Spring 2010 Paris Fashion Week

Alber Elbaz Serves Up Cocktails and Cocktail Dresses for Spring 2010
Paris Fashion Week

Alber Elbaz Serves Up Cocktails and Cocktail Dresses for Spring 2010

>> Spring 2010 is a party for Alber Elbaz: tables were erected in the middle of the runway pre-show, with bow-tied waiters offering up puff pastries and fruity frozen cocktails with umbrellas as salsa music played in the background.  Lanvin paper fans were placed on every seat.
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>> Spring 2010 is a party for Alber Elbaz: tables were erected in the middle of the runway pre-show, with bow-tied waiters offering up puff pastries and fruity frozen cocktails with umbrellas as salsa music played in the background.  Lanvin paper fans were placed on every seat.

With a neon chandelier as backdrop, Elbaz, who just recently returned from Argentina, served up jumpsuits and colorful pouf cocktail dresses — some accessorized with one glove.  The collection, Elbaz said, was crafted almost entirely from man-made fabrics, and called it a look of "new minimalism." The elborately bold jewelry will surely be clamored for.  As Style.com's Derek Blasberg put it, "If you judge a designer by the level of applause at his finale, Alber Elbaz is the best."

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Christian Dior Channels Film Noir for Spring 2010
Paris Fashion Week

Christian Dior Channels Film Noir for Spring 2010

>> A soundtrack of heavy breathing, a telephone ringing, a gun-shot, and then screaming ladies kicked off the film noir-themed Christian Dior show.  Silhouettes of gangsters holding machine guns were projected against a derelict warehouse set swirled with dry ice smoke as Karlie Kloss opened.
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>> A soundtrack of heavy breathing, a telephone ringing, a gun-shot, and then screaming ladies kicked off the film noir-themed Christian Dior show.  Silhouettes of gangsters holding machine guns were projected against a derelict warehouse set swirled with dry ice smoke as Karlie Kloss opened.

John Galliano told Hilary Alexander he was inspired by archive photographs of Lauren Bacall and Humphrey Bogary in the front row at Dior shows: “She was a regular client of M. Dior and I loved the idea of taking that 1940s Hollywood glamour and making it more contemporary. And I liked the idea of the link between film as an illusion and the illusion of undressed dresses.”

The models' hair was coiffed like Bacall's, the shoes still had platforms — estimated to be 7" high — and the peekaboo lingerie was actually built in to the dresses. Naomi Campbell was expected to attend, but never showed, and Tanya Dziahileva finally made her first appearance this season on the catwalk.  But the iconic moment, judging by Tweets, was John Galliano's finale strut down the runway in fedora and trench coat with metal collar, complete with dry ice and explosions.

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Rick Owens Sticks to Black, White, Gray, and Nude, But Brings Back Models of Color for Spring 2010
Paris Fashion Week

Rick Owens Sticks to Black, White, Gray, and Nude, But Brings Back Models of Color for Spring 2010

>> This evening at the Ecole Des Beaux Arts, Rick Owens had a bit of a seating situation, leaving a number of guests standing and unhappy.  One editor reportedly decided "standing is the new front row," and WWD later noted: "If you’ve outgrown your venue, move on.
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>> This evening at the Ecole Des Beaux Arts, Rick Owens had a bit of a seating situation, leaving a number of guests standing and unhappy.  One editor reportedly decided "standing is the new front row," and WWD later noted: "If you’ve outgrown your venue, move on. Otherwise, there’s no excuse for double-booking seat upon seat."

To a soundtrack of crashing waves and with Gareth Pugh front row (Owens attended Pugh's show yesterday), a stream of sculptural shoulderpieces, long loincloth-like skirts, slicked back hair (glue sticks were used to keep it in place) and crinkled metallic bubble dresses exited backstage. Suvi Koponen made her first appearance since her smattering of shows at New York Fashion Week, but most striking was Owens's sudden casting of models of color — Georgie Baddiel, Kinee Diouf, Aminata Niaria, and Rose Cordero all made appearances; his shows have been entirely whitewashed since the Spring 2005 season, when he also cast four black models.

