>> THE MODELIZER —A year ago, WWD reported that one-third of the New York shows didn't employ models of color, but according to Jezebel's calculations, spots given to models of color increased six percent this season. Among those shows with the highest diversity: Oscar de la Renta, Victoria Beckham, Tracy Reese, Sophie Theallet; those using no models of color included: Julian Louie, Koi Suwannagate, Temperley London, and Vera Wang Lavender Label. [Jezebel]
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>> Fall 2009 has turned out to be the season of the jewelry collaboration — in New York, at least — and out of the sea of partnerships, one that stood out the most was that between Pamela Love and Zac Posen. She also worked with Yigal Azrouel and studiomate Frank Tell this season, but created braided headbands affixed with punk rock spikes, studded rocker belts elaborately covered with leaves and flowers blooming spikes, and my personal favorite, floral earrings opening up to give forth — you guessed it — spikes, all to complement Zac's theatrical collection. If intrigued further, a glance at her personal Fall 2009 collection.
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>> A few seasons ago, Jourdan Dunn made headlines as the first model of color to walk Prada in ten years; Prada is carefully casted and a coup like that can make a model's career. The same goes for Calvin Klein, except that since CK is so early on in the season, it sets the tone for the rest of the three Fashion Weeks. This afternoon, Lyndsey Scott became one of the few models of color to land in the Calvin Klein lineup — Jourdan Dunn has done the honors in recent seasons. Monika "Jac" Jagaciak bounced back from her fall at Herve Leger to both open and close; Addison Gill, Bojana Reljic, and Louis Maselis round out the chosen ones as exclusives — expect to see much more from all.
Notably, former house face Toni Garrn and current face Anna Selezneva were missing in action, but enough about models — let's not forget Francisco Costa's turn to the darker side — burned out lace patterning and pops of chartreuse keep the collection right where we want it: coveted.
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>> Anna Wintour is legendary for popping her Chanel shades on right as the lights goes dim, but Carine Roitfeld? Not so much — until this afternoon, when she wore a pair of aviators during the Calvin Klein show. Peep her looks throughout this Fashion Week, including her favorite pieces — a giant petal-colored muppet coat and a pair of Sigerson Morrison heels, and then enjoy a surprise appearance of her husband, the elusive Christian Restoin, who was in town for their son's photography exhibit.
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>> THE MODELIZER — Calvin Klein starts shortly, so who are those exclusives? Not Ymre Stiekema — she didn't even come to New York, prompting questions as to whether she's a Prada exclusive again — but V Magazine/Supreme model search winner Addison Gill is one, and a girl from Click opening — a commenter says it's Lyndsey Scott, left, as the first ever black CK exclusive, but we'll just have to see . . . she's already done Bensoni and Malan Breton this season. [The Imagist]
UPDATE: Supposedly, commenters say, neither former Calvin Klein face Toni Garrn or current face Anna Selezneva are present.
>> "Another barefoot model on the Brian Reyes catwalk. And another. What's going on here?" The Moment twittered this morning. Apparently, the shoes Brian did in collaboration with Manolo Blahnik weren't too comfortable: viewers lost count of the number of models who toppled, and at least three stopped to take their shoes off. By the final run of the show — and this never happens — all the models had taken off their shoes and were walking barefoot. So much for those Manolos, but at least they didn't cause any falls like at Herve Leger earlier this week.
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>> Erin Wasson debuted round two of her three-year RVCA collaboration last night, and it was like the Alexander Wang after-party that didn't happen, except with a clothing presentation — Wang was even there. The crowd was bumping, it was hot and sweaty, and jello shots were involved; as for the clothes, pure Erin: lots of black, leather, ripped denim, and sheer with a crochet dress and crushed velvet pants thrown in for good measure. Tiffany Tuttle of LD Tuttle contributed the rocker boots, which are actually unisex, but it was clear who the life of the party was — Erin herself, who jumped onstage with the models, screaming, flitted from guest to guest, and then plopped down spread-eagle on the floor and kicked her leopard-print booties off.
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>> Designers have been dealing with the possibility of flagging Fall 2009 sales in different ways — some have opted to stay close to their brand identity, and some, like Marc Jacobs, have ignored it all and gone full steam ahead with whatever they were feeling. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez look to be in the former category, in that instead of innovating and experimenting with new looks and shapes like they have for the past few seasons, they have gone back to their Fall roots — bustier dresses, tailored pieces, and coats in dark colors and jewel tones. Not to say that it means the brand has become stagnant — the set of looks with crushed velvet jaggedly intermeshed with sheer panels will definitely sell in the right crowd — the one Proenza is aiming for anyway — and the PS1's next iteration as puffy oversized clutch is sure to create as much fervor as its predecessor.
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>> THE MODELIZER —Agyness Deyn recently prompted rumors of retirement when she said of Fashion Week: "I do like doing it. But you know when you kind of have it figured out in your head that you don’t want to do this forever?" And it didn't help that days of runway shows passed, and no sign of Agy . . . until this evening. She did both opening and closing honors at Anna Sui Fall 2009, "skipping down the runway" at the end of the show. [BunnyBisous Twitter, CarolHan Twitter]
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Nuance
Balenciaga
Paul Smith