Riccardo Tisci fused Hubert de Givenchy's clean-lined '60s silhouettes with an eclectic, bohemian gypsy vibe when he created his Fall 2012 Couture collection for Givenchy. The 10-look offering is as much a "collision of contradiction," as the house called it, as it is a study in how to take luxurious materials out of their own comfort zones. Nappa leather, for example, was cut into a fringe that got bonded back together to form the bodice and sleeves of one dress. The same fringe was also used to create a floor-length cape. When they were done cutting leather into strips, workers in Tisci's atelier turned their attention to creating a sort of mink lace — pieces of the fur were shaved away to allow for beadwork to shine through, then formed into coats with short kimono sleeves. Another cape spun from a red-and-black beaded fringe only displays its intricate pattern when it stands still. And that's where the contradiction in this collection is at play: the dresses that rely on movement and color to make statements blend perfectly well with beige wool column dresses that look forceful and powerful when they stand completely still.
Posts for July 6th 2012
Milla Jovovich, Sofia Coppola, Caroline Sieber, Clémence Poésy, Lou Doillon, and so many more — this season's batch of couture attendees was so chic that we had no choice but to devote the week's entire Best Dressed to the stellar looks spotted front row and outside the shows. From Michelle Harper's amazing plays on proportion to Anna Dello Russo's nonstop ensemble rotation (our favorite by far is the pink ball gown she wore while hanging around the Place Vendome) to Diane Kruger's perfect baby-blue French-girl redux — plus Alber Elbaz's superdapper suit, Marc Jacobs's red-soled shoes, Karl Lagerfeld's bejeweled brooch, and more — they're all right here, in the slideshow.
Though they were by turns intricately embroidered and heavily beaded, many of the Turkish-inspired garments in Elie Saab's Fall 2012 Couture offering looked light as air when they came down the runway in Paris this week. Saab said he focused on "infusing the collection with imperial splendor," so all 46 looks were of the same high-glamour, sparkly ilk that has made Saab a red-carpet staple. The almost ephemeral quality of many of these dresses and gowns came from their materials: sheer fabrics played host to rich embellishments, like Ottoman Empire motifs and fabric treatments that looked like gold leaf from afar. But Saab brought the collection back down to the ground with dresses in solid fabrics, too, which he decorated with the same expert hand he applied to the other breezy fabrics that floated down the runway.
Maison Martin Margiela's "artisanal"-themed Fall 2012 Couture collection combined found materials in exquisite handcrafted pieces that made perhaps the most avant-garde statement in Paris this week. The 15-piece collection included such items as an overcoat made from a windsurf sail, a jacket composed of baseball mitts, and a sleeveless jacket that used a crystal doorknob found in New York City as its fastener. Raf Simons, who started the week with his debut Couture collection for Dior, was seated in the front row at the show, leading many in the audience to believe that Margiela himself would make an appearance (the two are said to be good friends). But Margiela never showed his face . . . nor did the models who walked the runway, with their heads obscured by crystal-studded masks. The high-concept design in this collection stayed — literally — close to head and heart. Below the waist, most of the models wore pants cut from raw cotton or simple lace.
Jean Paul Gaultier made references to writer George Sand's scandal-inducing cross-dressing in the 1850s and the art deco movement of the 1920s for his Fall 2012 Couture show. The presentation combined looks for men and women seamlessly, as many of the women's looks had a decidedly masculine bent. Erin O'Connor opened dressed in a tuxedo, top hat, and cane, while Pete Doherty's voice was overheard lamenting that he has the "disease of the century" (the voiceover is a clipping from Doherty's turn in the film Confession of a Child of the Century, in which he plays a 19th century dandy). The looks that weren't borrowed from the boys were over the top in their delivery: a colorblocked fur coat provided a shroud of warmth to a sheer pale yellow dress embroidered with flowers, while a sleeveless jumpsuit in an intricate gold fabric was paired with a similarly spangled overcoat. Gaultier's finale bridal gown brought the focus back to the blend of masculine and feminine in the collection with a bodice that resembled a man's tail coat worn backward.
Those stories and more here, in our daily report.
- Rihanna may look super svelte on the cover of Harper's Bazaar's August 2012 issue, but she says she misses a certain, ahem, asset. "I miss my ass. It just went away! I need a butt. I have an idea of one, but it's not living up to its full potential right now," the newly size-zero singer says. The issue hits newsstands July 17. [Fashionologie Inbox]
- Karl Lagerfeld's latest muse Choupette already has a bag named after her — and soon she'll make her modeling debut as well. The kitten will appear alongside Laetitia Casta in an upcoming issue of V. [Fashionista]
- Speaking of muses, Arizona Muse stars with actor Caleb Landry in G-Star's Fall 2012 campaign. Photographer Anton Corbijn shot the duo in the frosty heights of the French Alps. [Style.com]
- Eco maven Livia Firth has designed a sustainably conscious capsule collection. The five-piece assortment will be available on her Yooxygen-powered site Eco-Age.com and comprises an organic wool dress, a hand-embroidered pashmina, a hand-crafted necklace, and two cloche hats. [Telegraph UK]
- In other partnership news, Leandra Medine has teamed with French brand Maje to design and install an exclusive window display for the brand's New York SoHo boutique. The creation will debut July 17. [Fashionologie Inbox]
- Last time it was tennis; now it's swimming. In the latest video campaign for her line Under.Me, Bar Refaeli shows off a new batch of cotton tees and thongs whilst taking a nice leisurely dip — and wearing black-rimmed reading glasses. [Modelinia]
Giorgio Armani's Fall 2012 Couture collection for Armani Privé was inspired by beauty found in the everyday: the sun rising in the morning and setting in the afternoon, the sky yielding to constellations of stars at night. That message was grounded in clothing colored to resemble the sky at various times of day: sunrise pinks, oranges, dusky purples, and midnight blues were featured prominently on colorblocked shirts, subtle ombre jackets, and cardigans with sheer sleeves — many of which were paired with Armani's signature full-cut trousers in black. By the time the show had progressed to evening, the looks looked more like night, too. Futuristic dresses (one asymmetrical gown featured a spike of fabric that veered off over the left shoulder) embroidered with crystals or affixed with sequins dominated the latter half of the collection and were shown on models wearing sheer, beaded veils that called to mind shooting stars and meteor showers. With those, Armani said he was trying to create an air of mystery, but they also added a textural layer of beauty to a show already infused with plenty of sparkle and glamour.