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Fall 2010 Milan Fashion Week

Raf Simons Digs Up '90s Plaids, Sets to Sci Fi Soundtrack for Jil Sander Fall 2010
Milan Fashion Week

Raf Simons Digs Up '90s Plaids, Sets to Sci Fi Soundtrack for Jil Sander Fall 2010

>> The sounds of bombs dropping, bullets whizzing, and quotes from Lara Croft: Tomb Raider ("You don't think I'd go vaulting into thin air for nothing, do you?") punctuated the sci fi sountrack at Jil Sander today, with models criss-crossing the X-shaped runway in knit rompers and sharply tailored jumpsuits.
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>> The sounds of bombs dropping, bullets whizzing, and quotes from Lara Croft: Tomb Raider ("You don't think I'd go vaulting into thin air for nothing, do you?") punctuated the sci fi sountrack at Jil Sander today, with models criss-crossing the X-shaped runway in knit rompers and sharply tailored jumpsuits.  Every single one tromped around in black mid-calf flat boots, while sheer panels stretched down from their tweedy jackets and short slashes revealed themselves in an otherwise buttoned-up collection.

Raf Simons seems to have joined Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada in going archival this season — he pulled out the plaids that Jil Sander first used during the early '90s.  Another change for the designer: casting models of color — Joan Smalls, Rose Cordero, Sun Feifei, and Mengyao Ming Xi all populated the runway today. Brazilian sensation Alicia Kuczman, meanwhile, scored the exclusive.

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Miuccia Prada Flies Victoria's Secret Models in for Demure Fall 2010 Prada Show
Prada

Miuccia Prada Flies Victoria's Secret Models in for Demure Fall 2010 Prada Show

>> A casting surprise was promised, and Miuccia Prada delivered: Victoria's Secret regulars like Doutzen Kroes, Alessandra Ambrosio, Miranda Kerr, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, and Bianca Balti all walked the labyrinthine runway — perhaps as a one-up to Givenchy, who cast Adriana Lima, and Balenciaga, who cast Kerr, in recent seasons.
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>> A casting surprise was promised, and Miuccia Prada delivered: Victoria's Secret regulars like Doutzen Kroes, Alessandra Ambrosio, Miranda Kerr, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, and Bianca Balti all walked the labyrinthine runway — perhaps as a one-up to Givenchy, who cast Adriana Lima, and Balenciaga, who cast Kerr, in recent seasons.  Also populating the Fall 2010 Prada cast: Lara Stone, Catherine McNeil in her first runway turn since a year ago, Mariacarla Boscono, Rose Cordero, and opener and closer Samantha Gradoville.

The show was preceded by cartoons portraying feminine cliches like "He loves me, he loves me not" while front rowers complained about the anchovy canapes handed out, but once the show started, it was all beehive hairdos, cat-eye librarian glasses, and A-line skirts in muted tones and vinyl-like finishes.  Busts were enhanced with rows of ruffles and strategically placed darts, while knee-high pleated socks were finished off with pointy-toed patent pumps.  A slow jazz soundtrack played, and the whole look — cable knit sweaters, sketchy plaid — earned a chorus of Mad Men comparisons. Apparently, when asked backstage, however, Miuccia said she had never seen the TV show.  A video of the Prada show can be seen here.

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Prada

>> Prada Cast Tomorrow to Reportedly "Surprise" — With London Fashion Week winding down, Milan really kicks off tomorrow with the likes of Fendi and Prada.
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>> Prada Cast Tomorrow to Reportedly "Surprise" — With London Fashion Week winding down, Milan really kicks off tomorrow with the likes of Fendi and Prada.  The latter, whose model cast is always closely watched, is rumored to be worth keeping an eye on again this season: "Just when you thought Prada had no more surprises left...this line up will shake the earth with surprise.." Adds a commenter in response: "I can confirm that this is true...to a degree . . . it all depends on what your hopes are. there will be same-old but also surprises."  The show will be livestreamed on Prada.com. [@ChrisINTERVIEWS, Fashin, Fashin, Prada]

UPDATE: More hints: "what do the current issue of LOVE and this seasons casting for Prada have in Common? I'm biting my tongue so hard it hurts." And "Madame Prada's avant-garde house is feeling the presence of a few rather...uhm... angelic beauties to twist up the cabine this season . . . Prada faves are being unconfirmed by the gaggle . . . Peeps are saying it's the house's answer to the CFDA's size and age question." [@ChrisINTERVIEWS, The Imagist]

UPDATE #2: Seems the Victoria's Secret Angels are the prime candidates: Alessandra Ambrosio, Doutzen Kroes, and Miranda Kerr are all currently in Milan. [Fashin, @MissDK]

Anna Wintour Caused a Scheduling Ruckus for Milan Fashion Week
Prada

Anna Wintour Caused a Scheduling Ruckus for Milan Fashion Week

>> Milan Fashion Week, which was officially scheduled to run Feb.
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>> Milan Fashion Week, which was officially scheduled to run Feb. 24 to March 1 this year, was almost compressed into three days after Italian fashion houses scrambled to coincide with Anna Wintour's schedule. "Anna Wintour, the woman who holds Italian fashion in the palm of her hand," read the headline of Italian newspaper Corriere della Sera.

Wintour will only be in Milan from Feb. 26 through 28 (reportedly because she's going to France for Paris Fashion Week and then flying to Los Angeles for the Oscars on March 7). "She wants designers to schedule their shows during these three days," Mario Boselli, president of the Italian Fashion Chamber, told the Telegraph UK. "She's welcome in Milan but if she only comes for a fleeting visit, perhaps it would be better is she stayed at home."

Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Fendi, and Giorgio Armani, who were all schedule to show at the end of Fashion Week wanted to changed dates, according to Boselli.  But this morning, WWD reported that Prada, which was originally scheduled for Feb. 26, and Fendi, which was originally showing on Feb. 27, each opted to show on Feb. 25 instead.

Alessandro Dell'Acqua Back on Milan Fashion Week Scene with N° 21
Milan Fashion Week

Alessandro Dell'Acqua Back on Milan Fashion Week Scene with N° 21

>> After losing trademark rights to his name last June when he publicly sounded off against the label's owners, Alessandro Dell'Acqua is making a return to fashion with a new collection, dubbed N° 21.  The name comes from the designer's birthday on Dec.
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>> After losing trademark rights to his name last June when he publicly sounded off against the label's owners, Alessandro Dell'Acqua is making a return to fashion with a new collection, dubbed N° 21.  The name comes from the designer's birthday on Dec. 21, and it's also his lucky number.

Dell'Acqua is taking advantage of the opportunity to start with a clean slate.  He told WWD: “I looked back at what I did in the past and decided to put the focus on wearable, every day clothes more than on eveningwear."

The first 80-piece collection, which spans dresses to knitwear to outerwear, will debut at the upcoming Fall 2010 Milan Fashion Week with a small runway show.