>> It wouldn't be Cavalli without a heavy dose of animal print. This season, the ocelot and leopard covered '60s drop-waist dresses, wide-leg crop pants, and high-neck blouses. Adding to the playful spirit was a plethora of super-shiny patent, shimmering lamé, and metallic leather.
Posts for February 2012
>> To the beat of a staccato drum, Rossella Jardini marched out a primary-hued parade of '60s silhouettes and kitschy military shapes for Fall 2012. Shiny pleated miniskirts, graphic drop-waist dresses, and brass-buttoned swing coats were among the eclectic hits, while the models — in true Moschino fashion — were styled to the hilt: there were giant hoop earrings, cowboy hats, heart pendants, and black bow head scarves topping every look.
>> The Jil Sander Group has confirmed that designer Jil Sander will return to her eponymous label. "I am very happy and excited to be back. It feels like coming home after a brief journey," the designer — who founded the company in 1968 — said in a statement. "The fashion world needs original voices and genuine signatures. I will do my best to, once again, join the choir."
Sander's first collection will be the men's Spring 2012 collection shown in June.
The confirmation comes just one day after the company announced that the current creative director, Raf Simons, would leave his post following the presentation of the women's Fall 2012 collection this weekend in Milan.
This is not the first time Sander has returned to the company. After exiting in 2000, she returned to the creative helm in 2003, only to leave again a short time later. [WWD]
Photo: courtesy of Jil Sander
>> Trousers, trousers, trousers. That was the message at Prada. Oh, there were dresses, skirts, and coats as well, but mostly it was about the trouser. They were in every one of the collection's 41 looks, hit just above the ankle, and were cut straight — but not too slim. They came in black wool — sometimes bejeweled at the hem — and later, in a mix of Op Art-Brady Bunch-style prints.
Over the last few seasons or so, there have been hints that the idea of wearing pants under dresses was making a comeback — Acne and Opening Ceremony each showed the style for Spring 2012 — but here the concept was the main thesis.
As a whole, it made for an outing that was focused, controlled — and plenty appealing. Silhouettes on coats and dresses were crisp and sharp, and — with their empire waists and a-line silhouettes — youthful. Also youthful and super-appealing: the models' hair, which was long, straight, and dip-dyed in contrasting hues.
>> Karl Lagerfeld played mix master for Fall 2012 Fendi, citing an "infinite, innovative interplay of textures, colors and fabrics" as the collection's basis. And true enough — the elements on display were seemingly endless. There were pleated panels, bustles, peplums, capes, and puffed sleeves — all cinched together with enormous belts. Materials were just as diverse, with PVC, crocodile, cashmere, stingray, and — this being Fendi — gobs and gobs of fur. "Modern femininity without references," Lagerfeld explained.
>> Max Mara's Fall 2012 collection mixed the stark aesthetic of Fritz Lang's Metropolis with a hint of Bauhaus architecture. The result? A moody assortment of clean-lined cocoon shapes and drop-waist silhouettes tinged with military sensibility. Angora, camel, cashmere, fur, and a sprinkling of stripes added texture — and luxury.
>> This Saturday's Fall 2012 Jil Sander show in Milan will be Raf Simons's last for the label. In a joint statement, the Sander company thanked Simons "for his dedicated commitment to the brand, throughout these years, and wishes him the very best for the future." Simons has been creative director at Jil Sander for seven years.
The announcement comes after immense speculation that Jil Sander may be returning to the healm of her eponymous label. In an interview with WWD Japan earlier this month, Sander mentioned that she was working on a new project that would be announced during Milan Fashion Week. Jil Sander Group says it will announce its new creative director "in the next few days."
Of course, this raises an important question: Where will Raf Simons go?
>> Get a head start on next season with these super-chic nail looks, poached straight from the Fall 2012 runways. From the quirky polka dots on offer at Kate Spade New York to the moody "modern moons" at Antonio Berardi, there's definitely no shortage of inspiration to glean. Click through to see some of our favorites, and stay tuned for more to come from Paris and Milan.
>> The release of the complete lookbook a few days ago was only part of the story — now, the entire Marni for H&M ad campaign is here. Lensed by Sofia Coppola and featuring model Liu Wen and actress Imogen Poots — who also stars in the collection's campaign video — the images are exactly what we'd expect: dreamy, exotic, and rich with want-now patterns and prints. See the images here, now.
>> Alessandro Dell'Acqua tapped "Queen Elizabeth in her private life, particularly when she is gardening in the country, but in a contemporary way," as his inspiration for Fall 2012. The designer also expanded on the menswear influence he focused on for Pre-Fall, working in masculine fabrics and some sharp sartorial tailoring into his signature fit-for-an-Italian-screen-siren aesthetic. Adding an element of girlie sparkle — and Queenly glamour? — were mini-dresses embellished with holographic sequins, delicate lace, and multi-colored rhinestones.