fashionologie

Proenza Schouler Debuts Guest Edit of A Magazine, Short Film with Kalup Linzy, and Cruise 2010 Collection All in a Week

fashionologie — Thu, 18 Jun 2009 12:10:39 PDT

>> This has been a week of firsts for Proenza Schouler. They took home their first CFDA Accessory Designer of the Year award Monday, after which Jack McCollough was snapped licking Thakoon Panichgul; Lazaro Hernandez later quipped, "Yeah, we started the week off with a hangover, bad idea, and kind of throws off the whole thing!" With A Magazine #9, out this week with Chloe Sevigny on the cover, they become the first American designer guest editors - Lazaro even photographed the Swarovski campaign inside.

And today, they present their first collection abroad in Florence - complete with performance artist Kalup Linzy's short film starring Chloe Sevigny and Liya Kebede (see here), because they felt they "needed to up the ante." The Cruise 2010 collection includes bags with leather treated to look like herringbone canvas and was inspired by their recent trip to Tahiti: "When we finish a show we go away, and that trip usually winds up being the spark for the next season. Not directly - I think we try to avoid the places where the inspiration would be too on-the-surface, in fact." They say they're staying to work in Italy, and then coming back to get ready for Spring 2010, so maybe some Italian influence will shine through next time around?

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Anja Rubik Debuts 25 Magazine's "Erotic" Issue

Justin Fenner — Thu, 24 May 2012 12:33:20 PDT

The newest issue of 25 magazine, which Anja Rubik helms with her husband Sasha Knezevic, features 300 pages of fashion photos tinged with an "erotic twist."

The couple launched the issue at a party Wednesday night in Cannes. Rubik described the issue as "more of a book than a magazine" and said that its ad-free pages are dedicated to women photographers including Annie Leibovitz, Ellen von Unwerth, and Corrine Day.

"It's mainly a fashion magazine, but with an erotic twist," Rubik explained, adding that she took inspiration from '70s issues of Viva, Playboy, and Penthouse. "I think it's balanced quite well. There's a lot of fashion. The stylists had a lot of liberty to play around with clothes, and there was no list of credits they had to follow or anything like that."

In fact, whoever styled the cover photo - which Knezevic tweeted yesterday - opted not to use clothes at all. The same goes for a 15-second teaser video clip for the issue called Kiss, seen below.

Rubik and Knezevic started working on 25 in 2009, when one of Knezevic's friends acquired it and asked him for help. Knezevic is now the magazine's editor-in-chief and creative director, and Rubik serves as fashion and art director. Take a look at some of their work below.

Source: Sasha_Knezevic

Muse Like Jagger: Georgia May's Style Evolution

Christina Perez — Fri, 25 May 2012 08:15:23 PDT

She may be Madonna's latest Material Girl, but Georgia May Jagger has always been one of the coolest girls around. With model-mom Jerry Hall's stunning bone structure and dad Mick's iconic gap-toothed pout - not to mention both parents' rock 'n' roll vibe - the 5'7" progeny-turned-muse has already been featured in scores of magazines, from American Vogue to i-D. She's also been photographed by the likes of Mario Sorrenti and Hedi Slimane, fronted major campaigns for Chanel and Versace, and has long-standing contracts with Hudson Jeans and Rimmel London.

"To be handpicked by Madonna and Lola as the new face of Material Girl is truly amazing," Jagger said of her latest endeavor, the back-to-school campaign for junior line Material Girl, which bows this Summer. "My agent received a call from the Material Girl team saying Lola and Madonna wanted to work together with me. From talking with Lola, she and her mum liked my style and thought it would be a good fit," Jagger elaborated. "I've always admired Madonna's style and I'm thrilled to be working with her and Lola. I dressed up like her for a school dance once!"

A look at Jagger's muse-worthy style evolution - which includes plenty of animal print, primary hues, and body-con silhouettes - here, in the gallery.

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Tilda Swinton Covers Candy Magazine

Justin Fenner — Mon, 21 May 2012 16:36:05 PDT

Tilda Swinton looks stunning - and a little unlike herself - in a custom Antony Price dress and big, bold curls on the cover of the fourth edition of Candy magazine.

Xevi Muntane shot the cover and the coordinating photo story in the magazine, working with creative director Jerry Stafford. Together the two created a story called "The Transformer," which shows just how easily Swinton can switch from one persona to the next. Take a look at the otherworldly photos in the gallery.

