When designing his Spring 2013 collection, Dean Quinn was feeling many things: futuristic, slightly sporty, and majorly sleek. The Ireland-born designer showcased shiny silver satin suits, cool origami details, tuxedo-inspired shirtdresses for a menswear vibe, and exposed-zipper dresses with a sporty edge. All the models wore mirrored silver or white footwear, which further reinforced the futuristic vibe. The uncomplicated color scheme — black, white, silver, and pops of red and yellow dominated — and solid fabrics ensured that no matter the cut, all the pieces retained an air of sophistication.
Posts for September 9th 2012
As if to reassert her position as the designer of the most quintessentially New York brand in the industry, Donna Karan's Spring 2013 DKNY show was a love letter to the city that never sleeps written in black, white, and taxicab yellow.
The clothes, "born and inspired by life in the city," according to the show notes, were classic DKNY — they perfectly blended the sporty athleticism women need to make it through pedestrian traffic with an unpretentious elegance. Clean-lined dresses and skirts hit just above the knee with wide perforated borders, while neoprene jersey dresses were accented with mesh panels that showed a little skin. Leather pieces, like a metallic silver bomber jacket and a rich brown dress, added a little edge, and the yellow garments — which included a shirt, a gown, a swimsuit, and the long windbreaker Karan wore to take her bow — were as eye-catching as a cab on a busy street.
This show also included pieces from DKNY's secondary lines DKNY Jeans and pureDKNY, and the denim pieces blended seamlessly with the rest of the collection. After all, city girls need good jeans just as much as they need little black dresses and silk button-ups.
The first outfits to appear on Derek Lam's Spring 2013 runway were met with more than a few looks of surprise. Not that the pieces weren't pleasing; it was just that the autumnal palette of mustard and green seemed to catch most of the sleepy-eyed Sunday crowd a little off guard.
Regardless of those first unexpected hues, this was a collection that exemplified Lam's unique talent for elevating classic sportswear. Silhouettes were straightforward, yes, but up close, there were plenty of intriguing elements at play — asymmetrical seaming, for one. That turned up on everything from a slick leather shift dress with knife pleating at the hem to a killer bilevel trench coat. A series of slim skirts, boxy t-shirts, and straight dresses in geometrically embroidered mesh and amped-up jewel tones were definitely fetching. And those pencil skirts and dresses covered in crumpled paillettes that closed the show? Just the thing to wake the crowd up.
The collection of modern, professional separates Victoria Beckham showed at the New York Public Library for Spring 2013 was monochromatic with a few bold splashes of fiery orange. Beckham hewed to her customary clean lines and minimal embellishment and focused instead on telling a story with shape. A-line hems on skirts, dresses, and even jackets evoked a sense of movement from a designer whose usual trope stays close to the body. That doesn't mean Beckham wasn't aware of the body either: her slim-cut trousers drew long, lean lines that were only lengthened by the inventive shoes Manolo Blahnik created for the presentation, and the broderie anglaise featured in two tops — one black, one white — showed a little skin.
MM6, the secondary line from the genius creative team at Maison Martin Margiela, staged the first of what it promises will be many New York Fashion Week presentations in the seasons to come on Saturday. With the opening of its first store on Bleeker Street — not to mention its mother house's much-anticipated collaboration with H&M — the timing couldn't be better for the brand to make a statement.
The message for Spring 2013 puts comfort first. Even references to military dressing — seen best in a khaki trench coat and sweaters and other toppers with reinforce shoulders — couldn't overwhelm the number of elegantly presented t-shirts and sweats in the collection. A gray three-piece suit made of sweatshirt material best spoke to the casual air of the collection, but the many generous, floor-length skirts and easy dresses in the collection helped make the point too.