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Louis Vuitton

>> Marc Jacobs May Be Married, Appearing on Reality TV Show; Louis Vuitton to Live Stream Show —Marc Jacobs and fiance Lorenzo Martone were planning on getting married in a very quiet ceremony at the end of August, but there was never any official confirmation.  It appears that it happened, though: Style.com's Derek Blasberg Tweeted a few days ago: "Going for a drink at the new Mrs. Martone-Jacobs' apartment, then OUT.
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>> Marc Jacobs May Be Married, Appearing on Reality TV Show; Louis Vuitton to Live Stream Show —Marc Jacobs and fiance Lorenzo Martone were planning on getting married in a very quiet ceremony at the end of August, but there was never any official confirmation.  It appears that it happened, though: Style.com's Derek Blasberg Tweeted a few days ago: "Going for a drink at the new Mrs. Martone-Jacobs' apartment, then OUT. The wife's away this weekend."  While we're on hearsay surrounding Jacobs, he has expressed interest in doing a reality TV show in the past and is rumored to be participating in an upcoming reality show dubbed Kept, pitched as a gay version of The Real Housewives franchise.  One fact to counteract all the rumors? His Spring 2010 Louis Vuitton show will stream live Wednesday at 2:30 PM Paris time from the brand's Facebook page. [@dizzyblazeberg, The Cut, Vogue UK]

Balmain Turns to Military Sauvage for Spring 2010
Oliver Peoples

Balmain Turns to Military Sauvage for Spring 2010

>> With Laduree macaroons catered backstage and Rihanna arriving half an hour late to sit front row, Daria Werbowy opened (and closed, and walked in the middle of) the Balmain show — her only show for the season — in the gilded, marbled ballroom of The Grand Hotel.
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>> With Laduree macaroons catered backstage and Rihanna arriving half an hour late to sit front row, Daria Werbowy opened (and closed, and walked in the middle of) the Balmain show — her only show for the season — in the gilded, marbled ballroom of The Grand Hotel.

Christophe Decarnin's strong shoulders and ripped jeans were still present, but gone were the '80s. This season, “it’s warrior women and the military, with a mix of different times and a touch of Mad Max," he told Suzy Menkes; stylist Emmanuelle Alt's personal style was prevalent as ever, particularly in the pants-and-jackets combinations.

Since Decarnin took over at Balmain in 2006, the brand's ready-to-wear sales have double each season, according to CEO Alain Hivelin, and next season brings an eyewear collection with Oliver Peoples.  The brand's much-buzzed-about $2,000 jeans are priced as such because, Hivelin says, certain pieces receive hundreds of hours of embroidery or have been reworked up to 50 times before they hit retail.  But here's irony for you: Decarnin picks up his own wardrobe at army surplus stores.

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Paris Fashion Week

>> Richard Nicoll Designing Cerruti?
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>> Richard Nicoll Designing Cerruti? —Italian heritage label Cerruti promised it would disclose the name of its new womenswear designer, succeeding Jean Paul Knott after his 18 month stint, in September.  Although there hasn't been an official announcement, word from JC Report is it's London designer Richard Nicoll who's quietly taken over and is showing in Paris, although WWD has the Spring 2010 collection up and credits "Cerruti's design team" with the work. [JC Report Twitter, WWD]

UPDATE: Nicoll confirms that he has signed on to Cerruti for three seasons, his first runway show for the brand will be in Paris for Fall 2010. [WWD]

Balenciaga Aims to Go Thorougly Modern for Spring 2010
Balenciaga

Balenciaga Aims to Go Thorougly Modern for Spring 2010

>> For the second season in a row, Balenciaga showed at the Hotel Crillon — word is residents forced them to move from their previous location — and Nicolas Ghesquiere took his eye "back to the start again," as the show's soundtrack went, returning to his sporty, skinny pants roots.  The leggings, vests, and dresses were collages of contrasting materials — "like toys," the designer noted — and his goal was to create an entirely modern collection, sans references to the past.
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>> For the second season in a row, Balenciaga showed at the Hotel Crillon — word is residents forced them to move from their previous location — and Nicolas Ghesquiere took his eye "back to the start again," as the show's soundtrack went, returning to his sporty, skinny pants roots.  The leggings, vests, and dresses were collages of contrasting materials — "like toys," the designer noted — and his goal was to create an entirely modern collection, sans references to the past.

In his effort to think differently, Ghesquiere told the Wall Street Journal, he mused: “There are cocktail dresses everywhere. I am asking, who are these women who go to cocktails all the time?’’  He also had his runway shoe samples made it a number of different sizes (39-41) rather than the standard 39, to help prevent runway stumbles.

