fashionologie

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fashionologie — Fri, 10 Oct 2008 17:11:58 -0700

>> THE MODELIZER —Kate Moss and Jamie Hince are supposed to be broken up, but you never can tell in an epic on-again off-again relationship like theirs. One thing is for sure, the two are still hanging out — they were snapped together getting dinner at Selfridges today. [The Sun]

Lara Stone, Exposed, for i-D November 2008

fashionologie — Fri, 10 Oct 2008 16:37:56 -0700

>> Lara Stone is known for baring her breasts in most of her editorial spreads, inciting fanaticism in some and eliciting scoffs from others, but as she tells i-D in the November 2008 issue, she's tired of all the commotion: "Will you stop asking me questions about my tits? Oops sorry, but the world seems rather obsessed with them . . ." She graces the cover of the magazine, all chiseled cheeks, gap teeth and bleached eyebrows — no breasts in sight — but when the accompanying tagline reads, "Yes, I think I'm sexy," what does she expect?

The world's obsession started when Lara was young.

My mother tells me of when I was 10 or 11 and I would wear really tight, short skirts and crop tops. All the local men would wolf whistle and stop and stare, but I didn't realize why at the time.

But her mother did . . . and she wasn't sure what to do about it.

The first time she saw me naked she sent this whole long big email, that was sooo sweet. She had seen the pictures from Purple by Inez and Vinoodh of me, butt naked, in the studio. She was like 'Lara, if you don't want to do this, you can just say no, you can always move back home with us'. She's so sweet.

[break]Catwalk falls, more nudity, and Lara the librarian . . . »[/break]

Lara doesn't mind the whole nudity thing anymore.

When I was 16, being naked was a problem, but it has never really been an issue for me. Better naked than wearing really tight corsets. I don't put myself in situations that I feel uncomfortable with, you know, someday my children are going to see this. My tits are not really that big. Next season I might go for a more dressed up Lara, like a librarian or something.

Her assets are what pay the bills, after all.

Every time I go to the dentist they always say, 'you really need to fix that gap of yours.' I'm like, 'my gap is paying your dentist bills . . .'

She has Carine Roitfeld to thank for her bleached eyebrows, and Riccardo Tisci to thank for her big break.

When I went to see Riccardo, he called Carine and said 'Oh my god you have to meet this girl,' I met Carine, the next day we were working together and we've been working together ever since.

And thank goodness for editorial — she blames her stomping down the catwalk on the fact that her feet are a size smaller than sample size.

I hate catwalk because 1) I'm not very good at it, 2) I'm always scared sh*tless and 3) . . . I suck at it. I cannot walk in heels. At all. I'm always completely terrified I'm going to fall over, which I did three times my first season. I fell over in London, Milan and in Paris. I had a Chanel fitting that afternoon and it was really embarrassing. I was like, 'Sorry Karl [Lagerfeld]', he didn't have a clue what I was talking about!

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fashionologie — Fri, 10 Oct 2008 15:10:07 -0700

>> INSIDER WIRE —After juggling four weeks of fashion shows in her new position as Marie Claire fashion director, Nina Garcia was spotted juggling her one year-old son, Lucas Conrod, in LA this week. Besides trading in fashion for family, she's also switched from staggering heels and tailored dresses to ripped jeans and flats for the occasion. [Perez Hilton]

Gisele Bundchen Brings the Blackcowboy Home

fashionologie — Fri, 10 Oct 2008 14:56:06 -0700

>> While her former colleagues get ready to tape the 2008 Victoria's Secret Fashion Show in Miami next month, Gisele Bundchen taped a music video yesterday in LA. The video — for Blackcowboy's new single "Come On" — is directed by Kevin Connolly, and Tobey Maguire and Lukas Haas were both on set, so it sounds like Gisele is still up to doing favors for friends of her former flame Leonardo DiCaprio. She apparently knows the band through Lukas — and they're lucky to have her, judging by how much buzz this shoot has already created for them.
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fashionologie — Fri, 10 Oct 2008 12:21:31 -0700

