Posts for September 22nd 2012

fashion week

Emilio Pucci Spring 2013

This season, there have been plenty of explorations in eastern exoticism.
Emilio Pucci Spring 2013 | Runway

This season, there have been plenty of explorations in eastern exoticism. Vera Wang did it, Prada too. But no one, for Spring 2013 anyway, has done it as sexily as Peter Dundas did today with his languid play on the "opulence of Indochina."

Sheer was the name of the game here, and it came in the form of white chiffon and organza that covered (well, not really) the body in loose layers and billowing shapes. Wide-leg trousers, tunics, tank tops, and even a trench coat seemed to float off the body in barely there wisps; some pieces were anchored only by strategically placed opaque panels or delicate, crystal-embellished embroidery in dragon and tiger motifs. A later group consisting of silky anoraks, kimono-style jackets, column gowns, and slouchy pantsuits came in liquid-like silk and printed with bold blossom prints or adorned with metallic appliqué. Though less revealing, they embodied the same sensual spirit.

Milan Fashion Week

Jil Sander Spring 2013

"Reset to zero," read the notes for Jil Sander's Spring 2013 show, the first womenswear collection shown by the company's founding designer in eight years.
Jil Sander Spring 2013 | Runway

"Reset to zero," read the notes for Jil Sander's Spring 2013 show, the first womenswear collection shown by the company's founding designer in eight years. Indeed, after last season's emotional Raf Simons send-off following the sudden announcement that Sander would be rejoining her namesake label, there was little doubt that the house was in need of a nice fresh start. And in a way that's exactly what we got — though it didn't come in the form of direction-shifting drama or statement-making change. Instead, Sander offered up a collection that felt comfortingly true and reassuringly restrained, with just enough modernity to provoke a little intrigue. Silhouettes were cut in structured curves that stood elegantly away from the body, while the palette of rich navy, burgundy, and crisp white punctuated by vivid orange felt right in line with fashion's recent penchant for cleverly appointed color. There was plenty to love and it was plenty serene, but mostly it will be interesting to see where it all leads.

fashion week

Bottega Veneta Spring 2013

Ladylike sweetness met downtown tough at Bottega Veneta's Spring 2013 presentation.
Bottega Veneta Spring 2013 | Runway

Ladylike sweetness met downtown tough at Bottega Veneta's Spring 2013 presentation. Designer Tomas Maier offered up intricately studded skirts, seductively fringed corset dresses, boxy button-down blouses, and embellished pencil skirts — all of which explored the tension between pretty and subversive seamlessly. Standout looks included sequined tees and point d'esprit cardigans tucked into demure appliquéd skirts and sexy laser-cut lace dresses in shadowy floral hues.

Fendi

Fendi Spring 2013

Karl Lagerfeld's luxe version of futurism for Spring 2013 consisted of clean sportswear silhouettes, Bauhaus graphics, and one of the freshest color palettes seen so far this season.
Fendi Spring 2013 | Runway

Karl Lagerfeld's luxe version of futurism for Spring 2013 consisted of clean sportswear silhouettes, Bauhaus graphics, and one of the freshest color palettes seen so far this season. Pastel and bold hues — apricot, turquoise, ochre, baby blue, red, beige, and gray — were offset by crisp black or solid white, and when rendered in the form of thick lines (on the hems of A-line skirts) or contrasting panels (on button placards and on the inseams of pants) it all made for a sharp, optical effect. Leather, fur, and an oversized explosion print added texture and softness, while the house's colorblocked bags — stripped of all hardware — felt modern and fresh.