At the Centre For Fashion Enterprise pop-up showroom we caught up with American born designer Natascha Stolle. This season Stolle continued her exploration of adolescence, which is a signature theme in her work, by positioning body-con silhouettes on top of over-sized jersey dresses. She also once again mastered the art of making jersey look office-appropriate, with a series of extra-large turtlenecks that appeared at once comforting and fashion-forward. Check out our snapshots from the showroom along with a few runway examples in the gallery below.
Aminaka Wilmont's sculptural leather jackets and 2007 Fashion Fringe Award are what put the brand on the map, and now they're full steam ahead. This Fall 2009 Maki Aminaka Lofvander and Marcus Wilmont worked with "the perception of time" as inspiration, leading them to use colorful graphic prints, transparent fabrics and extra-long beaded accessories. Of course their signature leather pieces were also present and came in the form of strong-shouldered jackets, vests and thigh-high leggings. Check out images from the collection in the gallery below.
Undeniably connected to the season prior but still its own collection, Fall 2009 for Peter Pilotto was about looking closely at nature and the microscopic. This time around the editorial pieces--those completely covered in beading--were actually detachable from the dresses so that customers could buy the bolero, the frock, or both if they wanted. Otherwise, the design duo collaborated with Linda Farrow for sunglasses, Scott Wilson for jewelry, and Jerome C. Rousseau for shoes. Check out a few of our snapshots of the collection along with stills from the runway below.
Now in their fourth season since graduating from Central St Martins, the twin sis duo behind Felder Felder have nearly perfected that irresistible balance between hard and soft fashion elements. This season there was punk-chic metal embroidery and voluptuous Mongolian lambs wool, there were body-hugging leather pieces and pops of cobalt and tangerine to liven things up. If the archetypal concept of "cool girl" dressing involves a cocktail dress with a little leather jacket thrown over-top, then think of Felder Felder as modern interpreters of that look. In the gallery below, check out our snapshots from the showroom along with runway images from the Felder Felder show in Berlin.
Last week, at the Centre For Fashion Enterprise pop-up showroom, we had the pleasure of meeting Richard Nicoll, maker of our favorite Topshop frock and all-around star designer. After a break-out MA collection at Central St Martins in 2002, Nicoll went on to show as part of the Fashion East gang and then, later, was backed by Topshop's New Gen program. More recently, Nicoll won the ANDAM prize as well as the British Fashion Council's Fashion Forward Award. Needless to say, he's faring quite well. Nicoll's standout Fall 2009 collection started by way of a print collaboration with the British artist Linder and explored deconstruction and femininity themes. Check out our snapshots from the showroom along with runway images below.
Present at the Centre For Fashion Enterprise pop-up showroom were the Meadham Kirchhoff Fall 2009 collection and one of its two designers, Benjamin Kirchhoff. Having had the chance to speak with Kirchhoff about the collection, we can see why this brand is quickly becoming a favorite among fashion editors. Take the Fall 2009 concept for example, it deals with the boundaries between luxury and filth, desire and necessity--a discourse unending in the fashion world. Not only did we find Kirchoff's concept relevant but the clothes themselves--stand-out little jackets, slim trousers, one fantastic taupe Rodarte-like bondage dress--were also all desirable in their own right. Check out a few of our snapshots from the showroom along with the Fall 2009 runway images, below.
Despite being known for her fierce, no-nonsense design aesthetic, British designer Hannah Marshall couldn't have been sweeter or more accommodating when we met her at the Centre For Fashion Enterprise pop-up showroom. This Fall, Marshall confidently stood behind the return of the strong shoulder and created a collection based on the concept of body armor--that which both protects and gives strength to the wearer. Some pieces could take the expression 'second skin' and, although the collection is shown in black, many looks will also retail in steel grey or midnight ink as well. Check out Marshall's Fall 2009 look book images along with a few of our snapshots from the showroom below.
Yesterday, at the Centre For Fashion Enterprise pop-up showroom, we had the chance to meet designer Jean-Pierre Braganza and hear him speak about his Fall 2009 collection. This season, Braganza was informed by two distinct inspirations: Native American imagery and futuristic, sculptural tailoring. Overall, the collection communicated a sense of the exoskeletal, from the paneled dresses "that seem to grow over the body like petals or scales" to the prints comprised of digitally manipulated x-rays. Thanks to this, the collection had a post-apocalyptic feeling to it and the usage of Artic fox fur, hand-woven leather pieces, and Kirkwood-friendly heels certainly didn't hurt matters. Below, a few of our showroom snapshots and their corresponding runway images. To see Braganza's Fall 2009 in full, click here.
We've just returned from an appointment we now anxiously look forward to every season... a pop-up showroom which hosts the most exciting emerging designers in London. This season the event took place in a beautiful penthouse suite at the very downtown SoHo Grand and we were once again lucky enough to see all kinds of hot-off-the-runway goodies and chat with the designers in person. Before we get into those exciting reports, we have mention to the organization that made this all happen: Centre For Fashion Enterprise. This amazing organization invests time, money, and resources in emerging designers and their businesses for two years at a time. Enterprise alumni include Erdem, Manish Arora, and Marios Schwab to name a few. We'll be bringing you our reports from the showroom throughout the week. Stay tuned!
The designers behind Felder Felder, German twin sisters Annette and Daniela Felder, graduated from Central St Martins just two years ago and, already, their clothing has been shot by Steven Misel for Italian Vogue and Browns Focus in London has declared them their best selling brand. To give you an idea of their aesthetic, you should take a peek at how the sister's dress themselves. Felder Felder is all about contrasts, in texture and silhouette, and their approach to dressing and designing involves mixing tougher, more tailored pieces (like leather hot shorts or a leather fringe jacket) with softer, more fluid ones (like maxi-length chiffon numbers). For Spring 09 the sisters kept to a nude palette, save for the occasional burst of salmon or sea foam, and it was successful for being experimental without being frivolous--something definitely appreciated on the Spring 09 catwalks. To see their Spring 2009 collection, click here. To see our snapshots from the showroom, click below.