>> THE MODELIZER — IMG may have Kori-Richardson look-alike Taylor Momsen, but Elite just signed Dree Hemingway, as in daughter of Mariel Hemingway and great-granddaughter of Ernest Hemingway. She joins the Elite+ board, which also houses other well-familied models like Lydia Hearst, Vanessa Traina, Poppy Delevigne, and Riley Keough, and also has a couple of upcoming movie roles in the bag. [Elite clips, Elite]

Model.Live Episode Ten: The End of an Era

fashionologie — Fri, 10 Oct 2008 11:50:29 -0700

>> As we left off Model.Live mid-Paris Fashion Week, Cato van Ee was booking everything . . . and Madeline Kragh wasn't so happy with her progress. Turns out that she did end up booking one show — Manish Arora. Manish liked Madeline so much, he asked her to close the show, her only instruction: "I want you to do whatever you want." Madeline left on a high note, ready to grow out her hair, hoping that it would allow her to book more in the future.

Austria also ended up booking one show in Paris, but her agency still isn't convinced she's ready to be a model. Although she was asked to think about sitting out a year — she's only 16 — Austria is determined, not wanting to go back to her old life that she already gave up. As for Cato, she's just worried about keeping herself at the level she's attained: "Sometimes it's harder to stay on top than get on top." So how will they do booking advertising and editorial post-Fashion Month? Next episode will hopefully tell.

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fashionologie — Fri, 10 Oct 2008 11:13:01 -0700

>> INSIDER WIRE —Beyond all her normal Fashion Week wardrobe — Marc Jacobs, Margiela, Balenciaga — Carine Roitfeld added two carry-overs from Men's Paris Fashion Week in June into the mix: a floppy hat and a distressed denim skirt. The choices are still dividing opinions, but at least now you know that the skirt is the Charlotte by Earnest Sewn. [Grazia]

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Narciso Rodriguez Goes It Solo

fashionologie — Thu, 09 Oct 2008 15:54:33 -0700

>> After speculation that Narciso Rodriguez and his backers Liz Claiborne were parting ways was floated around last month, they confirmed their separation in a joint statement yesterday.

For the first time, Narciso, who launched his collection in 1997 thanks to a partnership with Aeffe SpA, will be financially independent, as Liz Claiborne has allowed him to buy back their stake — for a rumored $12 million — and regain all trademarks. This solo situation, assuming that his finances are all in order (before Claiborne invested, he was struggling to make ends meet; Donna Karan was sending rolls of fabric over), sounds ideal for Narciso — who has a notoriously difficult reputation.

The termination of his partnership with Claiborne is widely believed to be amicable, though, and Narciso is looking forward to his "independent time": "Our business is on target and we have full confidence in the future of the company. We are also enjoying tremendous success with our fragrances and are now exploring various licensing opportunities." Maybe his well-received Fall 2008 collection made the world of difference he needed, money-wise?
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fashionologie — Thu, 09 Oct 2008 14:33:56 -0700

>> INSIDER WIRE —After she enjoyed his company front row during Milan Men's Fashion Week in June, Gerard Butler is still supposedly Anna Wintour's new "obsession." A source says she "thinks he's amazing" and "talks about him all the time." Maybe she'll start skipping shows for Gerard Butler movie premieres like she'll do for Roger Federer matches? [Page Six]

The Future of POP . . . and Katie Grand

fashionologie — Thu, 09 Oct 2008 12:40:49 -0700

>> We know that Katie Grand is leaving POP to start a new edgy fashion magazine for Conde Nast UK, but what's going to happen to POP after its founder leaves? And how did this all come about in the first place?

It turns out that Conde originally tried to buy POP — "we kept hearing [the magazine's publisher Bauer] weren't very committed to POP" — but Bauer declined. Instead, Conde Nast poached Katie, who looked at either option — moving POP or just herself to Conde — as okay: "I kind of knew that Condé Nast had put in bids for POP. I thought, if it happens, great. If not, it would also be great to do something new . . . Maybe it's better just to do something that's completely a fresh start."

By the end of her run at Bauer — which does a lot of business with its weekly titles like Heat and Grazia — Katie was feeling out of place: "There was a definite feeling of being a square peg in a round hole. We were acutely aware of doing something different from everyone else. By the end, to be walking through radio advertising or whatever and be openly called 'the weirdos', it was just unpleasant."

