>> This season, Dries Van Noten took a trip to Asia — by way of the archives of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. The scarf-like prints that dominated the collection were actually photo prints taken from the traditional garments of the museum's Far East collection.

To balance the exotic nature of the prints, Van Noten did exactly what Van Noten does best. That is, he kept the silhouettes wearable and and the styling relatable. Cropped coats, midi skirts, and high-neck blouses had an everyday ease about them, while fabrics — wool, tweed, silk — were luxe but practical. A smattering of gold embroidery in the form of cranes in flight looked particularly lovely as embellishment on the bust of a pinstriped blazer.

>> To a thudding bass and the raining-down of black rose petals — with Daphne Guinness and Michelle Harper sitting front row — Gareth Pugh presented a dramatically moody Fall 2012 collection in Paris today. Fringe, fur, and an overcast palette of black and gray dominated, but there was a restrained sense of balance at play as well: superfull fur skirts and sculpted-shoulder dresses contrasted with nipped waists or tight corset bodices in sleek black leather.

>> For Fall 2012, Nicola Formichetti revisited Thierry Mugler's "Insect" collection of the '90s. Silhouettes were sculptural with dramatic peplums, pronounced shoulders, and supersize kimono sleeves. A series of black-and-white cutout-and-fringe numbers offered a kind of intricate appeal, but it was the more subtle pieces — some belted coats in particular — that felt most enchanting.

>> Marcel Morongiu focused on a sort of understated sexiness for Fall 2012 Guy Laroche. Though the silhouettes were modest — high-neck blouses, below-the-knee skirts, slouchy pants — the fabrics were not; billowing charmeuse, whisper-light chiffon, and superslick leather all offered a sense of underlying sultriness. Combined with some strategic textural elements — against-the-grain sequins, chunky knits, and high-pile furs — it made for a very intriguing offering indeed. "It’s so easy to take everything off," Morongiu explained. “Being covered and sexy, now, that’s the tricky part."

>> Watery grid prints, shiny jacquards, and a dusky autumnal palette took center stage in Marco Zanini's Fall 2012 offering for Rochas. Silhouettes were buttoned-up, vaguely '60s, and tinged with a bit of librarian quirk — think twee ankle pants, double-breasted coats, printed tights, and Iris Apfel-esque glasses. Bouclé knits and a bit of fur added texture — and kept it all feeling luxe.

>> The See by Chloé girl goes light and breezy for Fall 2012. Fabrics are airy — mesh, silk georgette, "like a continuation of the skin" — and the palette is crisp: navy, gray, white, taupe, black, and cerise. Silhouettes are flowing and draped, with strong lapels, ruching, and billowing capes providing a bit of drama and shape. Suede, knit bouclé, and corduroy keep it all on the cozier side of things. See the whole collection — plus a peek at accessories — here, in the slideshow and in the video below.