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Posts for March 2nd 2013

Jean Paul Gaultier Runway Review | Fashion Week Fall 2013
fashion week

Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2013

The backdrop of Jean Paul Gaultier's Fall 2013 show was backlit to show the shadows of models posing behind a screen bearing the designer's name.
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Jean Paul Gaultier Runway Review | Fashion Week Fall 2013

The backdrop of Jean Paul Gaultier's Fall 2013 show was backlit to show the shadows of models posing behind a screen bearing the designer's name. If that visual effect wasn't powerful enough, the first few looks down the runway — shirts and jackets in stiff materials molded and seemingly bolted to their models' figures — telegraphed the strength and confidence that come with wearing a suit of armor.

And while there was an emphasis on strong, pointed shoulders in this show, there were also moments when Gaultier exposed them. After all, knowing when to show your strengths is just as important as knowing when to hide them.

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Haider Ackermann Runway Review | Fashion Week Fall 2013
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Haider Ackermann Fall 2013

On a runway shrouded by dry ice mist, Haider Ackermann sent out a Fall 2013 lineup that felt tough, powerful, and sublimely elegant.
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On a runway shrouded by dry ice mist, Haider Ackermann sent out a Fall 2013 lineup that felt tough, powerful, and sublimely elegant. Models with two-inch roots in their spiked-and-bleached hair marched slowly to the eerie sounds of wind blowing and boots stomping, while intermittent piano music further spurred the aura of melancholia.

"I'm surrounded by so many strong women, but there’s always a fragility inside, and I wanted to explore that," the designer explained of the dystopian feeling that permeated the show. Suits, jackets, and coats were piled on in slouchy layers and oversize shapes, all of which were artfully draped, folded, and tailored in Ackermann's signature expert way. Fabrics were also similarly heavy and defensive and included monochrome wools, herringbone, leather, and superthick fur. The future may be dark, but at least we'll have something chic to wear.

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Viktor & Rolf Runway Review | Fashion Week Fall 2013
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Viktor & Rolf Fall 2013

Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren's theatrical runway antics took a backseat to wearability again for Fall 2013 — but that doesn't mean this collection was much less dramatic than past seasons'.
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Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren's theatrical runway antics took a backseat to wearability again for Fall 2013 — but that doesn't mean this collection was much less dramatic than past seasons'.

Working almost exclusively in black and white, the duo created dresses, skirts, and shirts with their signature ruffles and bows. Some of these would have looked sweet if it hadn't been for the stark palette. But instead, these garments had a noticeable edge — especially when paired with the short, almost tutu-like miniskirts that exposed long stretches of the models' legs.

Speaking of legs, the designers embroidered, beaded, and feathered a few garments — most notably a few pairs of trousers — to make them look ripped up. It's the kind of engineered destruction that looks good on and off the runway.

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