Source: Instagram User StevenKolb
>> With a list of nominees that includes The Row's Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen and Proenza Schouler's Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez — not to mention a list of honorees that includes Rei Kawakubo and Johnny Depp — this year's CFDA Awards promise to be extra-exciting. At the announcement event in March — held at Diane von Furstenberg's studio and attended by Phillip Lim, Joe Zee, and Rachel Roy — the anticipation was nearly palpable.
"Winning a CFDA Fashion Award is the highest and one of the most coveted honors one can receive in our industry," CEO Steven Kolb said as he announced the nominees and honorees. For a complete list of those who just may receive that great honor on June 4 — as well as a list of those who definitely will, via the Council's prestigious achievement awards — see below. Then, get excited for next week's big show — which will be br>broadcast online for the first time ever this year — with an inside peek at the announcement event.
Womenswear Designer of the Year Nominees
Ashley & Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row
Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez for Proenza Schouler
Menswear Designer of the Year Nominees
Accessory Designer of the Year Nominees
Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez for Proenza Schouler
Swarovski Award For Emerging Talent in Womenswear Nominees
Chris Peters & Shane Gabier for Creatures of the Wind
Max Osterweis & Erin Beatty for Suno
Swarovski Award For Emerging Talent in Menswear Nominees
Swarovski Award For Emerging Talent in Accessory Design
Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award Winner
International Award Winner
Eleanor Lambert Founders Award Winner
Eugenia Sheppard Media Award Winners
Scott Schuman & Garance Doré
Fashion Icon Award Winner
>> The Spring 2013 Fashion Week date dispute finally seems to be settling down. In order to accommodate Milan's recent push for an earlier schedule, New York and London have agreed to shift the dates of their own Sept. 2012 shows. New York Fashion Week will now take place Sept. 6 through 13, with London following from Sept. 14 to 18. br>
"We've been back and forth on this. People are anxious and need to know the dates. There's no value for the cities to compete. In the spirit of working together, London and New York are in agreement that we will go in the earlier period, but with the hope that the four cities will come out of this confusion and work together to plan future show weeks. We need to begin to look at the fashion season not as individual fashion weeks, but very much as a global business," The CFDA's Steven Kolb, explained.
Spring 2013 Milan Fashion Week will take place Sept. 18 to 25, with Paris starting Sept. 25 and finishing the season October 2.
>> Just before last season, CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg encouraged designers to forego hiring models under 16; however, after her show last season, von Furstenberg discovered that she had hired 15-year-old Hailey Clauson to walk, and subsequently issued an apology.
This season, von Furstenberg and the CFDA are taking preventative measures further, recommending that models produce a valid ID on the show day, ensuring that they are a minimum of 16 years old. “The casting agents for the Diane von Furstenberg show will be doing this and we encourage others to do the same,” the letter which von Furstenberg and CFDA CEO Steven Kolb sent out yesterday, stated. It also noted that all top model agencies had pledged not to send models under 16 for shows.
Von Furstenberg is not the only major New York designer who has had issues with model-age confusion. Michael Kors tells Lauren Hutton in the new issue of Interview: "I still think it’s weird when models come in on go-sees. I don’t understand how anyone can think that a model is a mannequin. I like to think of them as just women ... When they come in, I’m always like, 'Where are you from? Tell me about your life.' That’s the first thing I say. We were laughing, though, because two seasons ago, I said, 'You know what? These girls we’re seeing are too young. They are children.' It’s silly ... I said two years ago, 'No models under 16.' Well, of course, right after I said that, we started seeing all of these girls from Eastern Europe, and every girl who’d walk in, you’d say, 'Hi. What’s your name?' And she’d be like, 'I’m Svetlana.' I’m like, 'Svetlana, where are you from?' 'Ukraine.' 'Svetlana, how old are you?' '16.' Next girl walks in — she’s from Eastern Europe and 16. Next one? Eastern European and 16. I was like, 'Was there a bus?' But I still think it’s a tricky thing because no matter how beautiful you might be at 15 or 16, the simple truth is that you haven’t lived enough to really know how to project anything in a photograph. It’s like a kind of blank beauty."
>> The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund judging committee — which this year includes Jack McCollough, Lazaro Hernandez, Vogue's Mark Holgate, Jeffrey Kalinsky of Jeffrey and Nordstrom, CFDA executive director Steven Kolb, Reed Krakoff, Andrew Rosen, Diane von Furstenberg, Jenna Lyons, and Anna Wintour — have determined the 2011 finalists. They are:
AA, Antonio Azzuolo
Altuzarra, Joseph Altuzarra
Carlos Campos, Carlos Campos
Creatures of the Wind, Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters
Cushnie Et Ochs, Michelle Ochs and Carly Cushnie
Finn Jewelry, Soraya Silchenstedt
Fenton/Fallon, Dana Lorenz
Ohne Titel, Alexa Adams and Flora Gill
Suno, Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty
Joseph Altuzarra and Pamela Love are repeat finalists from last year, and Ohne Titel was a finalist in 2009. The winner and two runners-up will be announced Nov. 14.
>> Last night, with the help of keynote speaker Alber Elbaz, who doled out gems on the perils of success — "It's like a bottle of perfume. You smell it, you don't sniff it or drink it" — Alaia veteran and Michelle Obama favorite Sophie Theallet took home the 2009 Vogue/Fashion Fund prize of $200,000 and a year of mentoring. Fellow nominees Patrik Ervell and Monique Pean were named runners-up, and received $50,000 each plus a business mentor.
In her speech, Anna Wintour said that in addition to the US, Italy, and the UK — which just started a similar talent-nurturing program — she just met with the French minister of culture about mirroring the contest there. "And Brazil, India, Russia, and China aren't far behind."
"The money and the mentoring will help Ms. Theallet because she needs to be able to offer more range in her collection, as well as expand her production options. She has such a distinctly feminine eye, and the skills, that I’ve often wondered why a big retailer doesn’t ask Ms. Theallet to design some blouses and summer dresses for them, using the store’s resources and manufacturing connections."
>> CFDA, New York City Join to Subsidize Fashion Incubator for Emerging Designers —On Monday, New York City's Bloomberg administration announced that it will be subsidizing rent for a 10,000 square foot fashion incubator space; emerging designers will compete for twelve spaces in a showroom building in the garment district, with rent coming in at only $1,500 instead of the current $2,900 market price for a comparable space. The new tenants will be selected through a competition; winners will be announced in December and move-in — with a lease lasting two years — is expected in February. The applicants must be "working designers," according to CFDA executive director Steven Kolb, who have been in the business for a year and a half, employ a staff, and have both media attention and orders from top retailers. The CFDA also plans on giving the selected designers educational and industry support. [NYTimes City Room]
>> INSIDER WIRE —Late last month, a group of designers, including Narciso Rodriguez, Maria Cornejo, Jason Wu, and Thakoon Panichgul, took a trip to Washington, DC accompanied by CFDA executive director Steven Kolb to lobby for an anti-piracy bill to stop mass retailers from knocking off their ideas. But when Rick Owens was recently asked if he cares that his look is being rampantly copied, his reply? "No-oo. I guess it's a compliment." [Guardian]