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Steven Kolb

Fall 2009 Fashion Week: Baubles, Baubles, Baubles
Alexander Wang

Fall 2009 Fashion Week: Baubles, Baubles, Baubles

>> Fall 2009 is jewelry's time to shine, judging by all of the collaborations debuting during Fashion Week.  Besides Alexander Wang working with Paris Kain of AbraxasRex on "industrial," "animalistic" pieces, Bensoni commissioned Bing Bang's Anna Sheffield to do candy heart necklaces with pyramid pendants, Jason Wu enlisted Philip Crangi to add a "tough element" to his collection, Gilles Mendel and Subversive's Justin Giunta teamed up for chains and jewels to will appear on and worked into the J.Mendel collection, Eddie Borgo channeled his triangle obsession for Jen Kao, producing a sharp set of baubles — and he also working with Joseph Altuzarra.  Not to mention a variety of other partners in jeweldom: Hervé Van der Straeten and Ruffian, Thakoon and Fenton's Dana Lorenz, DanniJo and Trovata, Roxanne Assouline and Brian Reyes .
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Hervé Van der Straeten for Ruffian

>> Fall 2009 is jewelry's time to shine, judging by all of the collaborations debuting during Fashion Week.  Besides Alexander Wang working with Paris Kain of AbraxasRex on "industrial," "animalistic" pieces, Bensoni commissioned Bing Bang's Anna Sheffield to do candy heart necklaces with pyramid pendants, Jason Wu enlisted Philip Crangi to add a "tough element" to his collection, Gilles Mendel and Subversive's Justin Giunta teamed up for chains and jewels to will appear on and worked into the J.Mendel collection, Eddie Borgo channeled his triangle obsession for Jen Kao, producing a sharp set of baubles — and he also working with Joseph Altuzarra.  Not to mention a variety of other partners in jeweldom: Hervé Van der Straeten and Ruffian, Thakoon and Fenton's Dana Lorenz, DanniJo and Trovata, Roxanne Assouline and Brian Reyes . . .

Needless to say, the bijoux will be aplenty this season — especially because those partnerships are a good way to for jewelry designers get pieces out there without spending money — "You'll see a lot of collaborations going on with designers — like Irene Neuwirth is doing jewelry for Richard Chai — so you can see the talent at the same time," says CFDA executive director Steven Kolb.
*image: source, source, source

AbraxasRex for Alexander Wang Eddie Borgo for Jen Kao (two more pieces <a href="http:/... Hervé Van der Straeten for Ruffian
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CFDA Brings Booth, Hopes to Bring Diversity to the Tents
Diane Von Furstenberg

CFDA Brings Booth, Hopes to Bring Diversity to the Tents

>> The CFDA wouldn't support the British Fashion Council requiring models to obtain a health certificate, but they will be putting up a booth in the lobby and backstage of the Bryant Park tents during New York Fashion Week.  In partnership with the Renfrew Center, a residential treatment facility for eating disorders, the booth will offer a clinician on site to answer any questions and provide referrals, information on the CFDA's current health guidelines, and an informational brochure on the signs and symptoms of eating disorders.  Visitors will also be able to sign a proclamation of support for the health guidelines — the list of over 300 signatures already includes Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren, Vera Wang, Derek Lam, Carolina Herrera, several editors, agents and models.
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>> The CFDA wouldn't support the British Fashion Council requiring models to obtain a health certificate, but they will be putting up a booth in the lobby and backstage of the Bryant Park tents during New York Fashion Week. 

In partnership with the Renfrew Center, a residential treatment facility for eating disorders, the booth will offer a clinician on site to answer any questions and provide referrals, information on the CFDA's current health guidelines, and an informational brochure on the signs and symptoms of eating disorders. 

Visitors will also be able to sign a proclamation of support for the health guidelines — the list of over 300 signatures already includes Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren, Vera Wang, Derek Lam, Carolina Herrera, several editors, agents and models.

But health isn't the only issue on the CFDA's mind. Just last week, president Diane von Furstenberg and executive director Steven Kolb sent out a letter to the members, encouraging diversity on the runways:

We remain in full support of bringing more diversity to the runway and urge you to create shows that are truly multicultural. The fashion industry has great power. Together we can influence the vision of beauty so women can be celebrated no matter their size or skin color.

Only one short week and we'll see if either of these methods have any effects — somehow, I don't see the booth having any serious influence.
*image: source

Paris, New York, Milan Force London to Renege on Model Health Certificate Requirement
british fashion council

Paris, New York, Milan Force London to Renege on Model Health Certificate Requirement

>> A lot of attention has been placed lately on increasing model diversity, but what about that other troubled topic — model weight?  Today, the British Fashion Council announced that their initiative to ban "size zero" models from the London catwalks next month has been abandoned after the other three major fashion capitals refused to follow suit.  The plan was to require models to obtain a doctor's certificate proving they were in good health, but the Chambre Syndicale in Paris thought imposing model health certificates lay outside their realm, the Camera Nazionale della Moda in Milan preferred self-regulation, and according to Steven Kolb, executive director of New York's CFDA: We looked at things like doctor’s certification and body mass index and decided that, for us, it wasn’t the appropriate recommendation.
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>> A lot of attention has been placed lately on increasing model diversity, but what about that other troubled topic — model weight? 

Today, the British Fashion Council announced that their initiative to ban "size zero" models from the London catwalks next month has been abandoned after the other three major fashion capitals refused to follow suit. 

The plan was to require models to obtain a doctor's certificate proving they were in good health, but the Chambre Syndicale in Paris thought imposing model health certificates lay outside their realm, the Camera Nazionale della Moda in Milan preferred self-regulation, and according to Steven Kolb, executive director of New York's CFDA:

We looked at things like doctor’s certification and body mass index and decided that, for us, it wasn’t the appropriate recommendation. We felt it was wrong to force a girl to have a physical examination, especially because the signs of a problem aren’t always obvious.

After the negative reaction of its peers, London deferred — with fashion week coming up next month, if the city had imposed such strict standards alone, models would likely have skipped the city altogether.
*image: source