fashionologie

Kate Moss Covered, Mario Sorrenti Uncovered for Purple Fall 2008

fashionologie — Mon, 25 Aug 2008 16:57:13 PDT

»Mario Sorrenti returns to his modeling days, Kate Moss days for the cover of Purple Fall 2008 [FAD]

»Jenni Kayne is pregnant, will be missing her Spring 2009 presentation [FabSugar]

»Anna Sui, staunchly anti-Forever 21 though she is, seems to have copied a vintage bag for production [Fashionista]

»Calvin Klein launches e-commerce [FWD]

»Who's more expensive: September Vogue or September Elle [Jezebel]

»Designers are increasingly using embellishments and high-tech fabrics to ward off knockoffs [The Cut]

»American Apparel to do shoes? [Fashionista]

»Avion Feminin launches lingerie [Style File]

»Kate Moss has backyard teepees that are causing problems [Daily Mail]

»More Spring 2009 show packages: DNA, 1 Model Management, Women, Trump [Of the Minute]

DNA Models, 1 Model Management Involved in Denisa Dvorakova Shuffle, Scuffle

fashionologie — Fri, 01 Aug 2008 10:04:22 PDT

>> Squabbling amongst modeling agencies is nothing new — everyone wants the primo girls, after all. A couple of months ago, DNA Models's head booker Louie Chaban sent shockwaves around when he booked it over to Women Model Management, with rumors following after that he took Agyness Deyn with him (even though she's currently listed on DNA's board).

Now, DNA Models is having more booker trouble. 1 Model Management filed suit last week against the agency, alleging that DNA hired one of its former bookers, Vivien Wang, despite the fact that she signed an agreement to not work for any of 1MM's competitors for one year she left DNA in May.

And here's the rub: Vivien she took Denisa Dvorakova, an up-and-coming model who walked most of the big couture shows in July (Chanel, Christian Dior, Valentino, Christian Lacroix) with her to DNA. Losing a promising talent in the month before the fashion weeks hurts.
*image: source

Anna Maria Jagodzinska and Karmen Pedaru's Lawsuit Against Former Agency Next Models Reveals How Much Vogue, Vogue Paris Pay

fashionologie — Tue, 30 Nov 2010 13:10:59 PST

>> Back in May, Next Management sued Ford Models for allegedly poaching Anna Maria Jagodzinska, Karmen Pedaru, and Ania Cywinska; then, last week it emerged that the three models in question are suing Next. They are claiming that they left Next for Ford because it was allegedly refusing them their bookings compensation: Pedaru says Next owes her at least $400,000; Jagodzinska says she's out $230,000; and Cywinska says she has yet to be paid $30,000. All three are each seeking $1 million in punitive damages in addition to their earnings in full, and they are also gunning for the right to look at Next's books to identify other victims.

Jezebel obtained a copy of the lawsuit, which includes Anna Jagodzinska's account statement at Next as of April 23, 2010 (the three models left Next that month). Regardless of the suit, it shows what organizations pay their models and how quickly they dispatch said payments. Vogue Paris, for example, owed Jagodzinska a day rate of $125 for a job done almost a year beforehand - in May 2009. And Vogue owed Jagodzinska two day rate payments of $250 each, one for a job done in December 2009, the other from October 2009.

It's well-known that magazine gigs don't pay much, but these are cold, hard numbers to prove it. If money is what you're after, go for a gig with J.Crew (which owed Jagodzinska $15,000 for catalogue work done in January 2010), H&M (which was still on the books for $60,000 worth of work with Jagodzinska in March 2010), or an agency like Laird + Partners (on the hook for $35,000 - Jagodzinska worked with them on Bottega Veneta and Donna Karan campaigns) or Grey Paris (which is listed as owing Jagodzinska $172,500 and works with beauty clients like Dolce & Gabbana, Lacoste, and Escada). Again, it's no secret, but now there's numeric illustration of the gaping disparity between magazine work and catalogue, beauty, or campaign work.

fashionologie — Tue, 20 Apr 2010 14:12:53 PDT

>> Calvin Klein Reportedly Discontinues Use of Size Zero Models -Francisco Costa recently said that always casting the youngest, freshest-faced models was becoming "a little too formulaic" for him, and now it appears he's been swayed by the current push for healthier-appearing models, too. Costa, who is rumored to have chosen Lara Stone to represent a number of the Calvin Klein lines come Fall, has also reportedly done away with casting size 0-2 models in favor of size 2-4 models. As 1 Management's Christopher Michael notes, "a sign of the times indeed." [@TheCreatrix]

Even Models Going for Half-Price These Days

fashionologie — Mon, 02 Feb 2009 11:26:15 PST

>> Models are having a tough time of it, now that brands, from Chanel on down, are feeling the pinch. Designers hired fewer models to walk during couture last week, and labels are cutting fees in general.

"Half price! It's half-price everywhere, in Milan, even in New York," cried Ukranian model Anna Chyzh, backstage at Stephane Rolland last Monday. Aidan Jean-Marie, director at Premier Model Management in London, which has represented Claudia Schiffer in the past, confirmed that clients who used to pay a daily rate of $4,200 are now coming in with a budget of $2,100.

In response to the budget crisis, agencies are adjusting their mix of "commercial" models and pricier "catwalk" models. "You need both sides to survive the downturn, but the balance shifts slightly towards the commercial models," said Jean-Marie. "The catwalk girls are not your day-to-day girls, they are anomalies, with measurements they had when they were 16 and still have at 18." The rise of the more "commercial" look has already come into being in Spring 2009 ad casting, judging by the prevalence of Toni Garrn and Anna Maria Jagodzinska.

