Judging from her clever takes on shape and prints, there's no doubt that Mary Katrantzou is one of London's most exciting young designers to watch. And after Sunday's dreamy, transportive Fall 2013 collection, Katrantzou has certainly further solidified that spot. This season, the designer bucked expectation and offered up pieces that were largely void of the in-your-face hues and geometric patterns that have become her calling card. Instead, she worked with a smoky palette of grays, blues, and deep rusts, that — thanks to structured satin sculpted with origami folds, billowing chiffon, and intricate tree-branch prints — resulted in a collection that was as powerful and moody as storm clouds gathering on a gray Winter day.
Posts for February 17th 2013
L'Wren Scott took inspiration for her Fall 2013 collection from the work of Gustav Klimt, who made many of his most famous paintings sparkle with the addition of gold leaf. That explains the swirls of gold fabric on Scott's coats and dresses and on a dramatic cape toward the end of the show. It also explains the exuberant use of sequins and gold accents like buttons and bow ties, and rich jewel tones like teal, burgundy, and cobalt blue.
What's black and white and red all over? Justin Thornton and Leah Bregazzi's Fall 2013 collection for Preen fits that description, but the offering's story is about more than color. The duo got a lot of mileage out of their focused color palette and used fused prints like leopard and tartan to pleasing effect. Contrasting piping on off-center shirt collars looked modern, while the sleek cut of other pieces, like slim suits and a halter dress with a plunging neckline, telegraphed a confident strength. The show ended with a selection of pieces festooned with crisscrossing stripes of jeweled embellishment. After all, a little bling never hurt anyone.
A darker take on the bounty of the English countryside informed Emma Hill's Fall 2013 collection for Mulberry. Floral prints, like a spray of multicolored flowers on black fabric, bloomed all over the offering, as did variations on the classic English check in multiple sizes. Butterflies, another visual motif, kept the nature theme going, but a dark color palette of oxblood, midnight blue, and emerald provided an interesting tension.
But to keep things from getting too dark, the brand stationed a flower sculpture on the side of its runway and cast Max the dog to model a check coat and another coat in a butterfly print.