She's still currently working on the December issue of POP — likely to be her last — and is taking her whole POP team with her to the new, untitled magazine at Conde Nast. So what is Bauer doing with POP in the post-Katie era? According to David Davies, managing director of Bauer's women's magazines division, this is just a regular editor turnover, and POP will continue to exist: "We'll continue in the more maverick role. Katie has probably achieved what she's going to with the title. POP will be very different going forward and it's very exciting for us."
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fashionologie — Thu, 09 Oct 2008 12:04:01 -0700

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Maybe the next trend is stay the same. Yves Saint Laurent did essentially the same collection for eight seasons in a row. I like that idea. I think, on some level, we could all use a break.

”— Jonathan Saunders

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fashionologie — Thu, 09 Oct 2008 11:05:38 -0700

>> INSIDER WIRE —Marc Jacobs's holiday parties are famous — mostly because of Marc's outrageous pigeon, camel toe, or ketchup costumes — and he's just announced the 2008 theme: "Rock and Roll Circus," referencing the 1968 documentary The Rolling Stones Rock and Roll Circus. The only problem is, Diesel is throwing a big gala on Saturday with the same exact theme. Will Marc stick to his original theme for the Dec. 10 bash? Maybe a couple of months will help everybody forget. [WWD]

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Lolita Lily Cole for Playboy France October 2008

fashionologie — Thu, 09 Oct 2008 10:44:25 -0700

>> Just a few days ago, Lily Cole attended her matriculation ceremony at Cambridge, all buttoned-up in scarf, beret, and coat, and now we get to see quite a different side of her, courtesy of the October 2008 issue of Playboy France. Inside, "Sweet Lily" sports lingerie and less for her saccharine sixties-themed editorial, a complement to her teddy-and-me cover for the magazine.

Needless to say, the gallery below is NSFW.
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fashionologie — Wed, 08 Oct 2008 15:43:44 -0700

>> ON THE CAMPAIGN TRAIL —Now that Louis Vuitton Journeys face Sofia Coppola has moved on to designing shoes and handbags for the brand, it's time for the campaign to have some new blood. That order is filled by Sean Connery, whose Anne Leibovitz-lensed ad debuts later this month, featuring the original James Bond lounging on a dock in the Bahamas next to the requisite Vuitton luggage. [WWD]

Kate Moss Demonstrates Her British Style Genius

fashionologie — Wed, 08 Oct 2008 15:21:35 -0700

>> It's always a treat to see Kate Moss talk — since she doesn't log much on camera time, with the exception of all those Rimmel commercials — and it's even better when she's making silly faces, telling stories about catching girls in her Topshop line, and being all around cheeky. Last night, she did just that on the new BBC series British Style Genius, which for a few minutes follows Kate as she purrs and paws her way through Topshop meetings about her Fall 2008 line. If you're in the UK, you can watch the whole episode here, but we boiled all the good Kate parts into one for all below.

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fashionologie — Wed, 08 Oct 2008 14:16:43 -0700

>> THE MODELIZER —Post-runway show, some designers give the models the clothes or shoes they wore down the catwalk, others gift handbags or jewelry, but Alexander McQueen? He opts for a t-shirt. This season, it was black with spattered ivory and lime paint and a purple heart — as seen on Alyona Osmanova — and "the girls hold onto them like treasure, wearing them season in and season out." [Go Backstage]

Gilles Bensimon to Leave Elle for Nina Garcia?

fashionologie — Wed, 08 Oct 2008 13:56:04 -0700

>> The shakeups at Elle just keep on coming. Ever since creative director Joe Zee joined the team in January 2007, former longtime creative director Gilles Bensimon has seen his role at the magazine majorly diminished — his title changed to international creative director, his name moved from top of the masthead to the bottom.

He usually sits with the Elle team during Fashion Month, but during New York Fashion Week, he was a no-show due to a "top-secret project" in Paris. He also didn't show at Elle's Women in Hollywood Awards Monday, and he has only photographed three out of the eleven Elle cover stories this year — compared to going twelve for twelve last year.