Anouck Lepere and Lily Cole were both front row this morning, but the big model surprise was Victoria's Secret Angel Miranda Kerr, who some see as Balenciaga's answer to Givenchy casting Adriana Lima last season.

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Christian Lacroix Sits Out Paris Fashion Week, But May Be Bought by Emirati Sheikh
Paris Fashion Week

Christian Lacroix Sits Out Paris Fashion Week, But May Be Bought by Emirati Sheikh

>> Paris is minus a Christian Lacroix fashion show this time around — according to his team, this is the first time he hasn't even made a collection — but he may get one good thing out of this Fashion Week: a buyer.Previous frontrunner Borletti, who was working with Lacroix on a bid, has dropped out because “the conditions for confirming this takeover were not brought together."
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>> Paris is minus a Christian Lacroix fashion show this time around — according to his team, this is the first time he hasn't even made a collection — but he may get one good thing out of this Fashion Week: a buyer.

Previous frontrunner Borletti, who was working with Lacroix on a bid, has dropped out because “the conditions for confirming this takeover were not brought together." Now, all eyes are on Sheikh Al Hassan bin Ali Al-Nuami, a nephew of the ruler of the emirate of Ajman, whose offer was deemed "overall very satisfactory" by Lacroix's administrator — he hopes to inject €70 million ($102 million) into the brand and keep all the company’s employees. Lacroix was involved in the talks with the sheikh; the offer involves keeping both ready-to-wear and couture businesses and will be formalized in the next 48 hours.

Yesterday was the deadline for the administrator to receive offers on the house.

Paris Fashion Week

>> Jessica Stam Sits Out Paris Fashion Week Sick, Tanya Dziahileva To Finally Walk This Season —Toni Garrn made her first catwalk appearance this season today at Gareth Pugh, but we're still missing a number of models usually on the circuit: Catherine McNeil, Raquel Zimmermann, Sigrid Agren, Anna Maria Jagodzinska, and Tanya Dziahileva among them.  Word is it's possible some may be hitting the Paris catwalks, but it looks like a Tanya appearance is most likely out of the bunch.  Don't expect to see Jessica Stam, though, who's been going light this season as is: She's been sick for the past few days and decided to head back to New York.
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>> Jessica Stam Sits Out Paris Fashion Week Sick, Tanya Dziahileva To Finally Walk This Season —Toni Garrn made her first catwalk appearance this season today at Gareth Pugh, but we're still missing a number of models usually on the circuit: Catherine McNeil, Raquel Zimmermann, Sigrid Agren, Anna Maria Jagodzinska, and Tanya Dziahileva among them.  Word is it's possible some may be hitting the Paris catwalks, but it looks like a Tanya appearance is most likely out of the bunch.  Don't expect to see Jessica Stam, though, who's been going light this season as is: She's been sick for the past few days and decided to head back to New York. [Fashin, Jess Stam Twitter, Jess Stam Twitter, Jess Stam Twitter]

Marco Zanini Takes Second Rochas Collection to Runway for Spring 2010
Paris Fashion Week

Marco Zanini Takes Second Rochas Collection to Runway for Spring 2010

>> Marco Zanini's new, more commercial interpretation at Rochas was so well-received last season, he kicked off Paris Fashion Week this morning, taking his designs to the runway for the first time under the label.  Anna Wintour was front row for the '40s-inspired collection with below-the-knee hemlines: Zanini said he wanted to get away from classic Parisian fashion, and instead imagined "a young woman going to a boarding school in Saigon."
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>> Marco Zanini's new, more commercial interpretation at Rochas was so well-received last season, he kicked off Paris Fashion Week this morning, taking his designs to the runway for the first time under the label.  Anna Wintour was front row for the '40s-inspired collection with below-the-knee hemlines: Zanini said he wanted to get away from classic Parisian fashion, and instead imagined "a young woman going to a boarding school in Saigon."

The reception seems to be positive, if a bit unenthused. T's Anne Christensen deemed it "not what I expected but nice"; the AP concluded that Zanini made "a strong case for [Rochas's] resurrection"; Cathy Horyn called it "interesting, unhurried . . . I sensed [Zanini] was doing his version of French sportswear, perhaps inspired by the Rochas legacy"; and WWD noted that the collection had similarities to Dries van Noten's work, but "Zanini seems to have plenty of ideas and enough technical skill to put Rochas somewhere on the map."

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