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Topshop's Newest Collaborator, Anna Sui's Latest Endeavor, and Louis Vuitton's Worth

Justin Fenner — Thu, 24 May 2012 13:59:13 PDT

Those stories and more in our daily news roundup.

Louis Vuitton has been named the world's most valuable luxury brand for the seventh consecutive year by the Millward Brown Optimor's 2012 BrandZ study. Vuitton is worth an estimated $25.9 billion, followed closely by Hermés at $19.1 billion and Rolex at $7.2 billion. [Fashion Etc.]
Anna Sui's "genius box" - a collection of magazine clippings and inspiration pages from books and other sources that fills a whole closet - has spilled onto the Internet in the form of a newly minted Pinterest page. "Now, I can do this on my desktop!" Sui said in a statement. [Fashionologie Inbox]
Louise Gray will design a clothing and cosmetics collaboration for Topshop that will go on sale at the end of August. "My idea behind the collaboration was to design for the Topshop girl a range that was young and fun, similar to both the fashion and make up I wear already," Gray said. [The Daily Telegraph]
How do imitations of high-fashion runway looks end up on sale at mass-market retailers mere months after Fashion Week? The process involves almost everyone in the industry, including bloggers, magazine editors, buyers, retailers, and manufacturers. [Refinery29]
Elsa Peretti, whose jewelry designs have made up 10 percent of Tiffany's net sales over the past three years, plans to retire. The company has worked with Peretti since the early '70s and is trying to acquire her intellectual property rights so that they can continue to produce products under her name. [The Cut]
Uniqlo has named Novak Djokovic, currently the number one-ranked men's tennis player in the world, as its new brand ambassador. Djokovic will wear the brand's clothing on and off the court for the next five years, starting this Sunday when he plays in the French Open tournament. [WWD]

Heidi Klum's Music Video, Peter Dundas's Morning Commute, and Georgia May Jagger's New Job

Justin Fenner — Wed, 23 May 2012 16:42:35 PDT

Those stories and more in our daily news roundup.

Heidi Klum is the star of a music video made for Hunger magazine, in which she sings a song called "Turn Up the Night." [Stylelist]
Pucci's Peter Dundas spilled his daily routine in a recent interview. Among the tidbits divulged? He generally flies to his office in Florence from his apartment in Paris. "It's an hour-and-a-half flight," he said. "Really, I am in an airplane four or five times a week." [Harper's Bazaar]
At the launch party for his book Advanced Style - which, like the blog, is dedicated to fashionable older folks such as Iris Apfel and model Mimi Weddell - Ari Seth Cohen screened a trailer for the documentary he's working on featuring the same subjects. "If people don't like what I'm wearing well, I don't give a sh*t," one of the subjects proclaims. [Nowness]
Georgia May Jagger has been named the face of Madonna's clothing line, Material Girl. Jagger is also currently the face of Hudson Jeans and Rimmel London. [Fashion Etc.]
Christian Louboutin has released an app for the iPhone and iPad through which users can see the brand's videos, see new products, and even locate the nearest store. [Christian Louboutin]

Erin Fetherston on Sneaking Into Her First Fashion Show and How She Gets That Hair

Justin Fenner — Mon, 21 May 2012 11:46:47 PDT

Erin Fetherston's success as a designer - and her charming personal style - have made her a regular fixture on the Fashion Week scene, but she wasn't always included on guest lists. We talked with the flaxen-haired designer about her elaborate plan to sneak into her very first runway show when she was just an 18-year-old intern at a "major" fashion magazine in New York.

"It was September. A couple people from the magazine were invited to the Calvin Klein show at Milk Studios. The art department got a copy of someone else's invitation and they basically made a bootleg copy for me - but totally using their amazing art production equipment!

"I was so nervous. I was completely sneaking in, and I feel like that didn't happen that much back then. Before the digital era and before Fashion GPS I feel like it was harder, because you really needed to have that physical invite.

"I remember going to the show and hiding it [the invitation] with the envelope or folded in half. I walked right in and I remember just being amazed. Once the show was over everyone was kind of hanging out and drinking champagne and there was Shalom Harlow and Amber Valletta. It was just amazing for me."

Fetherston added that she's been showing her collection at Milk for the past few seasons, and she always sees "student crashers. I always let them come in because I was totally the same," she said.

We also asked Fetherston about her signature coif. She told us she focuses on getting haircuts that grow out well (her go-to is Edward Tricomi at Warren Tricomi) and conditioning it with Shu Uemura and Redken products to keep it healthy - but she says she doesn't want her hair to get more attention than she does.