It comes as no surprised that Gilles would want to get out — and Nina Garcia may be just the woman to help him. His contract with Elle expires at the end of the year, so it's the perfect time for him to make his move. Rumors started flying when he arrived at the Chanel show last week in a towncar with Nina, his former colleague, who is now trying to increase fashion coverage in her new position as fashion director at Marie Claire. Is Nina wooing Gilles, who used to be Elle's go-to celebrity photographer, to Marie Claire? That is the allegation . . .
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fashionologie — Wed, 08 Oct 2008 13:09:28 -0700

>> INSIDER WIRE —Did she do it as a show of her power? A sign of disrespect? Because it surely wasn't ignorance that Anna Wintour displayed when she wore a fur scarf last week to Stella McCartney's show. Stella, who famously refuses to work with leather or fur, can't have been pleased . . . [The Cut]

IMG Parts Ways with LA Fashion Week

fashionologie — Tue, 07 Oct 2008 17:36:47 -0700

>> After over a month of rumors, Smashbox Studios finally confirmed that it was ending its five year partnership with IMG after Spring 2009 LA Fashion Week closes Oct. 16.

Dean and Davis Factor, co-owners of Smashbox, the current LAFW venue, wanted to relocate the event closer to Hollywood, "take it to the next level," but "New York is [IMG's] big focus and it’s difficult with everything they have going on all over the world. It would be hard for them to do LA on the level they do New York. My brother and I can."

So where does that leave LA Fashion Week? As part of its agreement with the Factors, IMG is not able to produce a Fashion Week, so it's all up to the brothers, who say they remain committed to the event. Ideally, they're looking at Hollywood rather than the current Culver City location: "Hollywood embraces the city of Los Angeles, there’s so much creative stuff to take advantage of here, the red carpet, costume design, stylists, everything from the surf industry to Maxfield’s."

But it may not be in the same runway show form: "We’re going a completely different route." Will all the new changes be effective in harnessing a spot as the fifth major Fashion Week? The Factors have their work cut out for them.
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fashionologie — Tue, 07 Oct 2008 17:00:52 -0700

>> INSIDER WIRE —Watch out, Colette? Attending shows, posing for editorials, and designing for Lee Cooper isn't enough fashion involvement for Lou Doillon: She's scouting a location in Paris to open a concept store as early as next year: "We’ll have a mix of fashion, literature, modern and old, with more of an English than French influence, and not conventional." [WWD]

Marco Zanini: The Next Rochas Man?

fashionologie — Tue, 07 Oct 2008 15:49:39 -0700

>> Just hours after we learned that Rochas's ready-to-wear department is being opened back up, designer names are already being thrown around to head the comeback. More specifically one name — Marco Zanini, the designer who just a few months back was ousted from Halston.

Although his role in that brand rejuvenation didn't work out so well, he is currently in talks to design Rochas, since former Rochas designer Olivier Theyskens is happily holed up at Nina Ricci and all. No confirmation from Rochas's new ready-to-wear producer Gibo just yet, but we're sure to hear something — confirmation or not — sooner rather than later, since they have a collection to get started on for March 2009.
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fashionologie — Tue, 07 Oct 2008 15:37:54 -0700

>> THE MODELIZER —Catherine McNeil missed both Paris and Milan Fashion Weeks, with her Sydney agent only offering that she was "unwell" as explanation. But according to her grandmother, it's nothing to worry about — only exhaustion and homesickness: "She's just burned out." Instead of gracing catwalks aplenty, McNeil was recuperating in New York. [The Courier-Mail]

Jessica Stam's Purple Pad

fashionologie — Tue, 07 Oct 2008 14:29:38 -0700

>> Last year, Jessica Stam had an East Village apartment and no decorator — all her books were still in boxes. This year, she has a decorator who convinced her to move apartments — the last one had "no view, no charm, and insufficient space" — and now has a new apartment a few blocks over, full of purple, flowers, and with a look "like Indiana Jones had designed a Marriott." I'm not sure if that's good or not, but the October 2008 issue of Elle Decor has a full look inside, so you can decide yourself. She must have liked it; The same decorator is now working on her East Hampton home.
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fashionologie — Tue, 07 Oct 2008 14:04:54 -0700

>> MODA OPERANDI —Sergio Rossi has a new main man: Francesco Russo, who has designed footwear at Yves Saint Laurent since 2000. He replaces Edmundo Castillo, who exited the brand, as creative director of women’s and men’s footwear, bags and accessories, and will present his first collection for Fall 2009. [WWD]