>> Peter Dundas's debut Fall 2009 collection at Pucci was generally well-received — Carine Roitfeld and Lily Cole both ended up wearing dresses from the collection on the Cannes Film Festival red carpet — and notably took the house beyond its print heritage; the Cruise 2010 collection looks to do the same. Dundas said he was inspired by the sea, sailors, and the sun; Perhaps we owe the influence to a recent scuba diving excursion? Dundas told Style.com that his motto is: "I dive where I go on holiday, and I go on holiday where I can dive," and that "diving definitely makes me look at color differently."
>> Just last week, Roksanda Illincic signed on with British fast fashion chain Whistles (whose chief executive Jane Shepherdson, is credited with transforming Topshop into a place for the style savvy) to do a set of seven cocktail dresses to hit stores in early September. If her Cruise 2010 collection is any indication of what that collaboration will turn out like, expect shift dresses with shoulder pads, sculptural bows, and layers of ruffles: "I was inspired by the idea of transforming cocktail and evening dresses into something more approachable in terms of fabric," the designer explained.
>> Proenza Schouler spent yesterday in Florence debuting their Cruise 2010 collection with the help of three artists: Kalup Linzy, whose video with Liya Kebede and Chloe Sevigny we saw yesterday — he also photographed himself, Liya, and Chloe in Renaissance-style pictures that were on display, one with Liya as Mona Lisa; Haim Steinbach, who creates spatial collages using found objects, was asked to focus on the resort accessories and placed them on a span of white carpet in the Medici villa courtyard along with a bed frame, dog toys, and plastic onions; and performance artist Kembra Pfahler, who with 20 local Italian women donned Proenza Schouler bodysuits, body paint, and sang with her glam rock band The Voluptuous Horror of Karen Black.
“For Pitti W, we knew wanted an old-school, iconic artist like Haim, someone very contemporary like Kalup, and with Kembra we had so much in common,” Lazaro Hernandez told Vogue. “She connected with this idea of surf culture, as she is from Malibu, which is where we found a lot of inspiration for the collection.”
Proenza Schouler Debuts Guest Edit of A Magazine, Short Film with Kalup Linzy, and Cruise 2010 Collection All in a Week
>> This has been a week of firsts for Proenza Schouler. They took home their first CFDA Accessory Designer of the Year award Monday, after which Jack McCollough was snapped licking Thakoon Panichgul; Lazaro Hernandez later quipped, "Yeah, we started the week off with a hangover, bad idea, and kind of throws off the whole thing!" With A Magazine #9, out this week with Chloe Sevigny on the cover, they become the first American designer guest editors — Lazaro even photographed the Swarovski campaign inside.
And today, they present their first collection abroad in Florence — complete with performance artist Kalup Linzy's short film starring Chloe Sevigny and Liya Kebede (see here), because they felt they "needed to up the ante." The Cruise 2010 collection includes bags with leather treated to look like herringbone canvas and was inspired by their recent trip to Tahiti: "When we finish a show we go away, and that trip usually winds up being the spark for the next season. Not directly — I think we try to avoid the places where the inspiration would be too on-the-surface, in fact." They say they're staying to work in Italy, and then coming back to get ready for Spring 2010, so maybe some Italian influence will shine through next time around?
>> INSIDER WIRE —Don't expect Gucci or Versace to go for a major resort runway production, a la Chanel. Frida Giannini admits: "Although I have shown the Cruise collection on the runway on a couple of special occasions in the past, I feel that these pre-collections for both men and women, which are ultimately more commercially driven, are more appropriately presented to buyers and press in the showroom." And Donatella Versace agrees: "[Resort is] a commercial collection and having a full blown runway show can be confusing as it ruins the ‘commercialized’ moment." But Donatella is considering switching her runway shows up: “I’ve been thinking about doing a virtual runway show for over a year — we need to find a new formula.” [NYTimes]
Riccardo Tisci Doesn't Mind Michael Jackson Wearing Givenchy, Designs More Studded Garments for Cruise 2010
>> Turns out that Riccardo Tisci is tickled that Michael Jackson has been snapped wearing one of his studded Givenchy jackets — and the studs aren't going away anytime soon. The designer launched a mini-collection within his Cruise 2010 collection solely devoted to black pieces embellished with gold studs, and another mini-collection focusing on white blouses. But if you want a hint at what Riccardo will do with Givenchy for Spring 2010, check out the tailored, white stretch pieces.
>> Alber Elbaz arrived in New York on Saturday to present Lanvin's Cruise 2010 collection, which is in categories based on needs — “men’s tailoring for women, capsules for traveling and weekend” — this morning. Another one of the needs the collection addresses? How to offer special clothes without the high price tags — hence the inclusion of tees starting at $119 and cotton dresses at $450. Alber said before that part of the collection was inspired by Damages; today he added Samantha Ronson to the list of influence.
Bazaar's Glenda Bailey brought temporary intern Tallulah Willis, who hugged the designer, to the presentation, and Alber chatted about how he worked through his recent birthday and is looking forward to a vacation: “I’m still trying to find that perfect spot. It used to be Asia. But now I’m looking all over Europe. But once you find a location, you can’t find a nice home. And once you find a nice home, you don’t like the interiors. You see, we’re very picky in this fashion industry.”
>> Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen have done viral online video campaigns and asked Lauren Hutton to model The Row for a lookbook, but for their Cruise/Pre-Spring 2010 collection, they and brand consultant (and T staffer) Alex Hawgood asked for a strong black woman. Alek Wek's niece, Ataui Deng, was cast and photographed in the label's newest luxury basics by Daniel King.
>> Hannah MacGibbon has received mixed reviews for her past Chloe collections — even drawing inspiration from her own closet for her predominantly earth-toned pieces — but she has at least one fan in Chloe Sevigny, who met MacGibbon back when she was working for Phoebe Philo, and has been spotted frequently in a scalloped Chloe blazer: "I am so glad Hannah is back. I think Chloé was missing a feminine touch, and with my body it's hard to do the tomboy thing. I feel more comfortable dressing like a woman." Ironically, pictures from Hannah's Cruise 2010 collection for Chloe and Phoebe's collection for Celine showed up on the same day; the former continues along the same lines as her work in the past, riding the masculine-feminine line with a little shock of poppy red.