Aurelio Costarella Spring 2009 collection at Mao Pr.
New York designers Phillipe and David Blond might not make the kind of clothing that everyone can wear, in fact, their designs are special order and one-of-a-kind, but their show is an unmissable part of New York Fashion Week nonetheless. Honestly, it's like a concert. Above, a few snapshots we took while we were In The Showroom and a few taken by one of our fashion week photographers, Justin William Lin, straight from the Spring 09 runway. There's nothing like The Blonds to wake you up on a Monday!
Earlier this week we checked out Pudel, a brand owned and designed by Lina Osterman, and, as it turns out, we also saw her namesake line which she started in order to design more editorial-friendly, fashion forward pieces. The Lina Osterman line, much like Pudel, is full of gothic-inspired, complicated cottons that have a downtown persona. The Lina Osterman versions, however, have more attitude to them and veer into Rick Owens-like terrain. For Spring 2009 she designed shredded stovepipe jeans, knit cardigans that hang down below the waist, and a heavy chain chest piece that calls up Givenchy Fall 08 in its sheer mass. Today's designers seem to thrive best when they have both accessible and high fashion options for their consumer--no matter in which order these options are borne.
There is the kind of designer who shows a reinvented version of their brand every season, complete with a succinct conceptual inspiration and runway show, and then there is the kind of designer who doesn't show during Fashion Week and who, because of that, can whip a collection with clothing of all varieties to suit the needs of their buyers and showroom reps. Charles Chang-Lima is of the latter group and we have to say, it kind of makes sense. His Spring 09 collection was a kaleidoscope of colors and showed pieces that ranged from rocker-chic to daytime ladylike. There was a focus on fabric manipulation (the braided bodices were our favorite example) and on slinky silhouettes but, overall, there was something for everyone.
Earlier this week at Mao Pr we checked out the Aurelio Costarella Spring 2009 collection as part of our In The Showroom press preview series. Costarella, as was explained to us in the preview, did sequins before they were a 'thing' and so we saw two shining examples of his skill in this area. Forget thoughtless costumery, these frocks were adorned with sequins of different sizes, shapes, and colors creating a fabric of their own and making those high street versions feel way off the mark in comparison. Otherwise, Costarella kept with super-tailored but still feminine coats and cocktail dresses and added in some brilliant marker-color separates that gave life to his new collection. Check out our photos from the showroom below, and, his entire Spring 2009 collection on the runway right here.
Harlan Bel had us at hello with her silk one-pocket crop tops and cage-like pullover accessories (left)--when we saw them in the showroom in suede and leather, we nearly started jumping up and down. The brand's designer, Brandy Lunsford, has been wowing editors and buyers with such things since she started her line just a few seasons back. Mixing sex appeal and femininity with architectural sensibilities it's hard to turn away from her designs. These are the basic elements of modern dressing--plain and simple. Check out our snapshots from the showroom below, our coverage of the collection at Coterie (yes, we are that enthused by her) here, and her proper Spring 2009 runway show, shot by photographer Jonathan Melamed, here.
We thought the Spring 09 Chris Han collection was gorgeous in every way but it was the tie dye pieces that really made us drool. Light as air but still moody and ethereal (true to Han's aesthetic) these pieces were what we gravitated towards today in the showroom. To see the entire Chris Han Spring 09 collection, click here.