>> Classic '60s couture silhouettes, military details, and a rich compilation of fabrics defined Julie de Libran's Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall offering. "It's good to have all the beauty," de Libran — who helms the house's Pre-Fall and Resort collections— said of the collection's more extravagant details, "but you have to be able to wear the clothes. After all, that's what we're all here for, no?" And so, among all the fur and sequins, de Libran offered plenty that was wearable: a streamlined shorts suit, motorcycle jackets in wool and leather, round-shouldered coats, and several sweet little frocks.
>> The bags Sofia Coppola did in collaboration with Louis Vuitton in 2008 have attained a cult following, and the brand's Resort 2012 collection, of which she consulted on all aspects, is sure to, as well. But would Coppola ever consider doing a fashion line on her own? “No, no,” she replied. “I really respect and love working with Julie [de Libran, Vuitton's studio design director] and the whole team because they are so knowledgeable. I don’t have the patience and the years you would need to really study and learn about all of this. It’s like doing a film when I work with experts in each field, the cinematographer, the costume designer. They all have the knowledge about that and then I can just say what I have in mind.” [WWD]
>> Sofia Coppola has collaborated with Louis Vuitton on a capsule collection of shoes and bags in the past, but for the brand's Resort 2012 collection, her sphere of influence was taken a bit further. Coppola chose the venue for the presentation — the Pool Room of the Four Seasons Hotel in New York — and served as "official muse" for the collection — which was based on her personal style — consulting on all areas of design.
“Oh my God, for me it’s really fun,” Coppola said. “I’m happy to give my opinion of, I wish I could have this or that.” The collection's Eiffel Tower print, for instance, is a nod to her current hometown of Paris. "I told [Vuitton design director Julie De Libran] I want a new wardrobe,” Coppola added — and thus, the collection is based on her favorite shapes, including a denim tunic dress.
>> Pre-Fall is the collection that Marc Jacobs steps back from and lets Louis Vuitton design director Julie de Libran drive, so what did she turn out? A polished Pre-Fall 2011 collection, originating with her recent trip to Venice to view the “Louise Bourgeois: The Fabric Works” exhibition, and resulting in what de Libran called a "liberated wardrobe for a woman who goes out to conquer the world." It's far from the campy Spring 2011 collection Jacobs turned out for Vuitton, but since when does Vuitton strike a note for more than one season, anyway?
Marc Jacobs Doesn't Design Louis Vuitton Cruise, But Encourages Leaning Out of Buildings in His Fall 2009 Ads
>> The Louis Vuitton Cruise 2010 we saw last week was the work of new Vuitton design director Julie de Libran, who has taken Peter Copping's place now that he's heading up Nina Ricci; apparently for some time now, Marc Jacobs has entrusted Resort designing to one of his lieutenants.
Meanwhile, the Fall 2009 ads for his namesake label are starting to appear; one with Natasa Vojnovic leaning out of a building precariously, and another a collage of portraits of Natasa, Ajuma Nasenyana, and Kamila Filipcikova. Irina Kulikova and Olga Sherer are also supposed to appear in the Juergen Teller-lensed set.