Andrew Rosen

>> After yesterday's announcement that Olivier Theyskens is joining Theory as artistic director, today brings a little more insight. Theyskens, who will head up a team of 25 people, says that Theory has promised him total creative freedom. He added that despite his high fashion background, he feels capable of designing anything from a glass to a cellphone: “I feel completely in tune with this new orientation.”

Andrew Rosen, founder and co-CEO of Theory, says that since Theyskens starting working with the brand on his Theyskens' Theory capsule collection back in May, the idea of expanding the designer's role had been on his mind: “Working with Olivier on the initial concept for Theyskens’ Theory, I can’t say that I wasn’t thinking about this all along. This was a natural progression. In some ways, it may seem radical, but for Olivier and me, it was not radical at all. He has been involved in the culture of the company for the past six months.”

Theory has sales of over $500 million globally, and Rosen hopes that Theyskens, whose name is recognizable in fashion circles worldwide, will help build the brand's global profile. “I feel that Olivier’s creativity and energy is what we need for our global expansion,” he said. “The world evolves; people’s tastes evolve; and the way of life evolves. Fashion has to evolve too. This is a natural evolution. Companies cannot get stuck in one place. The culture of the company won’t change, but the energy and creativity will change because there is a new force involved. Even though the Theory business is very strong, I felt it was important to step up the game. I saw a great opportunity to infuse Theory not only creatively but also energetically with someone like Olivier.”

Theyskens will be responsible for building out everything from accessories to menswear, the latter which he hasn't done in the past. “I can’t wait,” Theyskens told WWD. “I haven’t designed men’s wear yet, but it’s been on my mind. I feel very comfortable doing men’s wear.” As for designing for the Theory brand at large, Theyskens notes: “It’s much bigger and slightly different, more an expression of a designer line, while the Theyskens' Theory was quite personal."

Theyskens just secured an apartment in New York's West Village, and though he will continue to spend time in Paris, he says of Manhattan living: “Everybody says there is such a good energy here and I agree.” Like Paris, he's also not leaving designer clothes behind; Theyskens said he is open to creating one-of-a-kind pieces for special occasions, but for now, he is interested in exploring more democratic fashion.

>> Olivier Theyskens, who began working with Theory in May, is strengthening his ties with the brand; he was just named artistic director and will take over design responsibility for the entire Theory brand.

Theyskens first began working with Theory on a capsule collection under the moniker Theyskens' Theory, which he debuted during New York Fashion Week in September. Now, in addition to designing the Theyskens' Theory label, which is launching for Spring 2011, Theyskens will also be designing Theory, with his first collection for the Fall 2011 season. In his newly-created artistic director role, Theyskens is expected to give Theory a fashion slant while still appealing to the brand's existing customer.

Some additional details surrounding the Olivier Theyskens deal with Andrew Rosen's Theory are finally out, and the seemingly unlikely pair are proving to have a lot more in common than one would imagine.

Since leaving Nina Ricci in 2009 (largely due to the house not feeling his collections were commercial enough), Theyskens has reportedly been searching for the opportunity to design more accessible fashion and was the one to initiate a meeting with Rosen.

“There is always a difference between how people perceive you — and I think image is very important in that regard — and the reality of the market,” Theyskens told WWD. He says an improvement in textiles and manufacturing added to his desire to create something more democratic. “It’s more that I see all the possibilities, and that’s very stimulating. I like things to be well thought out, to have a line, and I feel comfortable — I feel this is a very logical fit with what I’ve been looking for.”

Having only inked a deal two weeks ago, Rosen and Theyskens are still figuring out exactly how the partnership will evolve and what the upcoming collection might include. Two things the duo has confirmed—Theyskens will be based in New York, and the collaboration will be called Theyskens Theory.  As for a release date, Rosen announced the line will be presented with showroom appointments in New York around the time of the Spring 2011 fashion shows this September.

>> Theory's Andrew Rosen to Invest in Proenza Schouler? —Early on this month, reports came that Permira, which owns a minority stake in Proenza Schouler, was shopping its interest in the label around. Now, Fashionista's sources report that a day after the news broke, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez met with Andrew Rosen, CEO of Theory, who is an investor in labels like Rag & Bone and Alice + Olivia. There's no confirmation, but the timing suggests that perhaps Rosen is considering an investment in the brand. [Fashionista]