And it could get worse . . . »

Are Sessilee Lopez and Chanel Iman Having a Tiff?

fashionologie — Fri, 25 Sep 2009 11:49:44 PDT

>> Yesterday, Sessilee Lopez, who frequently Twittered, announced on the site, "sorry twitter but this is my very last tweet ... we had some good times and bad but now our relationship is over ... "; she's now deleted her account entirely. Many were left wondering why, but some now think that it may have to do with Chanel Iman.

Two days ago, Grazia reported from London Fashion Week, "Sessilee Lopez throwing a tantrum at Jeremy Scott and Nathan Jenden. 'No pictures please' but lots of tears and chair throwing! Not pretty." Later, they changed it out to read, "A certain model throwing . . ." Chanel Iman was backstage at Nathan Jenden, but was not at Jeremy Scott.

Sessilee's mom called Chanel out »

Bernard Arnault Doesn't Like Plastic Pendants on His Dior Bags

fashionologie — Sat, 07 Mar 2009 15:05:24 PST

>> So just how does the richest man in France, and one of the most powerful in fashion, do it? A profile in the March 2009 issue of WSJ. gives us a clue about the dealings of Bernard Arnault, CEO of LVMH, who Anna Wintour says "has a very strong understanding of what [his] designers do. If he’s concerned about something, he’ll speak up, but he’ll never tell them, ‘Do this’ or ‘Do that.”

But he will give them a strong hint. When John Galliano was presenting the Pre-Fall 2009 collection to buyers in Paris, Arnault came to oversee. Twenty-three models are escorted in for Arnault's perusal, and Galliano "reads nervously in English from a prepared speech to explain the source of his inspiration: Dior seen through the erotic lens of photographer Helmut Newton":

Arnault, seated on a white sofa, focuses on two ingredients: Is the piece “Dior” enough and is it priced right? “Ah, this is true Dior,” he states definitively of a black waist-cinched suit with pleated pockets. “It’s Dior safari,” he says of a beige coat with fox-fur collar. A skirt suit in Prince of Wales check appears: “The Dior woman will like this and will want to come back season after season,” he says.

"Ça, c’est beau - how much is it?” Arnault asks as a tall blond model stands before him in a $1,500 red double-face wool dress. “Will that sell?” he asks of an embroidered $15,000 cream-colored gown. (The answer was yes, in Monaco, Hong Kong and Moscow.) “Why not use those black masks for the ad campaign?” “If you tell me so, sir,” Galliano answers.

Now about those pesky plastic pendants »

Conde Nast Pays Models a Pittance In Trade for Prestige

fashionologie — Fri, 20 Mar 2009 17:30:37 PDT

>> It's no secret that modeling is hardly peaches and cream, but here's an eye-opener for you. Managing editor of Models.com Betty Sze asserts that when it comes to editorial work, Conde Nast (which means Vogue, Teen Vogue and the like) "pays $150 a day if you are a new model, after 1 year it goes up to $250. That means if you are Gisele [Bundchen] and work for American Vogue 2 days in a row, you would make $500. Many editorials pay nothing."

As she goes on to explain, this practice has nothing to do with the recession. "I was an agent for 10 years and I still talk to all the agents. In fact I just called one of them up to see if the rates had changed a lot. When I was an agent, 10 years ago, the new girls got $135 a day, now they get $150 per day . . . so it's increased slightly."

So why would anyone work an entire day for that rate? "Actually Conde Nast doesn't have to pay anything, I don't even know why they do. Girls don't do editorial for money! Getting editorials and covers of French Vogue for example, drives up your rate for everything else and gets you noticed by the huge money clients like Lancome and Estee Lauder. Simple. Editorials and covers are the path towards the real money."
*image: source

Christian Lacroix Is Fighting the Good Fight to Make His Fall 2009 Couture Show Happen

fashionologie — Mon, 22 Jun 2009 16:05:00 PDT

>> Last time we checked in with Christian Lacroix, he was remaining optimistic about his bankruptcy situation, and that hasn't changed, despite the fact that he needs to find an investor in the next two weeks or jobs are going to start being cut (possibly including his own). He's taken the opportunity to give up wine and chocolate, he tells the Telegraph UK: "Actually losing a few pounds and having this battle to fight makes me feel that I am undergoing a renaissance."

And fighting he is: "Don't tell anyone, because I'm not allowed to do this, but we absolutely are going to have a show in mid-July, during Fashion Week - and it won't be a funeral: it'll be a fightback."

So how's he making it happen? »

10,000 Shots of Espresso for New York Fashion Week

fashionologie — Wed, 27 Aug 2008 12:49:23 PDT

>> Yesterday, the New York Daily News published a list of fashion's 50 most powerful New Yorkers. All the usual suspects are there — Anna Wintour (#1, of course), Marc Jacobs (#3), Diane von Furstenberg (#8), Gisele Bundchen (#4) — but there are also some lesser-known additions, most of whom have interesting anecdotes.

Among them is Betsy Pearce (#20), the lawyer who brokered Phoebe Philo going to Chloe and Nicholas Ghesquiere moving to Balenciaga; Michael Oliver (#30), the store manager at 'Wichcraft in Bryant Park, who claims to have served 10,000 shots of espresso during Fall 2008 fashion week; and "Mean Christine" Chin (#34), the whose facials simultaneously induces fear and cull the best out of models's skin.
*image: source