>> If you've got to go, might as well do it with a bang. Or better yet, with an army of sharp-shouldered power women leading the charge.

For his last collection at Yves Saint Laurent, Stefano Pilati did just that. His coats, dresses, tops, and trousers were cut in strongly tailored '80s shapes — broad-topped, angular, and belted. Chainmail dresses, slinky jumpsuits, and asymmetrical furs felt darkly glam in dusky greens and inky blacks; and the house's Le Smoking was re-imagined in sharp swaths of silver or leather. It was tough, chic, and as confident as they come.

Pilati may be out, but he's not looking back.

>> Vanessa Bruno went dark, tough, and moody for Fall 2012. Shiny vinyl crop-pants, hip-skimming leather skirts, sharp-cut blazers, and sheer lace tops came in a palette of black, black, and more black — plus a few jewel tones, for good measure.

>> For her second season at Chloé, Clare Waight Keller worked the house's signature pastels into an easy-wearing lineup of slouchy separates and puffed-up outerwear — and it felt just right for Fall 2012. Silhouettes were soft, sporty, and cozy in quilted silk, fleecy wools, and nubby knits. Slim-cut trousers, button-down blouses, and utility pockets offered a sense of structure, while breezy pieces in an assortment of lace added girlie charm.

>> "Horse riding, Guy Bourdin, and Paris in the '70s," were Riccardo Tisci's talking points for Fall 2012 Givenchy. The horse-riding influence was present in the form of equestrian jackets, slouchy jodhpurs, and chap-like knee-high boots. But this wasn't your average English countryside jaunt; there were also ruffled peplums and undulating bustles, lacy boudoir slip dresses, ruffles of scarlet chiffon, and an eye-popping amount of slick black leather. The tough sexiness? Part of it was the Guy Bourdin '70s bit, sure, but mostly it was all Tisci.

>> It's not surprising that Stella McCartney would have athletic-wear on her mind — she is, after all, designing the British uniforms for the upcoming Olympics. Not surprising either, then, that a bit of sports influence would creep into her Fall 2012 ready-to-wear collection. And indeed, there it was in the form of baseball jackets, racing stripes, tennis dresses, and streamlined ski sweaters. But, as McCartney puts it, "the Stella woman is about balance," so there were plenty of elegant, grown-up elements on hand as well. Those tennis dresses? They were flippy, sure, but they were also cut in a serious tweed. And the speedy-looking ski sweaters? Those came neatly tucked into work-ready trousers.

Also on hand for more of that signature Stella balance: cable-knit sweater sets, sharply tailored jacquard suits, and a selection of electric-hued power coats that — with their asymmetrical zips, contrast panels, and oversized proportions — felt very right now.

>> There may have been bold prints and crimson hues, but the collection on offer from Giambattista Valli felt much more sober than usual this time around. The designer kept it straightforward for Fall 2012, eschewing his trademark embellishment and frills and opting instead for clean-lined silhouettes and tailored pieces. Tweeds, plaids, and patterned knits dominated in shades of black, ivory, and gray for day, while for evening, there were pleated chiffons, speckled furs, and even a smattering of metallic croc. It was chic and wearable, yes, but it would have been nice to see just a bit more of that signature Valli spark.