So it seems our British friends have taken A/W 08 in an entirely different direction. That is, the fur and sparkle of New York's A/W 08, not to mention the deep plums and vibrant greens are virtually non-existent. London Fashion Week, thus far has been a little more Terminator, a little less Kindergarden Cop. Just take a peek at our photo galleries from Topshop Unique, Jacob Kimmie,
Krystof Strozyna, and Modernist Autumn, it's virtually another fashion world. All of these collections dominated by black and white, most with eruptions of red in the most brazen display (it's not worked in slowly, it's thrust into the collection and promptly removed). Sure, you could call upon Paul Smith from the Londoners, and
Camilla Staerk from the New Yorkers to argue that there is crossover. To which we'd say: "Despite some dandy-embellishments, Paul Smith is no different than Ralph Lauren, and Camilla Staerk is a newcomer. Those are bad examples.". So we win. And boy, do we love the fight.
Perhaps our beloved designers didn't venture too far down the aisle at Mood this year. It seems the S/S 08 lilac craze has morphed into plum for A/W 08. Here are just a few of many looks that include some shade of plum, which we know will look quite sharp with red lipstick, pale skin, and dark wool layers.
Another backstage, another MAC team (though some familiar faces from Bill Blass. MAC travels fast.), another set of models waiting for their 15 minute show to begin. If the Kai Kuhne collection is any bit as interesting as its hair styling, we think it should be a dramatic show. Black pipe cleaners weave around the front of faces before hair is sprayed and then set 1940's style. In the end, blacked out eyes peek out from perfectly coiffed bangs. The loft is calm and cold, a cloudy river view shooting grey light throughout the space. The girls are getting dressed and we're off to the pit to shoot the show.
We just finished up a little backstage time with the MAC team. The look for the Bill Blass A/W 08 show conjures that ever-popular 'rock chick' vibe. Naturally, that means a lot of liner and mascara (fake eyelashes to be exact) a deep plum eye and orange-leaning blush high on the cheekbone. As with most strong eye-looks, the MAC team is keeping it simple with basic nude lipstick. Everyone, including the models, seem a bit tired on the second to last day of fashion week. Thankfully, we have Peter Som for Bill Blass to look forward to, expect an edge that just might get you through the next two days.
Whoever said fashion had a conscious must have been reading the post-Inconvenient Truth press release from A/W 07. For A/W 08, however, the act has been dropped and fur, the most sinful of fashion's fabrics, has taken over Manhattan. It's abundance signals a sense of luxury taking the mood for A/W 08 and we suspect this pill won't be an easy one to swallow for those who favor conscious garments to glamorous ones.
Pop colors are abundant these days. We all know that. You start with the neutrals and then pick a few complimentary brights to serve as lining, piping, and the like. The Behnaz Sarafpour A/W 08 collection was the perfect example. Deep plums and acid green's jumped off garments while the blacks served to classify the bright color. Two amazing flapper-like dresses turned up solid, showing off Sarafpour's knowledge of texture (the dresses moved like sea anemones) and confidence in the two hues that only appear in glimpses elsewhere.
If you're a Karen Walker fan, you're probably keen on the makeup for this season's A/W 08 runway show. We spoke with the MAC team about the quintessential Walker look, where sweet pinks and nude coverage embody that cool downtown vibe. After all, Walker girls aren't really the sort to cake on the face lacquer, nor fuss with touch-ups. If you seek guidance, check out our video from backstage where MAC walks us through the look.
Last night we went to the Opening Ceremony party at Webster Hall, thrown to celebrate Chloe Sevigny's line for the store. Three short guys let people in Studio 54-style by pointing to the pretty folk who messed up their hair or put on their lensless Raybans for the occasion. There was a gentleman with a clipboard, but we'll be damned if he checked in every Seymore and Esther in the lot. It was handsome, there were stairwell debaucheries, as with any party, people walked around and looked at each other. Some people, like us, took pictures of each other.