled - Paper's Mickey Boardman blogged a piece requesting de la Renta to "hush": "It's beneath de la Renta's dignity as an elder statesman of American Fashion to consistently complain and criticize a First Lady who has done so much for American fashion."

But Oscar's sticking to his guns »

A Look at Azzedine Alaia Fall 2010, Created Sans Moodboards, Sans Sketches

fashionologie — Tue, 16 Mar 2010 10:30:57 PDT

>> At 9 pm on the final day of Paris Fashion Week last week, Azzedine Alaia gathered weary editors, buyers, and even Jessica Stam to his studio in the Marais for an impromptu Fall 2010 presentation, complete with drinks and dinner.

The latest issue of LOVE features an interview with Alaia in that same studio, in which one of the designer's longtime assistants tries to explain the Alaia design process: "As his assistants we have never been asked to collect any documentation or anything like that. It is just his hands, the girl, the fabric and the pins. And he does not draw either. There might be a couple of notes to remember how something is tied, but never a drawing of a silhouette. So we do not know where it comes from." Alaia chimes in: "Oui. Oui-oui-oui. There are no moodboards and none of that. I do not think about the clothes or about 'trends.' I just pick up the fabric and go to the girl and the ideas come." In addition to formulating his silhouettes, Alaia also does all of his pattern-cutting, leather work, embroidery, draping, pleating, and the invention of new fabrications himself.

And he watches TV while he works »

Azzedine Alaia Still Upset with "Dictator" Anna Wintour

fashionologie — Fri, 08 May 2009 12:32:53 PDT

>> Azzedine Alaia is not letting up on his anger over the omission of his work from this year's Costume Insitute exhibit "The Model as Muse," and he continues to blame Anna Wintour.

Yesterday, he told WWD over the phone that she has snubbed his work for 15 years: “She behaves like a dictator and everyone is terrified of her . . . but I’m not scared of her or anyone.” Putting his money where his mouth is, he aims to continue his campaign against her. The seven dresses he created for Monday night's gala - Linda Evangelista's, Stephanie Seymour's, and Naomi Campbell's among them - that went unworn at his request, he plans to loan them out for editorials.

So why wasn't he included in the first place? »

Alaia Wasn't Good Enough for Dior, But Naomi Campbell Lived With Him

fashionologie — Tue, 24 Feb 2009 16:13:53 PST

>> He may be one of the lesser knowns of a design generation that includes Valentino Garavani, Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld, and Giorgio Armani, but at 68, Azzedine Alaia has carved out a niche of his own. Like Armani, Alaia owns his business, allowing him to design his way - as Stephanie Seymour, who spoke with the designer for March 2009 Interview puts it - "usually very late at night with an old film playing in the background." More elusive than Marc Jacobs but more forthcoming than Martin Margiela, a window into Alaia's world is always a treat; More from Seymour and the man she refers to as "Papa":

Alaia was fired from Christian Dior after five days.

I met my best friend, Leila, whose mother had connections to clients of Christian Dior in Paris, and eventually someone asked if I could come work there. I got the job. But when I arrived, it was the end of the Algerian War [1962]. After five days there they said to me, "You can't work here any longer. You're a foreigner."

"I have such fond memories . . ." »

Alaia Pulls Dresses From Costume Institute Gala After Exhibit Snub

fashionologie — Mon, 04 May 2009 13:55:21 PDT

>> Anna Wintour received criticism yesterday for co-opting the Met's reputation for her own means, but new Costume Institute Gala-related developments snuff out those complaints in a second. Seven models - including Naomi Campbell, Stephanie Seymour, and Linda Evangelista - were to wear Azzedine Alaia creations to the gala tonight, but the designer has asked them not to wear the dresses because his work, though strongly tied to a number of the supermodels' careers, has no place in this year's exhibit, save for one photograph.

As a result, Naomi Campbell - as rumored - plus some of the other (unnamed) models will not be attending tonight in a gesture to the designer. A spokeswoman for Campbell confirmed this afternoon: “As Naomi has been the muse of Azzedine Alaia for 23 years, she feels she doesn’t want to attend unless she can represent his work.” No word on whether Seymour and Evangelista will do the same.

Alaia blames Anna Wintour for the omission »