"I've had my bangs for such a long time and I know people really associate me with them," she said, laughing. "You don't want to be defined by something like your haircut. I feel like it was starting to overshadow other things that I do in my life, which I think are more interesting."

Scott Schuman Speaks His Mind in New GQ Profile

Justin Fenner — Mon, 21 May 2012 10:47:24 PDT

Scott Schuman doesn't pull any punches in a new GQ profile that examines his rarefied place in the fashion industry.

"It shocks me when young kids still say, 'I want to do a magazine,'" Schuman, who started the blog The Sartorialist in 2005, says in the piece. "Really? Do you want to do a magazine because you want to be an editor - what you think that life is, that romance - or do you want to communicate? Because if you want to communicate, why the f*ck would you put all those obstacles in your path and have to print pages, as opposed to going right on the Internet and actually communicating?"

Alex Pappademas, who wrote the profile, describes Schuman as being able to travel "nimbly between fashion-world insider and outsider" - which could explain his license to say what he feels and his ability to sit front row at high-profile fashion shows. Read on for more of his quotes from the profile.

On meeting Ron Frasch, president and chief merchandising office at Saks: "He's looking right over my head," Schuman says, "and I remember thinking, I'm gonna make this f*cking blog so he looks at me when I'm talking to him."

On sitting Dolce & Gabbana's Spring 2009 show: "They got a humongous amount of press," Schuman says. "Look, we brought the bloggers in and gave them the front row. Look at the dancing-monkey bloggers! I could barely bring myself to sit down . . . Like, 'Ugh, I don't want everyone looking at us.' Like, Oh, look at the cute bloggers! Isn't that cute! Are they playing Angry Birds? When you've got Ron Frasch behind you going, 'I spent two f*cking million dollars on D&G's last collection, and I'm sitting here? For these little schmucks?'" (Schuman later clarified that Frasch didn't say anything to this effect.)

Kanye West on Schuman: "Scott gave me my first opportunity to be photographed in a different light than the normal rap way. So anytime Scott does anything, I don’t care where I am in the world. I'll be there."

Opening Ceremony to Start Fashion and Culture Magazine

Justin Fenner — Mon, 14 May 2012 09:10:55 PDT

Humberto Leon and Carol Lim are reportedly launching a magazine this Summer.

The new glossy, called OC Annual, is billed as a "collectible fashion and culture magazine" and will be published once a year. Each issue will focus on a theme; the debut issue, due out in August, will center on the Olympic Games in London, where Opening Ceremony plans to open a store later this year. So far, they've recruited Bruce Weber, Walter Pfeiffer, Todd Cole, and Tim Barber to take pictures for the magazine.

Neither Leon nor Lim has spoken publicly about the magazine, but in an internal memo obtained by WWD, Lim wrote that the goal is to create a magazine that has a broad appeal.

"As magazine fanatics, O.C. founder Humberto Leon and myself are aiming to create a collectible publication for a new generation, something beautiful and special in the vein of Benetton's Colors, Comme des Garçons' Six and Joe McKenna's Joe," Lim wrote. "We want to make a magazine that will appeal to kids in Nebraska as much as industry people."

In addition to running Opening Ceremony outposts in New York, Los Angeles, and Tokyo, Leon and Lim also design the Opening Ceremony label, as well as the Paris-based line Kenzo. The duo is also working on a book celebrating Opening Ceremony's 10th anniversary. The book will be published by Rizzoli in September.

Happy Birthday, Emmanuelle Alt

Christina Perez — Fri, 18 May 2012 10:54:32 PDT

It's been well over a year since Emmanuelle Alt took the helm of Vogue Paris, and while the aesthetic of that magazine may have changed, one thing's for certain: Alt's personal style has not. In fact, if there's one thing that can be said about Alt, it's that she definitely sticks to a look.

"Her style is her big shoulders, long legs, tight jeans, sleeves up to the elbow, one hip out. I personally like her. She’s a handsome French woman," Karl Lagerfeld has said of the minimalistic, admittedly low-maintenance editor in chief. "I don't look after myself. I don't do yoga, Pilates, those things. I hate physical effort, I don't run anywhere, but I am superenergetic. Makeup? I just black my eyes, and that's it. My hair? I get it cut on set. I never go to a hairdresser. I'm not sure I'm French," Alt has said.

Regardless, we think the überstylist's French appeal is quite apparent. So in honor of her May 18 birthday - and her refreshingly low-key chic - we've gathered up some of our favorite Alt-in-uniform style moments. Bon anniversaire!

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