>> In a departure from Spring's swirling prints and bohemian mood, Peter Dundas went dark and slick for Fall 2012 Emilio Pucci. "Exotic black. Sober but slashed," the show notes explained, and sure enough there were crocodile skins and velvet devourés (exotic), close-cut sheaths and tuxedo jackets (sober), and plenty of sheer cutouts and thigh-revealing slits (slashed). It was an offering that felt fresh, assured, and — ultimately — sexy.
>> It's not every day that the finale of a fashion show is met with a tearful ovation or an audience that rushes the runway in unrestrained appreciation. As Raf Simons gave his final bow at Jil Sander today, he was met with both.
It was "moving and spontaneous, and certainly not like anything I’ve experienced in 25 years of covering the industry," Cathy Horyn reported of the show's final moments. Federico Marchetti echoed the sentiment saying, "Raf was in tears at Jil Sander, the purest moment in fashion since I started in this industry."
Of course, it's not every day that a designer presents a collection so lovely, elegant, or quite so poignant. It is also not every day that a designer who's done such a remarkable job leaves a successful post to go off into the great unknown.
Regardless, it's true that wherever Simons goes he'll be just fine. Today's ice cream-hued swan song — which some say evoked a modern take on '50s Dior couture — was a triumph, not only in its breathtaking beauty, but in its optimism and promise as well.
>> The show notes for Emporio Armani's Fall 2012 collection promised "fun little touches of pure fantasy," and the collection did not disappoint. Sure, there was a lot going on here — looks were heaped high and deep with chiffon ruffles, fringe, and shimmering polka dots — but the pile-it-on mentality only added to the whimsy. Also adding to the whimsy: the knicker-like Bermuda shorts that — cuffed jauntily at the knee — permeated every single look.
>> Donatella Versace went tough and glam for Fall 2012, offering up a collection filled with Byzantine crosses, chain mail, burnout velvet, studded leather — and plenty of "dark seduction". Silhouettes were short and body-con, fabrics decadent and fiercely embellished, and — adding to the rebellious mood — models wore supersevere mini bangs, à la Rooney Mara.
>> For Fall 2012, Tomas Maier sent out one of his most refined offerings yet. Silhouettes were superbly tailored and expertly appointed, with day dresses, coats, and double-breasted skirt suits cut just-so in black, navy, or burgundy wool. Evening wear, too, was just as disciplined — and just as chic. Gowns came in floor-length velvet or fluted chiffon with shoulder ruffles, raised embroidery, or a delicate sprinkle of sequins.
