Harold Tillman

>> The 161-year-old label Aquascutum entered administration, the British equivalent of Chapter 11 bankruptcy, on Tuesday.

In a statement, Aquascutum executives attributed the company's precarious financial situation to "challenging conditions in the UK," which has "unfortunately meant that the team have been unable to successfully turn the business around."

The company is now in the hands of FRP Advisory, a British restructuring firm. Geoff Rowley, who is leading the administration efforts, says he hopes he can keep the company's doors open.

"We are conscious of the value of the Aquascutum brand and its long-standing heritage and because of this are keen to enter into early discussions with interested parties open to purchasing the business as soon as possible," Rowley said.

Aquascutum lost over $38 million in 2008, and British Fashion Council chairman Harold Tillman bought the struggling brand in 2009 for an undisclosed price. He appointed Belinda Earl as its CEO and hired designer Joanna Sykes as creative director in May 2010. Sykes's work for the brand was well-received, but didn't translate to the turnaround Aquascutum needed.

If the company can't be saved, the 250 people who work for it will be out of work.

Update: Aquascutum announced on Thursday, April 19 that it will shut down its UK manufacturing plant in Corby, Northamptonshire, due to "loss-making operations and a lack of funding." The factory employed 115 people, all of whom the company says will get help finding new jobs.

"Whilst a difficult decision, it has been necessary in order to stem on-going losses for the business, and to protect the positions of the 135 remaining employees," a spokesperson said. "We plan to provide appropriate assistance to all affected employees . . . All head office and retail operations across the UK and international high street, concession and outlet stores are operating as usual at present."

Photo: The finale of Aquascutum's Fall 2012 runway show.

>> After turning in a well-received Fall 2010 collection — Style.com thought the designs "marked a pivotal moment" between Aquascutum's heritage and modern design sensibility — womenswear designer Michael Herz and his menswear counterpart Graeme Fidler have handed in their resignations, Aquascutum confirmed.

The designers, who have been at the company since 2002 and 2000, respectively, have endured a rollercoaster of management changes — most recently, last Fall, when Aquascutum was purchased by BFC and Jaeger chairman Harold Tillman and chief executive Belinda Earl.  WWD reports an industry source saying that both designers are angling to move on to new projects. "They've had a great time at the brand, but they want to move on, and we fully understand that," said Earl. "We wish them well, and the situation is amicable."

As for their replacements . . . »

>> BFC, Vogue UK Start Fashion Fund —Two weeks before this year's CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winners are announced in New York, London has decided to get in on the fun.  The British Fashion Council and British Vogue have teamed up for the new BFC Vogue Design Fashion Fund, which will provide one British-based designer with £200,000 (approx. $328,000) and a year's worth of mentoring support, much like its American counterpart. The inaugural winner and finalists will be announced next April, with Alexandra Shulman chairing the judging panel. [WWD, Telegraph UK]

>> Matthew Williamson and Burberry are both returning to London Fashion Week for its 25th anniversary during the Spring 2010 season, and now Pringle of Scotland is, too.  It's all part of the plan that Harold Tillman, chairman of the British Fashion Council, has actuated to create more buzz around London's Fashion Week, and he's not planning on stopping with just those three: “There are talks going on with other big names who we’re confident will come back. I want us to be the number-one destination for international press and buyers.”

Does that mean we could see Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, or Gareth Pugh back in London — or maybe all three?  The hopes are that all the returners will bring the international press — including Anna Wintour, who usually sits out LFW — back to London with them.  And the efforts might be working: Matthew Williamson's spokeswoman hinted that the designer is considering staying in London after September: “I think that the way the British Fashion Council is reworking LFW will see lots of people coming back. London has been pigeonholed as being about new, young designers and people don’t attend because they wait to see how these designers will develop. The return of some established brands will change that perception.”

>> Although London Fashion Week is at risk of being squeezed out by New York and Milan next season — Diane von Furstenberg is in town to discuss the matter — Harold Tillman, chairmain of the British Fashion Council, had a more positive announcement to make last night.

Britain's largest-ever emerging talent fashion fund — modeled after the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund — is being launched, with backing from Topshop owner Sir Philip Green and Erin O'Connor, who is vice-chairman of London Fashion Week.  The first awards will be given out next year — and considering the forward-thinking talent pool that comes out of London, I can't wait.
*image: source

>> This is a snub, if I ever heard of one.  For the Fall 2009 season, the CFDA has announced that New York Fashion Week will run from February 13-20, rather than February 6-13, as it has in the past.  The reason for the switch?  The designers don't want to have to show on Labor Day, September 1, for the Spring 2010 season, and they want the reorganizing to start ASAP. 

But herein lies the problem: With the February date change, New York Fashion Week will still be going on when London Fashion Week was scheduled to take place.  The British Fashion Council's chairman, Harold Tillman, flew to New York last week to talk with CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg about the issue, but as it lays right now, London Fashion Week only has four full days to show — February 21-24 — before Milan Fashion Week starts, not to mention little-to-no travel time for editors, buyers, and the like to be transported between the places.  Drama, drama.
*images: source