Those stories and more in our daily news roundup.
Carine Roitfeld's New Muse, Pamela Love's Wedding Pics, and Rachel Zoe's Latest Line
Those stories and more in our daily news roundup.
Posts for July 2nd 2012
Atelier Versace Fall 2012
There was no shortage of glitz at Atelier Versace's Fall 2012 show on Monday, the first full-on runway outing for the couture label in nearly a decade.
There was no shortage of glitz at Atelier Versace's Fall 2012 show on Monday, the first full-on runway outing for the couture label in nearly a decade. In fact, Donatella seemed intent on summoning the flamboyant spirit of the label's founder, Gianni. The show was held in the storied pool room of the Ritz Paris — the same place Gianni used to hold his show — with the pool covered over and three sleek glass panels providing an electric-hued backdrop.
The theme, the show notes stated, was "deconstruction and reconstruction in all its various forms." This manifested itself in the perforated-leather jackets, plasticized-strip minidresses, and pieced-and-stitched gowns — with slits up to there — that came down the runway glittering with crystal beads and in pastel metallics. Silhouettes, too, played with the idea of juxtaposition and revision, in skin-revealing layers and curve-enhancing forms: the skirts of gowns billowed out from second-skin corsets, and sharp-flared jackets nipped in at the waist with tough leather belts.
Photos courtesy Versace
Sarah Burton Doesn't See a Couture Future For Alexander McQueen
Though a good deal of her clothing is made by hand, Sarah Burton doesn't envision adding a couture collection to her Alexander McQueen offering.
Though a good deal of her clothing is made by hand, Sarah Burton doesn't envision adding a couture collection to her Alexander McQueen offering.
"We do so many collections, and I want each one to be special," Burton said in a recent interview. "There is always a lot done by hand, even for the pre-collection. I know this is not Paris couture, but in our humble way we are working towards it."
Last year Burton led a team of lacemakers and seamstresses to create the custom wedding dress that Kate Middleton wore to marry Prince William. She also has a handful of private clients who commission custom clothing on occasion. Beyond that work, Burton says she's content with the company's "amazing ability to develop any collection with our technicians, with students and with people working by hand" in the ready-to-wear lines.
Still, other fashion houses are expanding their own handmade offering. Dolce & Gabbana recently confirmed that it will stage a test-run couture show in Sicily later this month, and Versace recently added a limited collection of fine jewelry to its haute couture offering.
Photo: A look from Alexander McQueen's Fall 2012 collection.
The Scene at Raf Simons's Dior Couture Debut
Designers, editors, socialites, and royalty were among those who watched Raf Simons's debut couture show for Christian Dior at a flower-filled Paris mansion Monday.
Designers, editors, socialites, and royalty were among those who watched Raf Simons's debut couture show for Christian Dior at a flower-filled Paris mansion Monday. The high turnout seems almost as significant as the garments themselves: Cathy Horyn noted that having such a large number of fellow designers in attendance — the group included legends Pierre Cardin, Azzedine Alaia, Diane von Furstenberg, Alber Elbaz, Riccardo Tisci, Donatella Versace, Marc Jacobs, and Simons's Dior Homme counterpart Kris Van Assche — was "surely a first in fashion."
Anna Wintour and Hamish Bowles were also at the show — Wendi Murdoch sat between them — and so were fellow editors Grace Coddington, Glenda Bailey, Alexandra Shulman, Stefano Tonchi, and Edward Enninful. Emanuelle Alt said she hadn't "been this excited to see a show in a long time. Today I'm going to see something I've never seen before." When Derek Blasberg saw Marion Cotillard, Stella Tennant, and Charlotte Rampling arrive at the show, he observed, "Raf is one popular boy!"
Popular indeed. Bernard Arnault, who owns Christian Dior, attended the show with his daughter Delphine — sat next to Princess Charlene of Monaco — his son Antoine, and Antoine's girlfriend Natalia Vodianova.
Despite favorable reviews and warm accolades in general, the applause at the end of the show was described by some as "lackluster." Simons himself may not have noticed — the designer "only waved for a second and left."
Christian Dior Couture Fall 2012
A series of rooms filled with an abundance of flowers set the stage for Raf Simons's thoroughly modern couture debut at Christian Dior.
A series of rooms filled with an abundance of flowers set the stage for Raf Simons's thoroughly modern couture debut at Christian Dior. But even though the blooms, arranged by color across five salons, were mesmerizing — Anna Wintour was overheard saying to Grace Coddington, "Isn't this amazing? A million flowers." — their beauty didn't distract from the glory of the show.
With respectful nods to the house's past, Simons created a collection that interpreted Christian Dior's 1947 design aesthetic for women living in 2012. Some said the collection represented a New New Look, and with its generous peplums and updated versions of wasp-waisted dresses and balloon-skirted gowns, this collection certainly belongs to that tradition.
The backs of some dresses were covered in reproductions of Dior's archival embroidery patterns, while the fronts were decorated with Simons's version of the same embellishments. Pastel feathers were used in the embroidery work to inject the house's signature colors into the offering. Cathy Horyn tweeted a picture of the house's classic bar jacket, which was treated with black beads that looked like caviar and paired with cigarette pants. The garments that were left unadorned — like a slim strapless cocktail dress in pale pink — displayed subtle details like gentle pleating. Derek Blasberg proclaimed that "in the last 13 minutes, Raf Simons just single-handedly altered the contemporary haute couture landscape."
Other important faces in the industry, including Alber Elbaz, Pierre Cardin, Stefano Tonchi, Franca Sozzani, Marc Jacobs, Donatella Versace, and Azzedine Alaia, attended the show. Diane von Furstenberg said the offering was "superb" and exclaimed "another talented Belgian!" Nina Garcia, meanwhile, said Simons's show was "beautiful, perfect, and simple." And it was.
Daria Werbowy and Betty Boop Hypnotize in Lancôme's New Film
"Just say it with the eyes," Betty Boop — yes, that Betty Boop — tells Daria Werbowy in this adorable new mini film from Lancôme.
"Just say it with the eyes," Betty Boop — yes, that Betty Boop — tells Daria Werbowy in this adorable new mini film from Lancôme. Created in honor of the brand's new Hypnôse Star Mascara and directed by Joann Sfar, the film features Werbowy as an up-and-coming ingenue in need of some sage advice from a veteran star. "I've been in the business since black and white," Boop assures her.
The chemistry between the two talents is undeniable, and Werbowy is charming. After all, it's not easy to act opposite a drawing — even one as charismatic as Boop. Lancôme's Hypnôse Star Mascara hits Sephora for pre-sale July 9.
