Alexis Mabille said he was "imagining women as jewels" when he created his Fall 2012 Couture collection, and that meant an assortment of gowns in jewel-toned fabrics studded with lots of sparkle. Mabille showed his dresses in shades of onyx, amethyst, tanzanite, silver, and gold, and decorated them with lace embellishments and Swarovski Crystallized Elements. (One long-sleeved black dress had over 600 Swarovski buttons applied to it.) But perhaps the most obvious sign of Mabille's bejeweled inspiration came in the form of a hair decoration: All the models in the show had their hair plastered into sickles with brooches hanging from the tips.
Posts for July 5th 2012
Don't let the cast of newbies — Juliet Ingelby, Rosie Tapner, Linn Arvidsson, Sophie Hirschfelder, and Anniek Kortleve — fool you. Balenciaga's Fall 2012 ad campaign is '80s glam-azing, all the way. The girls — dressed in Fall 2012's space-invader tops, big-shouldered jackets, and iridescent carrot pants — pose on windswept sand dunes while the darkly lit sky overhead creates a moody vibe.
The images will grace the pages of major magazines this Fall, but you can preview them right now in the slideshow.
Photographed by Steven Meisel and styled by Marie-Amélie Sauvé.
Those stories and more in our daily news digest.
Yves Saint Laurent — or Saint Laurent Paris, rather — has been presenting Hedi Slimane's Resort 2013 collection to buyers since late June, and so far, the people who have seen the garments called them "very tailored and sharp." The collection is also said to be said to be "significantly more expensive than Stefano Pilati's era."
So, what's offered? There are reportedly "lots of silky, girly tops" as well as plenty of pinstripes, skinny jeans, hot pants, tuxedos, and cigarette pants. Colors range from black, white, and gray to red and fuschia, with sequins and animal prints, as well. Initial feedback to the collection was said to be "resoundingly positive."
Nevertheless, the house is definitely keeping Slimane's first two collections under wraps. In May, the house decided not to show women's Resort 2013 and men's Spring 2013 to the press so that the designer would be free to make his first big fashion statement for the house with his women's Spring 2013 collection during Paris Fashion Week. Buyers were also not allowed to take pictures during the Resort presentation, and the house didn't provide anyone with lookbooks.
On Thursday, WWD released some artistic renderings of the collection, but YSL was quick to point out that the drawings, which were penned by noted fashion illustrator Steven Stipelman, are not official representations of the collection.
"The sketches released in WWD dated July 4, 2012, do not represent YSL Cruise '13 Collection and obviously were not designed by Hedi Slimane," the brand tweeted . WWD has since removed the illustrations.
Find a look at Steven Stipelman's Saint Laurent Paris Resort 2013 illustrations, here.
— Additional reporting by Christina Pérez
Here's a look at Steven Stipelman's sketches of Hedi Slimane's Resort 2013 collection for Saint Laurent Paris. The sketches are based only on descriptions of the pieces — as stated by those that have seen them in person — and are simply a representation of what the collection may look like.
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli kept up the dark streak from their Fall ready-to-wear line when they created their evening-focused Fall 2012 Couture collection. The show was partly inspired by the painter Gustave Moreau, who, according to the house, was "a lover of dark colors but never painted with black." The resulting assortment traveled to visual extremes: at times it relied on heavy brocades, painted floral patterns, and intricate beadwork for a sense of richness and luxury, and at others the simplicity of long-sleeved dresses in dark, solid colors made for stark contrast. But even the dresses in basic black carried more than meets the eye — the first dress that came down the runway, a sheer, pleated number in black chiffon and crepe de chine, took 500 hours to create. Offering both forms of high-concept design seems an effective strategy: Valentino CEO Stefano Sassi said couture orders are now back to the volume they enjoyed in 2008, when Valentino Garavani was still designing.