>> Steven Meisel photographed Alberta Ferretti's Fall 2009 mainline campaign with books swirling around the lounging models — apparently models and books are becoming a thing — but Alasdair McLellan, along with stylist Vanessa Reid, masterminded the more streamlined Philosophy ads. They went with two relative newcomers for the London shoot: Bailey Barger and Auguste Abeliunaite, who is most well-known for her teary turn on the Jil Sander runway.
>> For Spring 2009 more than ever, brands stuck with campaign models who guarantee a sell — supermodels like Gisele Bundchen and Kate Moss for Versace or Claudia Schiffer for Yves Saint Laurent, Daria Werbowy for Roberto Cavalli — or the classic blonde hair-blue eye combination that Toni Garrn and Anna Maria Jagodzinska's campaign sweeps represented. Also of note for the season, Prada and Balenciaga's decisions to go with big groups of models — eight and ten, respectively.
With Fall 2009 campaign season under way, it sounds like at least a couple of brands have decided to break from that latter part of last season's formula — Wayne Sterling of The Imagist reports:
"It is too early to say and too tenuous to reveal who's holding/confirming what these days but rest assured it is the striking and the extreme that seem to be filtering into the next phase. Among the buzz I picked up by some art directors is a disenchantment with the 'multiples' ideal, that concept of an army of models rocking as many of the looks from the show as possible while waving as many possible it-bags as can be crammed into a double page. Two VERY big brands have already gone 'Only Girl.'"
The most likely candidate from that description of packing the models in seems to be Prada — so does that mean Prada is one of those already-decided brands, and Miuccia's current favorite exclusive Ymre Stiekema is going to finally get a main season campaign under her belt?
>> THE MODELIZER —Mystery solved; an anticlimactic end to the why Auguste Tomasuite (aka Auguste Abeliunaite) was crying at Jil Sander question. Her agent confirmed that the tearing was due to the harsh runway lights, and it was indeed Tomasuite who commented two days ago, "There wasnt any small shoes or my emocional [sic] problems!!!! The lights was very strong and cameras was flashing all the time. My eyes are very sensitive thats why i was crying." Apparently, two other unnamed models were crying at the show as well. As for Auguste, she's done for the season, even though she snagged Jil Sander and Prada spots — she can't go to Paris because she's too young. [Heard on the Runway]
>> THE MODELIZER —The mystery of why Auguste Tomasuite (aka Auguste Abeliunaite) was crying through both of her passes on the Jil Sander runway continues, and even though there is photographic evidence, the brand's US publicist denies it happened: “No model was crying on the runway! No idea what you are talking about, sorry.” When shown the pictures: “I did not see it, can’t see it in the video and no one has asked about it to anyone in the press offices.” [Heard on the Runway]
>> Raf Simons had a tough act to follow after his stunning fringe-filled Spring 2009 Jil Sander collection, but he pulled it off. The first half of the Fall 2009 show was filled with simple dresses, tailored coats, trousers, and flats in a predominantly neutral palette, and then a flash of colored strobe lights came on and the real experimentation began. As Cathy Horyn put it, Raf "tried to defy gravity" — stunning curvilinear shapes poked out from the hip of a dress or snaked around the neck of a coat; a contrastingly bright yellow peeked out from the lining of a dress. Two pieces will for sure get play — the structured orange dress on Vlada Roslykova and the black dress on Nimue Smit with asymmetrical shoulders — padding on one side, points on the other. The only question that remains: why was Lithuanian newcomer Auguste Tomasuite (aka Auguste Abeliunaite) crying on the runway?