What's it like in the hours and minutes before a runway show? Lineups and rehearsals are just the beginning. Then comes the frenetic energy backstage, where for each model there's a hairstylist, makeup artist, manicurist, and stylist — all working her up at once. We take you behind the scenes for it all at the Zadig & Voltaire show. Plus, find out what the French label's creative director tells us about the new collection.
At Zadig & Voltaire's second-ever runway show, creative director Cecilia Bonstrom delivered a Spring 2014 collection that — much like the hard-meets-soft DNA of a brand epitomized by Erin Wasson, a muse to founder Thierry Gillier — was both assertive and delicate. It was also, for a French label, very American. Cowboy-style belts punched with studded eagles, biker jackets with black fringe, and overstitched ranger boots in cracked leather stood out most, especially when paired with contradictory pieces like silk undershirts and lace shawls. And, of course, for a brand that has its own indie music label, the soundtrack to the runway was perfectly crafted (MS MR's "Hurricane" got showgoers swaying in their seats, for instance) to fit this lineups rock 'n' roll vibe, but with some rounded edges.
>> Erin Wasson's new collaboration — the Erin Meets Zadig line, done with French luxury lifestyle brand Zadig & Voltaire — is set to be introduced during Paris Couture Week in July. The presentation will have a strong musical element, according to Zadig & Voltaire founder Thierry Gillier, which comes as no surprise — when Wasson designed her RVCA line, those presentations often had a live band performance; the last two involved Gang Gang Dance and Yeasayer.
But the similarities between her RVCA and Zadig & Voltaire collaborations stop there, Wasson says: “Zadig & Voltaire is a sophisticated French brand. I was aware of this difference [from RVCA] when we started developing the collection. We worked with more luxurious fabrics and materials.” Erin Meets Zadig was inspired by “life, classic cars, and Rod Stewart,” Wasson adds: “The collection feels almost sensual. I wanted it to be about basic shapes with subtle texture."
Wasson features in the Zadig & Voltaire Spring 2011 and Fall 2011 ad campaigns, as well as the lookbook for Erin Meets Zadig, shot by Fred Meylan in the Hamptons (a few images in the slideshow). Gillier notes: “Erin’s capsule is really different from what we are doing today. It allows us to offer an even more distinctive product. We are rock ’n’ roll, but Erin is even more rock ’n’ roll.”
The 15-piece offering, which includes a studded suede jacket, leather pants, a cashmere jumpsuit, and a python bag and boots, ranges from 90 euros ($120) for a cotton tank to 1,050 euros ($1,400) for a foal skin coat. It will be launched exclusively on Net-a-Porter in September, before rolling out in 80 Zadig & Voltaire stores worldwide. Though it was originally intended to be a one-off, the capsule collection could evolve into another type of project in coming seasons, Gillier said: “We are already exploring different ideas to do something new next season with her and with other people.”
The Tom Ford Influence—Alberta Ferretti Employs Real Women as Models for Pitti Show; Erin Wasson Has a New Design Collaboration
- Alberta Ferretti took a page out of Tom Ford's book and had the likes of Camilla Belle, Carmen Dell'Orefice, Poppy Delevigne, Paz de la Huerta, and Marisa Berenson walk in place of models as part of her Florentine show to open Pitti Immagine Uomo last night, for which she created an exclusive 30-piece collection [Style.com, Fashionista]
- The Costume Institute received a donation of $10 million from Jonathan and Lizzie Tisch to create a new gallery space; although this gift was the "tipping point" to start construction next year, fundraising for the project started several years ago and has been helped in large part by Anna Wintour and the Costume Institute Gala benefit [NY Times]
- Gucci Group parent company PPR just created a new business unit dedicated to developing online retail. CEO François-Henri Pinault called e-commerce a "strategic priority," adding: “My goal [is] to increase our digital presence and accelerate our growth in online sales, which should reach 10 percent of Gucci Group and Puma’s consolidated revenues over the next few years” [WWD]
- Bibhu Mohapatra, Pamela Love, Mandy Coon, The Lake & Stars, M. Patmos, and Study NY were all awarded $25,000 Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation grants to put toward their upcoming New York Fashion Week shows [WWD]
- Erin Wasson is designing a capsule collection for Zadig & Voltaire [ElleUK]
- W's February 2011 cover features a first look at sweet-looking Rooney Mara's transformation into punky Lisbeth Salander for David Fincher's upcoming The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo film [W]
- Instead of pouting across the board as in seasons past, models have notably been captured smiling in both the Valentino and Chloe Spring 2011 ad campaigns [Garance Dore]
- Jessica Stam's left arm is in a sling after she sprained and fractured it while snowboarding in Montana over the holidays [Modelinia]
- Using the same technology that made the Death Star explode in Star Wars, Loewe blows up its Amazona bag over and over in a new brand video [Style File]