pre Fall

Sarah Burton's Pre-Fall 2013 collection for Alexander McQueen draws on nuns' habits and the kind of garments usually reserved for the highest-ranking clergy in the Catholic Church. Most of the looks are rendered in black and white, but not everything about this offering is austere and puritanical. A few evening ensembles have plunging necklines, and the hem of one dress stops mid-thigh. A high-heeled take on the pilgrim shoe and an emphasis on capes add to the religious drama here, but none of that is as dramatic as the final look: a gray cape with an overlay of white flowers.

Photos courtesy of Alexander McQueen.

The spirit of riding a roaring Harley down an open highway permeated Phillip Lim's Pre-Fall 2013 collection. If the leather jackets and pants with quilted knee panels didn't express that feeling enough, the stylized phoenix and zippers that acted as decorations should.

Those pieces were appealing enough on their own, but Lim balanced them with garments that even dedicated pedestrians will want to wear. Of note: otherwise simple skirts featuring asymmetrical hems, outerwear with rounded shoulders, oversize knitwear pieces, and a pale green parka that looked perfectly cozy paired with a navy snood and maroon trousers.

Photos courtesy of 3.1 Phillip Lim.

We're taking a closer look at the standout details of the Pre-Fall 2012 collections. In this batch of fresh arm and statement footwear from Stella McCartney, Phillip Lim, and Jason Wu, we've picked the best of the bunch. Stella McCartney zeroes in on that London sophisticate with downtown cool; Jason Wu delivers a crop of ladylike bags and shoes — all with pretty pops of color and dainty detailing; and Phillip Lim crafts his minimalist cool with a brilliant palette (like the update on the Pashli in a cherry hue!). Inside, we're picking favorites and zeroing in on the pieces we love. Click on for a glimpse of the goodies to come.

>> "Really, it's just the flavor," said Stefano Pilati, when describing his Pre-Fall 2011 collection for Yves Saint Laurent. "When you go back to look at these things, they are amazing, but you cannot wear them now." The flavor that he was referring to? Yves Saint Laurent's poignant Opium collection of 1977 and the forties-inspired YSL collection from 1971. To make the look modern, Pilati remixed Saint Laurent's old day opulence by adding long sleeves — a key Pre-Fall trend — to a reproduced print dress from the archive. And: decadent cashmere coats came equipped with detachable fox fur hoods.

>> Jean Paul Gaultier was all about classic with a twist for his Pre-Fall 2011 collection. The twist — edgy embellishments — came in the form of double waistband trousers, ruched pinstriped blazers, and zipper-adorned fur coats. However, the collection's piece de resistance was a double-duty red dress, which can be transformed into a long gown or short cocktail dress by simply unhooking a loop.

>> Marni never fails to bring home the eclectic splendor, and its Pre-Fall collection only solidifies Consuelo Castiglioni's creative edge. Castiglioni describes the collection as "witty, easy, oversized — a complete wardrobe for a total individual." Take a look at the complete mix, featuring bold striped knits, silk sweatshirts, abstract floral print dresses, and quilted skirts, in the slideshow.

>> For Pre-Fall 2011, Thakoon Panichgul focused on minimal cuts with maximum punch. The collection, which Panichgul described as "soft still, but cleaner" showed off a mix styles including sheer, printed, and monochromatic looks. “The language here is softer, there’s a cleaner drape and cleaner softness,” said Panichgul. “I like the idea of matchy-matchy,” he added. And apparently, the color palette was inspired by a piece of patent leather: “It was quite strong. The idea came from shoes.”

The fashion world will never be done mourning Alexander McQueen. But, according to PPR president Francois-Henri Pinault, the brand will go on. Before we witness McQueen's last Fall RTW collection at Paris Fashion Week, let's marvel at his pre-Fall pieces. Each one more stunning than the next, further solidifying the late designer's genius status. Tweeds, graphics, suits, coats, fur, lace — not to be missed, seriously.

The latest Pre-Fall '10 collections have been released, and the forecast calls for neon, velvet, fur, draping, and structure. While most designers went down the posh path, Nicolas Ghesquière took Balenciaga back to the sporty trail. In contrast, Phoebe Philo's Celine (left) is more luxurious via feathers, sheepskin, and sharp outerwear. Proceed to see which direction Lanvin, Proenza Schouler, Alberta Ferretti, and Nina Ricci have taken for Pre-Fall.

Although working without a head designer, Maison Martin Margiela turns out a few multifunctional fashion pieces for pre-fall—specifically an asymmetric jumpsuit that turns into an apron pant and a classic trench that folds into a peacoat.

Source: WWD