If it's not see-through, it's not couture--at least that's what you would think, looking at the Fall 2009 runways. Transparent black and white looks were popular, as almost everyone included them in their collections. Although this seems a classic direction to take, the transparency trend may also have been tipped off by Chanel's stellar Spring 2009 couture collection, which included quite a few gauzy transparent looks. Regardless, it's safe to say that black tie events everywhere are in for a seductive treat.
It seems as though Valentino creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli are starting to turn things around. Fall 2009 couture was nothing like the too-safe offerings the duo have sent down the runway since they took the helm at Valentino. The Couture collection this season was short, wispy and black--almost the opposite of the conservative, heavy and brightly colored Fall 2009 ready-to-wear collection. As if to drive the point home the collection contained not even a hint of Valentino red.
Riccardo Tisci's Moroccan theme for the Men's Spring 2010 collection carried over to the Fall 2009 Haute Couture collection, which showed yesterday in Paris. In both collections, North African prints and heavy metal hardware dominated. It's likely we'll see some remnants of the Moroccan theme in Tisci's Spring 2010 women's ready-to-wear range, which will be revealed late this summer at Paris Fashion Week.
The Chanel Fall 2009 Haute Couture collection was strong and elegant at once. To us, it seemed to call up Nina Ricci Fall 2009 by way of the sloping headpieces, lean tailoring and strong-shouldered silhouettes. Now that Chanel is involved, we'll surely see more of these trends in the coming seasons.